LSJ Supercharged Ecotec Swap (Page 5/45)
FierociousGT JUN 19, 01:27 PM
Just got off the phone Roger, here is his site:
http://www.noidearecords.com/thelinsells/
ccfiero350 JUN 20, 12:56 AM
I'm glad Roger has his site up. I've bought his parts and they are top notch.

I've been to an x-cross in Houston and a two day drivers education school at Texas World Speedway since the last time I updated this thread.


I updated the four banger with adco bars fore & aft, brake job and new koni shocks up front and took it racing. I'll post that stuff on another thread when I get the photos back. I'm keeping notes as the car progresses into a full blown track car and will post my opinions on relative merit of the mods performed.

I got the remaining cobolt axles finally.
This images is larger than 102400 bytes. Click to view.
The left (yellow tag) and right (green tag) axles are the same length.

The intermediate shaft stub details. I think this is the same for the 6 speed.


I mocked up the suspension with the cobolt axles and fiero hubs and centered the engine.


This view shows Roger Thelin's torque strut mount plate on the ecotec and the top part of the headers mounted.

The cobolt's track is about an inch narrower the the fiero so there is about 1/2" of slop that each cup will take up. The outboard CV joint does not have the dust shield the fiero ones do but I can live with it.

I spent the entire time on the recipient host chassis prepairing for the track then this engine/cradle in the last three weeks so progress will be slow for the next few weeks as time allows.

Thanks for every bodies comments.


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yellow 88 GT, not stock
white 88 notchie, 4 banger

wftb JUN 20, 02:08 AM
looks like a simple solution to everyones 6 speed axle problems .also it means i could easily adapt an f35 to my 2.2 setup .great work ,your pictures are awesome .
Fosgatecavy98 JUN 21, 05:45 PM

Not the thread jack but this is the thread that I got the most responses from

I got the alternator to turn on, I orginally tested it using 4 1.5v batteries and then after it turned on,
I got a little device that converts 12volts into a few different volt setttings, not 5 volts tho, but 4.5 turns it on.
The problem: Im not sure how many amps I am getting out of it. It seems slow to respond. It dips under 13 volts when
I turn the fan on or hit the lights up. With the flashers on it goes between 13.3 and 13.8. Charges at 13.75 according to Megasquirt.
Anybody else have any comments on that?
AP2k JUN 21, 06:00 PM

quote
Originally posted by Fosgatecavy98:


Not the thread jack but this is the thread that I got the most responses from

I got the alternator to turn on, I orginally tested it using 4 1.5v batteries and then after it turned on,
I got a little device that converts 12volts into a few different volt setttings, not 5 volts tho, but 4.5 turns it on.
The problem: Im not sure how many amps I am getting out of it. It seems slow to respond. It dips under 13 volts when
I turn the fan on or hit the lights up. With the flashers on it goes between 13.3 and 13.8. Charges at 13.75 according to Megasquirt.
Anybody else have any comments on that?



Maybe the DC signal is freaking the regulator controls out? You said that it was suppposed to see a pulse-width modulated signal btween 15-87% duty cycle, correct? If you feed it pure DC, it may not know how to handle a 100% duty cycle signal and might be reverting to some failsafe power output.

556 timers are your friend.

[This message has been edited by AP2k (edited 06-21-2007).]

Fosgatecavy98 JUN 21, 10:33 PM

quote
Originally posted by AP2k:


Maybe the DC signal is freaking the regulator controls out? You said that it was suppposed to see a pulse-width modulated signal btween 15-87% duty cycle, correct? If you feed it pure DC, it may not know how to handle a 100% duty cycle signal and might be reverting to some failsafe power output.

556 timers are your friend.




There are 3 wires to the alternator, 1 goes to the battery
wire A: is the alternator turn on which requires 5 volts, thats what I have 4.5 going to and its turned on.
wire B: looks for the wave signal, I have nothing hooked to that.
ccfiero350 JUN 21, 11:19 PM
The Pin 1(orange for the L61) If held at 5V will default the generator to 13.8V. It thinks your shorted to B+, it'll run your car and charge your battery but it not going to give you all it's got.

There is a lot going on between the BCM (body control module) and ECM (engine control module). The BCM monitors the battery and controls the alternator unless the ECM overides for

engine cooling fans are on high speed
high fuel demand
calc ambient air temp is less then 32 Deg F.

There could be a very cool little black box if somebodies good with PWM circuits.

Here's the goods to make the generator do its thing all the way.

The L-termanal control signal is a 5 Volt pulse with modulated (PWM) signal of 128Hz with a duty cycle of 0-100%. Normal duty cycle is 5-95%. The either extremes are for diagnostics purposes.

The following table shows command duty cycle and output voltage of generator.
0%______0V
10%_____11V
20%_____11.56V
30%_____12.12V
40%_____12.68V
50%_____13.25V
60%_____13.81V
70%_____14.37V
80%_____14.94V
90%_____15.5V
100%____13.8V

As you can see you could make a Dail-O-Voltage box with this data, if your real good with some programing you can combine timers with inputs so you boost idle voltage when the a/c comes on or just after it cranks for 20 seconds like the factory does.

Some stand alone efi controllors have programable PWM outputs just for stuff like this.

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yellow 88 GT, not stock
white 88 notchie, 4 banger

Ravant JUN 22, 02:41 AM
Not gonna be very helpful here, but I am going to say, congrats on getting a hold of this powertrain. It's the same swap I'm hoping to complete down the line, but every time I attempt to get my hands on a parts car, something comes up on the seller's end to where I can't seem to get my hands on one. Good luck with the swap.

Are you planning on installing GM's stage 2 upgrade kit into this motor? Or are you going to leave it at the stock 205 hp/200 tq rating?

Also - what is the significance of the lack of the outboard CV-joint dust shield? Will that leave a drop in overall reliability? Or is it an inconsequential little thing?

[This message has been edited by Ravant (edited 06-22-2007).]

ccfiero350 JUN 22, 10:51 AM
I found this drop out on www.used-parts.com but if I were to do it again using the stock ECU/BCU & harness I would get the whole car and pull the parts myself.

If you buy on the internet, you may get something shipped from another dismantler then the one you sent your money to. Warrenty issuse are PITA! These are parts from wrecked cars after all. I'm still waiting on the correct replacement transmission 2 months later. The sent me an F23 rather then the F35. (long story)

On engine upgrades, Yes please! The intended purpose of the car is to take it to the track a lot. After seeing a stock SS cobolt at a x-cross event I can see the need for more rpm's or a steaper gear. In 2nd he would hit the rev limiter and in 3rd it sounded like it was just under the sweat spot. The stage 2 & 3 mods adds power were it's needed. I promised myself I would get an award with engine upgrades after I get the engine mounted.

The CV dust shield, IMO is to keep the slurry mix from packing behind the sealed bearing. I have not replaced a rear hub bearing yet and I think it would come with a new seal. I have asked for just the seal before and there were none listed. The pair that I have removed were rotted out and did seal anything. There is a drain slot cast into back of the knuckle. I'm going to mask off and paint the back of the bearing and knuckle, grease it and call it done.

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yellow 88 GT, not stock
white 88 notchie, 4 banger

Ravant JUN 22, 01:58 PM

quote
Originally posted by ccfiero350:
but if I were to do it again using the stock ECU/BCU & harness I would get the whole car and pull the parts myself.



That's exactly what I've been trying to do. Even moreso because I'm going to be going from a 3-speed auto to the 5-speed manual (F35).