Aurora 4.0l / Izuzu 5 speed swap into 88 coupe (Page 47/102) cptsnoopy OCT 09, 04:36 AM Got most of the wiring done. I put power to the system and starting putting plugs together. No smoke so far... I noticed a .45amp draw and found it to be from the headlight system. A quick wiggle of the headlight switch towards off seemed to clear up that minor drain. I probably need to get a new switch so I don't get stuck somewhere with a dead battery. I got the 86GT rear lights/cruise wiring harness modified and plugged in. All lights are working correctly and no funny stuff going on up front so it should be good. (I removed all the blower motor and cruise control wires plus I re-located one of the wires on the C500 to G7) I do have a question for the more knowledgeable folks. With power applied to the system but no computer installed, should the tach sense wire coming from the instrument cluster (tach gauge) be approx +12v ? It makes sense that it would be and then the spark system would ground the wire at the appropriate times to create a pulse. Not sure about these newer cars though... Things left to do before a start attempt. Install the battery box under the spare tire and run the cables rearward. Setup a pigtail so I can plug in either a wide band or narrow band O2 sensor from inside the car. (near the computer) Put the rear body on and mount the mufflers centered in the exhaust tip cutouts. (I found out that the notchie has a slightly different position for the dual exhaust than the GT) Drink more whisky... and give it a try... Will OCT 09, 11:19 AM quote Originally posted by cptsnoopy: With power applied to the system but no computer installed, should the tach sense wire coming from the instrument cluster (tach gauge) be approx +12v ? Yes. If you pull whatever fuse you're using to power the ICM, the voltage on the tach wire should go away. RCR OCT 09, 12:33 PM Cool Charlie. Almost there. What are you using for the exaust/muffler? I used a Flowmaster 45 series and it's louder than hell. I was looking for a little lower tone. ,<shrug> Bob cptsnoopy OCT 09, 03:21 PM Thank you Will. I was hoping that was a correct reading. (I don't want to cook the computer before I get a chance to try it. ) Hi Bob, Here is a picture of the small mufflers I will try first. These are most likely not going to do much. I was contemplating using resonator tips like the supertrapp but I don't know how that will work out either. cptsnoopy OCT 13, 04:25 AM I've been working on the car here and there so I decided to get some pics posted. Shot of the engine bay: (it's getting real busy in there ) Wires to/from C500: pass through fitting: Holley 950 mounted: (still trying to figure out what to do with the WBo2 controller.) more to follow: cptsnoopy OCT 13, 04:36 AM Tonight I worked on the Battery box and the positive cable (1 Gauge stranded welding cable) The Cable actually came with the car when I bought it. The previous owner was getting ready to do the battery relocate himself and had already bought the cable. It was 10' 3" long and it looks like it will work precisely. I bought 10' of non-metallic flexible conduit and it looks like it will work well to prevent chafing of the cable. I will be using 2 Gauge stranded cable to wire the ground. The plan for now is to use several lengths bolted to the frame and to themselves (daisy-chain) to create several grounding points along the way back to the engine. Picture sequence from front to rear of the battery and positive cable routing: The black mark on the conduit is where the cable ends. I still need to cut the conduit the correct length and secure it to the frame. At this point I do not have a connector figured out to connect the starter wire to this wire... That's all for now. cptsnoopy OCT 17, 01:44 AM More pictures of the negative cable routing with integrated grounds. You can't see the neg cable in this picture but it runs just under the jack handle (lug end) and up under the jack perch near the front passenger side of the wheel tub. Here, another cable is bolted on the front side of the sheet metal divider (first ground location) and it runs downward and under the frame towards the wheel well. Back up and along the inner top of the wheel well. cptsnoopy OCT 17, 01:59 AM Then it bends down and is bolted to the third negative cable and into the body for the second ground location. From here it gets zip-tied to the return coolant pipe as it goes rearward towards the back of the car. Not shown (bad picture) is the end of this cable and the beginning of the fourth cable bolted to the rear bolt of the return coolant tube protector/jack point. This is not a ground for lack of a good connection to the body. Now the cable comes up the frame just in front of the right rear wheel well and is bolted to the bottom of the sheet metal that is in the area of the original battery location. This is the third frame ground point. Here is the fifth cable that actually goes from the cable/frame to the engine. I don't remember the length of the 2ga cable that goes from the battery to the frame in front but the rest are as follows: 2nd cable = 49" 3rd cable = 60" 4th cable = 24" 5th cable = 24" Other than the 2ga cable that clamps onto the battery the rest are 4ga. cptsnoopy OCT 17, 02:08 AM I forgot to mention that I tried turning the motor over with the key after getting the wires all bolted up and nothing...??? The headlights went up and down fast and powerful so I was thinking I messed up the starter wire routing then it hit me... The manual shift cars need the clutch pushed in to get a start signal to the starter!!! It turned over really well with the plugs in and full compression. The noise it made give me the impression that it may be loud as I don't have the baby mufflers installed yet. Erik OCT 17, 02:52 AM Can't wait to hear it run! Nice job !