NS F355 Project (Page 50/73)
Yarmouth Fiero SEP 30, 08:01 AM
You're asking a former marine engineer and now shipbuilder what its like in uncharted waters? I don't know anything else but uncharted waters

To be honest, I'll be glad when the design work is done and I can start putting metal back on the chassis. The scrap pile is almost as big as the chassis itself now.

My other shop this morning.



It will eventually be another one of these.

[This message has been edited by Yarmouth Fiero (edited 09-30-2014).]

Bloozberry SEP 30, 09:26 AM
What is that back there? Theodore Tug?
Yarmouth Fiero SEP 30, 09:39 AM
It's this.....



Not this.......



Yarmouth Fiero OCT 03, 09:03 PM
I decided to take an evening away from the rear suspension and bolt my brake rotors together. I purchased the bolt kit from Wilwood which are 1/4 - 28 and they recommend a torque of 85 in-lbs with lubrication. The bolts are 316 stainless steel and the rotor hats are aluminum so I decided to use Tef Gel which is a product we use alot of in the shipbuilding world when using stainless steel fasteners on aluminum vessels. It's a lubricant, anti galling/ antiseize compound that also reduces corrosion between dissimilar metals.





I torqued in two stages using a diagonal pattern and then proceeded to lock the bolts together as recommended by Wilwood. They recommend using 0.032" stainless steel locking wire which I happen to have on hand.



I stopped by to visit Blooz this week and he loaned me a proper set of wire twisting pliers and they worked amazing to produce a nice tight even twist. I definitely have to invest in a pair of these.



When it was all done, it turned out pretty good and it certainly adds a sophisticated look to the brake rotors. Shame it will all be facing inside where it can't be seen.

Bloozberry OCT 03, 09:17 PM
Nice job on the lock wire. Those rotors are going to be stunning peeking through your wheel spokes.
Yarmouth Fiero OCT 03, 09:37 PM
Thanks Blooz. And thanks for the use of the pliers. They are very easy to use. There is a new Snap-On truck that comes to the yard once a week. I may have to start a shopping list of odd yet interesting tools to add to my shop.
Yarmouth Fiero OCT 08, 09:10 PM
Still thinking a longitudinal SBC with Porsche / Audi gearbox installation and throwing ideas on the screen. Here is a belt drive using 62mm wide Gates Poly Chain GT Carbon belts rated at 325 hp at 5500 rpm. Gates has an amazing belt drive design program that allows you to enter a wide variety of design constraints and it offers suggestions for parts from their extensive catalogue.

Thoughts and comments please.

Boogaloo OCT 08, 11:34 PM
What kind if belt or chain do you intend to use for the wheels?.
Bloozberry OCT 09, 07:03 AM
It's an interesting concept, but I don't think it will work.

In order to keep tension on the belt, you'd need to solidly mount the belt gears to the chassis through bearing blocks as you've sort of shown. But that would leave a rigid stub shaft from the gear to the inboard half of the outer CV joint. By doing so, the outboard half of the outer CV joint (attached to the wheel) would be rendered a single, straight pivot point. It can't work that way since the axle shaft has to change not only in angle and length, but in height too.

To make the design work, you'd need to move the two CV joints onto a single shaft connected to the wheel and have the drive belt connected directly to the transmission output at one end, and the inboard half of the inner CV joint at the other end. Does that make sense?
Yarmouth Fiero OCT 09, 07:16 AM
It makes perfect sense Blooz. What I am looking at is having the stubs fitted with a tri-pot on the gearbox end and the driven gear end with a CV joint at the wheel. This should allow the engine/ gear to rock on soft mounts and the output shaft to act as the usual drive shaft. Its going to be short so I still have to look at the range of motion. Also, as you can see I don't have a real gearbox drawn so it may be narrower than I have it, allowing for longer shafts. At this point, its just a conceptual drawing so I can run it through the first iteration and see if I can transmit that much power at max rpm. There are many things to consider and refine for sure.

Here is the suggested belt for that hp and rpm. The version I am looking at is 62mm wide.



Edit: for additional info.

[This message has been edited by Yarmouth Fiero (edited 10-09-2014).]