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| 88 Coupe 4.9 Swap Thread (Page 47/69) |
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Fieroseverywhere
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JUN 17, 02:23 PM
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josef644
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JUN 17, 03:33 PM
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I am hoping that mine will be OK with the water pump pulley tightened down.
I went back out and put new rubber mounts on the chassis AC line where they mount to the frame behind the drivers seat. They are the same rubber mounts that are used on the AC condenser up front. I had two new ones I had left from my 86 Coupe build a while back.
I will connect the lines to the compressor tomorrow morning, and see if it will pull a vacuum.
New belt installed, $18.00 more in the pot. Pretty easy with this tensioner system we all have been using. Hardest part was the belt isn't shaped for the pulleys. It's shaped for storage in the cardboard surround package. Doesn't want to stay on the pulleys for routing. Started her up for 5 seconds. No strange noises.
Man-ya-na[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-17-2010).]
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josef644
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JUN 18, 12:46 PM
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With the belt on the engine I was able to tighten down all three bolts on the water pump pulley this morning. Ran it for about 5 seconds.
I removed the radio and removed the black tape wrapping on the part of the harness behind the radio. Got some slack in it now and it will flatten out a bit. Afterwards the radio slid all the way into its cavity. Mounter the HVAC/Radio surround and the bezel face plate. Upper right hand corner cracked out. Shiest
My horns do not work. I used a jumper to short across the solenoid to check the horn circuit. The horn is just barely sounding. I tapped on them a bit , it improved their function a bit. I think they are just about deceased. I need to figure out why there is not current going to the horn button to close the solenoid. I know why the PO had air horns mounter behind the radiator now.
Took a look at my notes for the temperature gauge wiring. I still need to work that out before to long.
Decided to take a day off from any and all labor of any kind for the rest of the day.
Tired of watching TV, went outside and cut some of my exhaust pipe with the hack saw. They are ready to be welded up now, maybe sometime Monday.[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-18-2010).]
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josef644
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JUN 19, 03:49 PM
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have spent the morning attempting to rebuild two of my rear calipers. I have them back together, but I am sure that they will work as they are supposed to.
I don't see a need to send the sliders with the calipers either. They were not an issue to install. These were original slider boots , not The Fiero Store boots.
Joe
I just took another stab at these two calipers. I have been able to do it all correctly except for getting the parking brake screw bolt and it's seal back in the hole at the rear of the caliper. You will not know if it is in correctly until it is seated all the way in the back of the caliper. It is difficult to insert the piston past the piston seal.[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-21-2010).]
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josef644
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JUN 20, 03:45 PM
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Happy Father Day to all
Went to Conroe, TX to have brunch with my daughter and my grandchildren today. It was great to see them. I have lost 27 lbs since they saw me last and were amazed.
When I got home I put the fasteners in the mouldings that go beside the inside door jams.
Remove the speedo pod and replaced the temperature gauge and the fuel gauge.
Performed the 'Temp Gauge Pegging Fix' on my car, then replaced the speedo pod. Tested all out before fastening it all back down tight. All appears to be well at this time.
Worked on getting the horn working correctly. I think the horn is shot and the white plastic turn signal canceling cam with the horn ring on the back side are both in need of cleaning or replacement. The horn ring needs cleaning and re greased. I need to locate a new horn.

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josef644
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JUN 21, 03:13 PM
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Got the horn going this morning. I had to remove the mounting bolt clean the metal, then tighten it back down. I have horns.
I called Calipers on line and talked to them about the 25.00 R & R charge. That is plus the $75.0 each to rebuild your cores. He doesn't really want to rebuild my cores he told me. Just to build them from his parts bins. So forget that. I can use any parts house and get a guaranteed rebuilt regardless what my cores look like.
I just spent two more hours working on the two rear calipers again. I have figured out how to get the parking lever bolt and its seal back in the bore on the drivers side caliper. It is ready to be put back on the car. The passenger side is together but I am nor real sure about its working correctly or not. It just didn't fell right as the piston went in the bore. I removed the piston and placed it back in a second time. All appeared well, but who knows.
I ran the engine for about ten minuets this morning, and watched the temperature gauge. That appears to match the temperature reading on my AutoXray 5000. When it all got to 199* it just sorta stayed there for a while. I let it run there for about 4 minuets or so, just watching the gauges.
It has dropped the ALDL Code 52, or memory reset code, but I picked up a code 62, something to do with the cruise control. I don't have cruise control. Might have to get stickpony to delete this from my chip.
Something isn't right in the serpentine belt department. It appears that something is out of alignment. The belt looks like it has been sanded with sand paper on the flat side. I don't even have a clue on where to look to fix this.
Located one small leak. It is where the heater return line enters the return coolant pipe. It's clamp is tight, so I don't know what the deal is here. I will drain the system and remove the hose . I can then look for a dirty barb, or a crack in the weld there. I really hope it is just dirty there preventing a good seal. I will loose about 1 1/2 gallons of water by taking off that hose. I'll just have to use a couple of drain pans to catch the water.

I drained the water at the heater hose return here in the picture and when I went to pull the hose off of the nipple the coolant hose moved. Yep it was loose as a goose. I cleaned the return line nipple anyway and put it all back together. Tightened all clamps back down good.
I'll add water and check it out tomorrow.
Heat index is 108* here[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-21-2010).]
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josef644
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JUN 22, 12:18 PM
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My welder friend came over this morning and we tacked the tips to the pipes. I dropped the exhaust from the car so we could weld everything up good. After a good cool down period I put it all back on the car. I like it, sounds pretty good too.

I ordered a 84-87 rear caliper rebuild kit form O'Rileys Auto Parts yesterday. I went to town to get it this morning before playing with the exhaust. $ 9.00 more in the pot. I looked at a 10 " chrome air breather while I was there. About $25.00, maybe soon !
I took the passenger side caliper apart and replaced the one seal I was unhappy with. It went together right the first time and was seated and sealed perfect. I put the rest of the parts on it. I now have two fresh rebuilt 88 rear calipers ready to go back on the car. Tom Slick donated me two 88 slider boots last week, and was kind enough to send me one more so I can get this car back on the ground.[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-22-2010).]
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SMTHGT
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JUN 23, 12:02 AM
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We are gonna have a bunch of 4.9's running around Texas before long... Looking Good ------------------
Steve Aka. "SmoothGT" 1987 GT 4.9L~V8 ~4T6OE SmoothGT~II
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josef644
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JUN 23, 12:25 PM
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I got one caliper on the ride today. Opted for a set of new pads for the rears. Ordered them from my local NAPA, will be here in the AM. I had painted my bridges a few days ago, and had them out in the hot sunshine 'baking' since. On the drivers side rear:

I filled it back up today with coolant, and was surprised to find the leak was still there. I will drain again in the am, I am gonna get a new piece of hose and put some yellow 3M on the end before I clamp it down. some um gotta give here.
Found my vacuum modulator hose unplugged. It was to hot there to reconnect it back up. I had been running it for 15 minuets or so.
Ordered a set of RayBestos pads for the front today. They were on sale for $14.86 at RockAuto.com I also used the discount code offered here somewhere. Ordered a set of caliper rebuild kits for the fronts also. Might as well put kits in those while I am at it. The fronts will be a joke compared to doing the rears. I will have to lube the sliders anyway. Might as well put a new seal and piston boot on at the same time.[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-23-2010).]
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katatak
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JUN 23, 08:24 PM
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Looking good Joe. The tips look great - we need a sound clip!
Pat
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