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| Northstar rebuild: Will style (Page 48/119) |
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Will
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MAY 14, 08:53 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by Scoobysruvenge:
I get where you are going with the rod bolt stretch measurement, but I have some questions, if you are going by stretch measurements alone then how can you properly load the bearing? What I mean is that the rod and cap need a specific torque range to ensure that the hole stays round, too much torque and the journal becomes egg shaped horizontally and not enough the journal becomes egg shaped vertically. How did you come up with the stretch measurement?
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I know it's right because *I* measured it. The exact procedures the shop uses are not always relevant when you go back and double-check what they did. I measured the bearing ID's at the proper bolt stretch and measured the journals and figured clearances myself. The clearances came out a little bit on the wide side, but nothing worth halting the build for another year to get perfect. No matter how perfect you want it to be, at some point you just have to build the damn thing.
If the shop sends me parts that aren't to spec, that's their fault. If I bolt those parts together into an engine that can't do anything but blow up, that would be *MY* fault. Any ignorance of whether the part is in spec or out is willful.
The shop I used sets up the Enfantis Brothers' 2JZ-GTE Supra engines. That's 1600+ HP from a factory 300 HP engine. He knows his Shtuff. He figured out that they could more than quadruple the life of their main bearings by following a torque procedure with the engine mount brackets...[This message has been edited by Will (edited 05-14-2009).]
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Will
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MAY 14, 05:09 PM
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Cleaning the heads up right now. I ran them both through the dishwasher twice, but that never gets everything. Also, because the length of the heads is only a tiny bit shorter than the inside of the dishwasher, it does a lousy job cleaning the ends. I had to clean those by hand... been through 4 scotch brite pads. Scrub, scrub.
Head gaskets are here. They look pretty badass. Head studs are also here. Alan Johnson recommended installing studs at 70 ftlbs, so I'll do that. I should be able to screw the heads on this afternoon, then clean the cams/lifters and build the valvetrain tonight. If I can get it together tonight, I should be able to install tomorrow. I won't have time for the 3.94 gears this time around. I'll install them when I install a Tilton clutch, after I get back from Iraq.
Accusump and EPC valve are here, and I already had the oil/coolant heat exchanger.
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sanderson
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MAY 14, 08:29 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Will:
Head studs are also here. Alan Johnson recommended installing studs at 70 ftlbs, so I'll do that. I should be able to screw the heads on this afternoon, then clean the cams/lifters and build the valvetrain tonight.
Accusump and EPC valve are here, and I already had the oil/coolant heat exchanger. |
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Will,
This sounds like he's saying to torque the studs into the block before installing heads. That would be strange.
Here's a quote from ARP site.
"Studs also provide more accurate and consistent torque loading. Here's why. When you use bolts to secure the head, the fastener is actually being "twisted" while it's being torqued to the proper reading. Accordingly, the bolt is reacting to two different forces simultaneously. A stud should be installed in a "relaxed" mode - never crank it in tightly using a jammed nut.
If everything is right, the stud should be installed finger tight. Then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch only on the vertical axis. Remember, an undercut shorter stud will have a rate similar to a longer, standard shank stud. This provides a more even clamping force on the head. Because the head gasket will compress upon initial torquing, make sure studs and bolts are re-torqued after the engine has been run."[This message has been edited by sanderson (edited 05-14-2009).]
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Will
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MAY 14, 09:30 PM
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Obviously the only torque spec involved in installing a head stud is on the nut...
Also, the only legit way to turn the stud is with a 3/16" socket in the top, which won't even dream of taking 70 ftlbs.
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Will
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MAY 14, 11:43 PM
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Got the heads torqued on. Valvetrain will wait till tomorrow.
Engine moved its first air as I turned the crank over to make sure everything was still free. I was wondering if the domes and chambers were 100% compatible. The distance from the cylinder wall to the dome was very close to the distance from the fire ring mark on the head to the edge of the chamber.
It turns over so everything is good.
Obviously, since the valvetrain's not installed and all the valves were closed, air was exchanged through the spark plug hole. While not exactly the way things should run in the finished product, it did move air.
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Will
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MAY 15, 01:42 PM
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Won't get the engine in the car this weekend. Other time pressures are being applied (fly out to CA on Sunday for 3 weeks of Navy training, followed by a week in NM). I'll get the valvetrain built, timing drive assembled and front and cam covers installed tonight... maybe even the oil pan. It would be nice to get the engine buttoned up.
However, I won't get it in the car this weekend. I have a few other things I need to fix tomorrow and I'm getting a little burned out on this. I'll be back on the east coast for two weeks in the middle of June and will get it back on the road then.
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Will
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MAY 15, 01:46 PM
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A far as spark plugs go, I'm thinking of going 1-2 ranges colder than stock, due to the compression. Anybody know how I look up what plug that is?
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Nashco
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MAY 19, 06:13 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Will:
A far as spark plugs go, I'm thinking of going 1-2 ranges colder than stock, due to the compression. Anybody know how I look up what plug that is? |
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I like NGKs, so I'll give you their info:
http://www.ngksparkplugs.co...ch/partnumberkey.pdf
I looked up plugs for a '95 STS and NGK says to use a TR55GP (platinum) or TR55IX (iridium). Doing a search on Rock Auto's site for NGK part number "TR*" it looks like you can go a bit colder (assume 55 is 5.5?) to a TR6IX (or TR6GP) or TR7IX to go one or two ranges colder, respectively. It might be worth your while to get one stock type (TR55xx) or go to a store that has them in stock to compare the two and make sure they are duplicates except for the electrode insulation.
Most of the companies have a similar part number guide if you prefer another brand.
Bryce
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ALLTRBO
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MAY 19, 06:40 PM
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This may be of some use, there are more charts than the one linked (I found this to cross-reference my 750 Turbo's plugs).
http://www.clubplug.net/denso_ngk.html
P.S. Will is in CA now as mentioned, he probably won't be posting here much for a few weeks, though he does have internet access. *shrug*
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Will
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MAY 23, 12:42 AM
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Cool. Thanks both of you.
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