Wow... I'm literally speechless... Thats beautiful!!

I can't wait to see the progress on this build.


*Edited to add...

[This message has been edited by HC (edited 12-23-2007).]

The owner should contact Amida and see if he can make an interior or dash similar in style - wow, that's nice.

as far as making the car accurate, that's how I started out with mine but it wasn't too long before i gave up the idea. i saw on the kitcar forum that some guys even did a "flat floor" conversion on their cars (cut out the console & moved the gas tank to make the floor flat like the original cars). No matter what you do, it always seems like there will be some major factor you can't replicate and you'll always see it - shifter, steering wheel, quarter windows, floor, wiper arms, etc. Every time you open the rear hatch, you'll never see a ferrari powerplant. Even if you do replicate all the cosmetics, it will still Never be a ferrari.

My conclusion is that I simply built the car the way that made me happy rather than fight a losing battle and even keep stuff I didn't like just to be accurate. (that's why i'd build up the fenders and change the headlights to fixed if it was my car ).

[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 12-23-2007).]

quote Originally posted by Austrian Import: You wouldn't want to do the gas tank accurate. It's in the front of the car, and as it empties the front end would become lighter...

The central gas tank is one of the things I really like about Fieros, and I agree I wouldn't change that.

quote Originally posted by Austrian Import: ...Also the original Miura (before the "S") used 4 racing carburators, that would flood at a red light, causing the engine bay to catch fire. - Sometimes it's worth it to improvise a bit from the original...

One way to have an original look with stuff like that is to sneak a little technology in. You can convert the original carbs into throttle bodies for a hidden EFI system A lot of work and a lot of money, but a person trying to replicate an original exotic is going to spend large amounts of those two anyway.

quote Originally posted by PaulJK: ...as far as making the car accurate, that's how I started out with mine but it wasn't too long before i gave up the idea. i saw on the kitcar forum that some guys even did a "flat floor" conversion on their cars (cut out the console & moved the gas tank to make the floor flat like the original cars). No matter what you do, it always seems like there will be some major factor you can't replicate and you'll always see it - shifter, steering wheel, quarter windows, floor, wiper arms, etc. Every time you open the rear hatch, you'll never see a ferrari powerplant. Even if you do replicate all the cosmetics, it will still Never be a ferrari. My conclusion is that I simply built the car the way that made me happy rather than fight a losing battle and even keep stuff I didn't like just to be accurate...

What he said. Make it YOUR car. That way when someone wonders why you built a replica instead of just purchasing an original you can say the original was close but not quite...


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[This message has been edited by toddshotrods (edited 12-23-2007).]

We're starting to do some of the steel work to stiffen the modified Fiero chassis & to mount the new body to.

The 1st thing we needed to find out is what the ride height was going to be when it's all put back together.

After we originally stripped the Fiero body off of the donor chassis, we measured a few places on the chassis to determine how much the chassis raised up when we removed the engine. We found that the rear of the chassis raised up about 1.5" & the front went up .5" once the engine was removed. We figure that the LS2 & the 6 speed that will be going into the car, when we're done with the body, will bring the chassis back down about the same amount as removing the original engine raised it.

So what we did was to put the car on our solid ramp drive on lift. Then using tie down ratchet straps & a couple of 4x4's we pulled the car down to simulate the ride height based on the following.

In the front the total amount we pulled it down was 4.25". Calculated as follows, the drop spindles will give us 2", the added weight when the car is finally put together will give us 1" & the coil-over as it currently is adjusted has about 1.25" that we can adjust it down.

In the rear the total amount we pulled it down was 3.625". Calculated as follows, the added weight when the car is finally put together will give us 1.5" & the coil-over as it currently is adjusted has about 1.125" that we can adjust it down. We also figure to pick up 1" by raising the strut tower or putting on a 10" coil-over

This is how is was sitting before.......



These pics represent the ride height as we now have it calculated.









I'll show you pics of the steel work as we go.

Archie

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