NS F355 Project (Page 49/73)
fieroguru SEP 28, 08:34 AM
Another option would be switching to the 88 rear uprights (you need to mod the cradle anyway). I think they place the mounting of the strut 1/4" or higher than the 84-87's which might be enough and they angle the struts in further which might gain you the needed frame rail clearance as well. I am sure between Blooze and your drawings, you can confirm how much of a difference there is between the two.

The reason I think there is a difference is I ran the same wheels/tires on an 86 and 88 and the 88 had slightly more vertical clearance between the lower spring perch on the strut and the tire. However, if you are running 17" wheels, there isn't enough clearance (shy about 1/4") for a 17" wheel to pass over the strut mounting tabs on the strut when attached to the 88 rear upright.
Yarmouth Fiero SEP 28, 09:56 AM
Thanks again Fieroguru. I had considered going completely with 88 suspension but never took the idea too far. In the back, I am running 18" wheels.

I added the camber plate to my drawing and I think I am getting close. I may have to still drop the spring a little more and sacrifice my strut travel if I can't lower the entire strut relative to the spindle. I will probably have to shorten the threaded end of the strut rod too as its going to be very close to the 355 rear deck height.

Here is a picture showing the strut and camber plate position in relation to the stock strut tower.



Here are a couple pictures showing the top of the strut in relation to the proposed 355 Rear deck. I clearly have a little more fine tuning to get it all to fit just right. There is also the matter of the 355 rear quarters having a bulge on top that actually forms the base for the coupe body work . On the 355 spider, it will form a well for the soft top to be stored so I may have to liberate some of that space for my strut camber plate. See the last photo.









Edit: to add last picture for reference

[This message has been edited by Yarmouth Fiero (edited 09-28-2014).]

355Fiero SEP 29, 03:33 PM
Graham;

Remember that you will be adding in a 1" or so adaptor to the join between the strut and the hub to get the 4" width increase where your strut only went out 3" tops. This will push the strut lower end inward by that 1" which then gives you more room between the axle boot and the bottom of the strut. You can then even possibly lower the strut down maybe a 1/2" or so to get a bit more travel and still clear the boot. If you add the spacer in on your drawing, you should be able to see the interference possibilities with the new location.

Cheers
Don
Yarmouth Fiero SEP 29, 03:56 PM
Thanks Don. That was my plan to use the spacer at the spindle although now that I have the strut drawn exactly as I purchased, my 3D model is showing me enough clearance between the strut and the upper frame rail. I think because of the offset on my wheels, perhaps the suspension will only move outward 3 1/2" even though my track increase is 4". Does this make sense?

[This message has been edited by Yarmouth Fiero (edited 09-29-2014).]

355Fiero SEP 29, 06:31 PM
Yes it does Graham;

It will be interesting to see how everything actually comes together on the car. You will be very close on your upper strut placement to have the clearance under the rear clip as well. That strut really is quite a bit longer on the top that the oem?

Cheers
Don
Yarmouth Fiero SEP 29, 06:38 PM
I am planning to stop by and see Blooz on Wednesday to get some measurements of the rear clip. I may even bring his original rear clip home to use while mocking up my rear suspension. I can see that getting at the camber plate is going to be a nightmare once the body work is fitted for good.
Yarmouth Fiero SEP 29, 08:43 PM
Here are a few pictures of the driverside rear wheel mocked up at the desired track width with the strut in place. Its going to be very close to the desired strut height once the spring is compressed another 2 1/2". Once I have added the rear quarter body work measurements, I'll have a better idea if the camber plate is going to fit under the body work.
Bloozberry SEP 29, 10:07 PM
You can mock up your system more easily by removing the springs altogether.

How much space do you have between the top of the tire and the underside of the upper frame rail? I had to notch my upper rail to get the travel I wanted.
Yarmouth Fiero SEP 29, 10:49 PM
I am planning on replacing the springs with the 9 1/2" of 3" dia plastic pipe for mocking up the suspension any further Blooz.

With regard to notching the upper frame rail, I will be doing the same notch as you since our wheel / tire set up is almost identical. There is not enough room at the moment once you factor in the sweep of the suspension and final camber settings. I was going to wait until after I build the new strut towers before notching because at the moment, there is not much holding the rear frames together.





I may run my notch all the way through to the inside edge of the upper frame rail just to ensure I have clearance for the strut when things start bouncing around.

[This message has been edited by Yarmouth Fiero (edited 09-29-2014).]

Bloozberry SEP 30, 07:54 AM
Now you're truly neck-deep into the nitty-gritty... the heavy duty stuff that only real custom fabricators attempt and pull off. How does it feel to be sailing uncharted waters?