Looking good Joe. The tips look great - we need a sound clip!
Pat
I will put one up tomorrow after I finish playing with the rear brakes and trying to stop that danged leak:
I am gonna try to use a mirror morning to see where exactly the leak is at before I drain it out again. I am not sure if it is the coolant hose leaking, or the heater return hose or the nipple weld has let loose.
I have e mailed the injector bunch inquiring about a set of Bosche type III's for my engine. I want to get those coming pretty soon, My idle has smoothed out quite a bit after I have about 30 minuets on the engine now.
Pat what hose did you use for the passenger side to the water pump? Was yours an 88 V6 car or 88 4 clyl car? I have not been able to find a listing for a new 88 4 cyl coolant pipe to water pump hose.
Just went out with a small mirror and a flash light. It looks to me to be leaking from the heater return hose. I am gonna put a new on tomorrow.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-23-2010).]
josef644
JUN 24, 12:18 PM
I tried to put new pads in the drivers side caliper this morning. They are about 1/16" to thick. I can get the old outboard pad to go in. It is almost as thick as the new one. There is about 1/16" difference, enough for the old one to work. I loosened up the caliper bridge bolts a bit, inserted the new outboard pads, then tightened them back down. That wheel was then locked up. No turnie turnie turn at all !! Took out the new outer, inserted the old outer pad tightened it back down and all is well again in the land of Oz. Removed Caliper and tried to get the piston to go in a bit more. Ain't happening. Just gave up !
I had been wanting to attach the AC lines from the chassis to the AC compressor so there is no contamination the lines. The fuel fill hoses have been modified and were right on top of the connector there. I loosened the filler hoses and put the AC hoses on the connector. And of course there was a fight to get the fuel hoses back on the fuel filler pipe ends. Nothing has been smooth and easy today
Installed the new vacuum modulator hose I picked up this morning. While putting that on the car I found a transmission cooler line leak. Very small, but there and needing attention.
I stopped and closed up the shop. You know I have good AC in the house !!
I'll post a video this afternoon so you can heat the exhaust tone. I want to start it up so I can look for the heater hose leak while the coolant is under pressure and hot. Maybe I can discover that evil Gremlin living in my Coupe.
I purchased a set of the Bosch III's for my 4.9 They were listed as replacements for the Caddie 4.5 and 4.9's. $80.00 delivered. Here is the application guide from their listing:
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-24-2010).]
Fieroseverywhere
JUN 24, 02:21 PM
Were those the rear calipers you had the pad problem on? Just wanted to be sure you knew the pistons twist in. Unlike the front they can't be compressed back in. Its an ebrake thing.
josef644
JUN 24, 02:42 PM
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:
Were those the rear calipers you had the pad problem on? Just wanted to be sure you knew the pistons twist in. Unlike the front they can't be compressed back in. Its an ebrake thing.
Yep I know. They are turned all the way in. I have checked it.
Here is the video and audio clip The engine doesn't start until about 10 seconds in the clip:
I'll do another one after I switch out the injectors next week.
I went back out and looked at the caliper one more time. I removed the parking brake lever from it. I used a wrench to turn the actuator bolt in the retraction direction. After a few turns I bumped the caliper with my hand, then used a screw driver that fit between the piston and the new brake pad, inboard. She moved about 1/16" The new outboard pad dropped right in. Go figure !!! Going back out now to re attach the parking brake lever.
All's well on the drivers side caliper now. I took a good look at the other side caliper. It was out just a bit also. I took it back apart, and re assembled it. This time I made sure the piston was bottomed down all the way and the holes in the piston face were in the correct position for matching up with the inboard brake pad. I am getting pretty good at these 88 rears now. I ain't scared of em no more.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-24-2010).]
katatak
JUN 24, 10:23 PM
Hey Joe,
I used the stock passenger side hose and it was a 4cylinder car. I'll see if there are some numbers on it.
Pat
Edit to add - sounds good!
[This message has been edited by katatak (edited 06-24-2010).]
josef644
JUN 24, 10:59 PM
quote
Originally posted by katatak:
Hey Joe,
I used the stock passenger side hose and it was a 4cylinder car. I'll see if there are some numbers on it.
Pat
Edit to add - sounds good!
1988? The Fiero Store doesn't even have a listing for an 88 4 cyl passenger side to water pump hose. I don't really want to use a flex hose.
I took a mirror and used it to try to find the leak this afternoon. I think it is the weld ,heater return nipple to coolant pipe. I am gonna move the hose back a bit and re tighten. I'll be able to see a little better. Then get it up to 170* or so again and take a good look again. My temperature gauge pretty well agrees with my code scanner on the coolant temperature. First mark from the left is 190*. About the same place as on my 86 Coupe.
I am gonna finish the rear brakes first, then do the parking brake cables before starting on the leak again. I would like to remeove the front wheels and prepare to start on the front brakes if it doesn't get to hot to quick.
Rained here till 1:30pm today. It will be sticky fast tomorrow.
Joe
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-24-2010).]
josef644
JUN 25, 11:52 AM
Both rear calipers and pads on and torqued down to specs. I have found that my parking brake cables are wasted so I just have the ends in its holes to keep the springs in place. I'll have to order all three new .$80.00 more shot to hell.
One side:
and the other side:
The rotors look better than they appear. The camera flash paints it, and lites it up for capture. I used a air sander to remove the surface rust on both sides before mounting them on the hubs.
Going out to drain my return coolant line and get a good look for the leak before lunch time.
More later
Drained, cleaned up , then installed a new hose. I tightened the hose with it away from the weld so I could see better. Refilled, and started it up to build pressure. Found the leaks. There are two. One from 12 to 3, and the second from 6 to 9 facing the pipe as it is mounted on the car. I can only get a picture of the one leak as the second one is on top and not accessible with the camera.
and
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-25-2010).]
Fieroseverywhere
JUN 25, 01:47 PM
Is your VSS signal getting to the PCM? Your RPM's seem to be dropping really fast. Thats usually the problem. Could also be the ISC disconneced or TPS slightly out of adjustment. Anyway.. That exhaust sounds great!! Well done Joe!
josef644
JUN 25, 02:21 PM
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:
Is your VSS signal getting to the PCM? Your RPM's seem to be dropping really fast. That's usually the problem. Could also be the ISC disconnected or TPS slightly out of adjustment. Anyway.. That exhaust sounds great!! Well done Joe!
Yep it's hooked up. The car hasn't move at all so I don't think there is a VSS signal ? You know now that you mention it I haven't noticed the IAC motor making it's noises before and after killing the ignition. I'll take a look at those items. I don't have but the one code for the cruise control stored.
I was watching the throttle plates move up and down, so I know the IAC is moving things.
I just ordered a new Raybestos passenger side parking brake cable from RockAuto, $13.26 + shipping. This will get it going for now. I'll replace the other two later. The right side was wasted, the other two were just ruff condition.
How hard is it to remove the drivers side pipe for a re-weld ?
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-25-2010).]
Fieroseverywhere
JUN 25, 03:58 PM
quote
Originally posted by josef644:
Yep it's hooked up. The car hasn't move at all so I don't think there is a VSS signal ? You know now that you mention it I haven't noticed the IAC motor making it's noises before and after killing the ignition. I'll take a look at those items. I don't have but the one code for the cruise control stored.
Thats probably it. Since the car is not moving there is no reason the ISC would set your coast idle. So I'm just hearing the RPM's dropping to idle speed. Since mine is a manual its set higher then yours. Just sounded odd to me.
The movement you see when the ignition is turned off is the PCM performing the "TPS learn". Its perfectly normal and wanted. As long as the TPS and ISC are adjusted properly.... It compensates for carbon buildup on the throttle body butterflies by substituting a new closed throttle TPS value in the PCM programming. It should do that almost everytime the engine is shut off. In short, it keeps the engine idling at the correct RPM even if you never clean your throttle body. Most cadillac owners don't.
Closer by the day Joe!
[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 06-25-2010).]
