88 Coupe 4.9 Swap Thread (Page 54/69)
josef644 AUG 03, 11:39 AM

quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

Sounds alot like my first drive. Its the time when alot of problems come to the surface. Dial her in a bit more and go for that second drive. I'm pretty sure my 3rd drive was the best. Congrats Joe!!

I had a huge constant smile for a week after that first drive! WOO HOO!!!!




Yep I gotta big smile this morning. Drove it about 4 miles in my neighbor hood. Temperature is hovering around 198*. Its 91* outside at 9:30 am. I might need a jacket.


FEW what does BLM mean exactly? I read once where you said it should be around 125. Mine is just 25.

Just found this on the net:


quote
The BLM is a long term adjustment , which is stored pretty much permanently (unless you disconnect power to the ECM), to the fuel delivery calibration that results from the ECM "learning" the values while you are driving around. 128 is the ideal value, because it is the center point of the range 0-255. Above 128, and the ECM is adding fuel to compensate for a lean condition at a particular load and RPM. Below 128, and it represents a correction for a rich condition."




I got fast enough today to see my 3rd gear engagement on my scanner. Gonna try for 4th gear this evening on the County rd .

Done some little stuff to the car and cleaned up the garage some.

Shift cable modification:


Today is a milestone with this car. I rolled it in the garage and started raising it up one year ago tomorrow.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 08-03-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere AUG 03, 12:30 PM
That quote pretty much covers it. The PCM need a bit of driving to fully calibrate the fuel delivery system. The calibrations are stored in the PCM in BLM "cells". There are several different settings depending on RPM's and air flow.. I'll have to double check the service manual tonight for the best explaination. Raydar is WAY more farmiliar with this stuff then I am at the moment. You might want to PM him as he can probably give a better explaination.

I usually look at the fuel intergrator (INT) as a more "real time" look as fuel compensation. This is the fuel trim values based on the stored data in the BLM's as the starting point for fine adjustments. Same as the BLM values, 128 is the mid point for INT. Higher then 128 fuel is being added. Lower = subtracted. This may help also...
http://wiki.3400z24.com/ECM_tuning#BLM_Cells

When you can, you need to get the car out for a real drive so it can properly learn the full range. My 4.9 seems to run best when the battery has not been disconnected recently. That usually clears all this stored data and it takes a little bit to fully rebuild these cells with new data. When new, this PCM was very advanced for its time. These engines and fuel delivery systems were considered to be the "high technology" of the time.

EDIT: Just double checked my scanner. On these auto-x-ray scanners they show up as...

Left & right intergrator. (fuel intergrator or INT)
Left & right block learn. (BLM's)
Block learn cell. (cell number for stored data)

BLM's and INT should stay at 128 until the car reaches "closed loop". In order to reach closed loop coolant temp must be 180 degrees or higher, a 60 second time delay must have passed, and the O2 sensor much show enough movement. Only then with the PCM command closed loop. Then it will start adjusting fuel trim with BLM and INT values.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 08-03-2010).]

josef644 AUG 03, 02:14 PM
Texas has a "de-lemon" law for registering an out of state car for the road. I got this car in Florida. I can title the car in my name with out passing a safety inspection. I have to drive it to an inspection station, to get a form there, to take to the court house for license plates. Drive it down the road with out plates and inspection sticker is illegal. You can't pass inspection with a Service engine soon light on. I have one, but it is just ECM memory, battery has been disconnected one. I have to let it run or drive it for the ECM to clear the code. I have had my Texas Title for 10 months or so.

Contradictions

Looks like I will be doing some 'illegal' driving around dusk or so to get my ECM happy. Back roads here I come. I Want to see how the temperature runs with the car doing 50 MPH anyway.
I found an entry on the scanner this morning that says open loop, and the fuel was rich. I'll have to look for the 'INT" messages

Thanks for the information.

Joe

I thought I would try to get something done on the back porch before it got up to 98*. I covered the head liner with some beachwood fabric. The can says to wait about 2 minuets before putting the pieces together. WRONG. when it's 95* ya gotta hustle. The adhesive looses its 'sticky' faster than when its only 80* or so. I have put these on before, and did one half at a time. About a quarter at a time is what I recommend on real hot days like today.

The two spots are sweat drops and are gone by now I hope. Yes, I see the 'Boo-Boo' right over the drivers door.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 08-03-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere AUG 03, 04:43 PM
The "keep alive memory reset" will not keep the check engine light on. It is a code that is stored but does not light the dash light. If your light is on full time you have another issue. On my scanner I think I have to arrow right to see the rests of the codes. Can't remember right now and don't have any codes to check to verify.

Also, you do not have to wait for the PCM to clear the codes. You can do it right from your scanner. With the exception of the memory reset code that is. I can't clear that one no matter what I try. Try clearing them first and see if your dash light doesn't turn off. If its an issue it will come back on in a few second to a minute depending on the problem. Here is a list of codes for the 4.x engines...
http://www.cadillacforums.c...des-4-x-engines.html
If the #52 is the first one that pops up then your other code must be higher like #53-#98. Those higher number ones tend to be intermittant codes and may have already been fixed.

Come to think of it, Does your light ever turn off? It should come on for a few seconds when the key is turned on. Then it should go off. It will do the same after startup also.

The "loop status" line on the scanner that says "open loop" will change to "closed loop" when the proper conditions have been met. You can pretty much bet it will run rich in open loop because the PCM is working off a preset fuel/timing table at that point.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 08-03-2010).]

josef644 AUG 03, 06:53 PM
I will try the code scroll thing right now . Be right back.

Ok I have a codes 53 and 65 also, E65 - Cruise Servo Position Sensor Signal Problem. I don't know if that is the one that is throwing the light or not. I don't have cruise on my car. But I know the Caddie did.

I unplugged my head temp sensor. My temperature light is out now. I am gonna cut and re connect the two wires and see if that corrects the problem.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 08-03-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere AUG 04, 10:32 AM

quote
Originally posted by josef644:

I will try the code scroll thing right now . Be right back.

Ok I have a codes 53 and 65 also, E65 - Cruise Servo Position Sensor Signal Problem. I don't know if that is the one that is throwing the light or not. I don't have cruise on my car. But I know the Caddie did.

I unplugged my head temp sensor. My temperature light is out now. I am gonna cut and re connect the two wires and see if that corrects the problem.




I'm not sure if the cruise code will keep the light on either. I've never had cruise with mine. Chip programming turned off the codes for cruise entirely. Looking at the diagrams here you may be able to jumper PCM pins B3 & B4 to fool the PCM into thinking the servo is fine. I can't be positive so you may want to check with some people that have solved this problem before trying.

#53 will deffinately set the light. Once the signal is reconnected this code should move to memory turning off the light. Try clearing it and see if it comes back. If it does you have an issue with either the distributor connector or one of those 5 wires at the PCM. If it doesn't come back you probably already fixed it. Probably just a loose wire if anything.

Head temp sensor could be wired backwards. Sounds like your thinking that also. When the temp is high enough it should ground out D3 of the c500 lighting the dash light. If you have done the temp gauge/light fix listed on fierosails.com D3 may or may not be the right pin depending on how you did the fix. When I did mine I switched C2 & D3 at the C500, then switched the 2 pins at the gauge cluster. If you switched at the sender instead of the c500 yours may be slightly different.

Found the other codes!! One step closer Joe.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 08-04-2010).]

josef644 AUG 04, 11:19 AM
Oops, I wrote 53, it was supposed to be E52. So just forget the 53. I know all about the 52. I lost it once after I let the car idle for about 20 minutes in the garage.

When I did my temperature gauge pegging fix I did it at the ingition switch connector, and the speedo connector as described by "TinMan" at the Michigan Fiero Club.

One year ago today my 88 Coupe was pushed into the garage to start on its engine swap. Today I can back it out under its own power.

5:00pm and it's 104* on my back porch, no idea what the heat index is

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 08-04-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere AUG 04, 07:57 PM
According to the service manual E65 should NOT set a light. Are you sure there are no other codes?

Per the service manual regarding E65 specifically...

Circuit Description:
Code E65 will detect a cruise control servo position sensor shorted to ground. The cruise position sensor is a variable inductance sensor whose inductance changes with servo position. Code E65sets when the PCM detects a low voltage indicating a short to ground in the cruise servo position sensor circuit.

Test Conditions:
Tested continuously.

Failure Condition:
Servo position 6.3% or less for 1 second. (I'm guessing compared to VSS signal)

Actions taken:
Disable cuise control. No service telltale.

If you need I can scan these 2 pages in tomorrow for you to look at yourself. There is a long diagnostic checklist but they are a PITA to read because we don't use the onboard scanning system. I've had some practice so I can figure it out. In a fiero wihtout cruise we have to check PCM B3 & B4 with a multimeter. B4 should provide the 5V signal and B3 accepts it (minus changes from servo coil for cars with cruise).

To me it sounds like the PCM is looking for a 5V signal at those wires (B3 & B4). Should be able to loop these wires together and eliminate your code. The PCM is assuming there is a short to ground because it is not seeing voltage on B3.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 08-04-2010).]

josef644 AUG 04, 08:09 PM
B3 and B4 will do. No I don't need the scan yet. I tried to arrow over some more and those were the only two codes displsped.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 08-04-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere AUG 04, 08:25 PM
Excellant. Well this should eliminate your E65. E52 will go away on its own. If your light is still on you may want to double check the wiring for the SES light. PCM A10 should connect to C203 pin "C". The PCM grounds A10 to turn on the light. If its grounded anywhere else your light wont turn off. Good luck Joe. Hopefully you get this sorted soon so you can enjoy your car. Later.

Oh. I was wrong about E53. Apparently that won't set a light either. Not that it matters much for you but I wanted to correct that anyway. I'm going to scan the error code page in tomorrow. There is a bunch of good info on it.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 08-04-2010).]