 
     |
| JohnWPB 1986 GT Fastback worklog (Page 53/71) |
|
olejoedad
|
MAR 02, 02:20 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by JohnWPB:
|
|
To add some information....
1999 Buick Ultra...
The last seven of the VIN on a 3800 S2 is on the pad the outboard starter bolt threads into.[This message has been edited by olejoedad (edited 03-02-2016).]
|
|
|
JohnWPB
|
MAR 02, 05:40 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by lateFormula:
I would have sanded off all of the ejector marks: |
|
You are 100% correct, and if I had it to do over I would have. I honestly never thought of it before hand. Mark that down as a tip to future swappers that are also detail oriented.
EDIT: Gee... thanks alot! Now I keep thinking about the blemishes on the SC all afternoon now.....[This message has been edited by JohnWPB (edited 03-02-2016).]
|
|
|
|
JohnWPB
|
MAR 02, 05:41 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by olejoedad:
1999 Buick Ultra...
The last seven of the VIN on a 3800 S2 is on the pad the outboard starter bolt threads into.
|
|
This is a Series III engine out of a 2004 Grand Prix GTP. Any tips and hints for this one?
|
|
|
|
JohnWPB
|
MAR 02, 06:07 PM
|
|
Today's project was to dissemble the throttle body, and get the parts ready for paint. I took a few pictures, and put everything pertaining to it in a labeled zip-lock, but I am still hoping that I can put it back together when I am done! The arm on the cable connector, and the springs and all can go in many positions.
 [This message has been edited by JohnWPB (edited 03-02-2016).]
|
|
|
|
olejoedad
|
MAR 02, 06:35 PM
|
|
|
I would check the same area. I don't have a Series III block sitting here....
|
|
|
JohnWPB
|
MAR 03, 11:04 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by Vernon8360:
That's really nice. Did you use a special kind of brush? |
|
Yes, it is a special brush. The only place that carries it are Pet Smart Outlet centers (Not the stand alone stores). Presently, rumor has it that Old Navy is currently in litigation to sell them in the near future. The brush has a metric adapter wide angle magnetic conversion plate (MAWAMCP) on the rear of the brush that allows for a maximum of -10 PSI. Thus, It is ill advised to even attempt to use this particular brush at, above, or even below seal level.[This message has been edited by JohnWPB (edited 03-12-2016).]
|
|
|
|
JohnWPB
|
MAR 07, 09:24 PM
|
|
I found a local Mom and Pop paint supply store over the weekend, Terry's Auto Supply. I ordered the Vista Blue I am using from eBay, as I did not know of a local spot yet. Today I stopped by Terry's and purchased a quart of silver for the engine block and transmission. I also got a pint of black for all the pulleys, brackets, mounts, screws, bolts and such. Both are base coat, and need to have clear applied over them. Speaking with them at the paint shop, he says that the base then clear is far more durable than the single stage / all in one.
Even with this quart and a half purchase, they took lots of time to go over some tips and such with me, and asked me if I needed any paint filters, stirring sticks ect, I said that I did. He went in the back, and brought out a decent size box with about 50 paint stirrers, and around 50 filters as well. I reached in and took a few sticks, and a couple filters. He looked at me and said no, the WHOLE BOX is yours to take. Wow! I now have a lifetime supply of paint sticks and filters 
Today I painted the valve covers in the Vista Blue body color. These are the last parts (Super Charger and valve covers) that will be body color. Over the coming days / weeks I will be taking off all the pulleys, brackets, mounts and such to paint black. After those are all off, painted and done, the engine block will be stripped enough to finally paint and clear it. I decided to go with base and clear, as mentioned above, for durability, but also have been told that this smooth surface will make it MUCH easier to keep the engine clean for car shows
Here are the valve covers, I am happy with the way they turned out:
(I am not sure if I am going to leave the filler neck the way it is, or do it in black when I get the gun loaded to do the other parts)
 [This message has been edited by JohnWPB (edited 03-07-2016).]
|
|
|
|
JohnWPB
|
MAR 07, 10:11 PM
|
|
Just some information for people in the future doing a 3800 swap.
I just purchased a, AC Delco fuel pump kit on eBay for $36. I read about this fuel pump in AutoMarshall's thread, (Thank you! Marshall)
The part numbers are:
- AC Delco Part Number: EP381
- GM Part Number: 25163473
This is a direct swap for the Fiero fuel pump, and no modification is needed in the Fiero tank. This pump is from vehicles such as the Silverado with a 5.7 liter engine. Thus, PLENTY of fuel flow for a 3.8
|
|
|
|
sardonyx247
|
MAR 08, 03:25 AM
|
|
just to say, you just bought a Chinese fuel pump, the way to tell old Delco parts and Chinese crap is old stuff is AC-Delco new crap is ACDelco, Just FYI.
But that is a higher PSI/flow pump anyway. BTW I might have figured out your old problem.... but an engine swap is one way to fix it, oh wait it won't really.
|
|
|
JohnWPB
|
MAR 08, 06:57 AM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by sardonyx247:
just to say, you just bought a Chinese fuel pump, the way to tell old Delco parts and Chinese crap is old stuff is AC-Delco new crap is ACDelco, Just FYI.
But that is a higher PSI/flow pump anyway. BTW I might have figured out your old problem.... but an engine swap is one way to fix it, oh wait it won't really. |
|
Wow, having a bad day or something  Just about all of the AC Delco parts are made in China now, unfortunately. Heck, a lot of the new Craftsman tools are as well now. I had a thread about the engine problems and such. A lot of people came up with good ideas, but I don't remember anyone else saying they knew what it could be, but keeping it to themselves.
|
|
|
|