88 Coupe 4.9 Swap Thread (Page 46/69)
katatak JUN 14, 10:06 PM
OK Joe,

I can't find pics of the cable together but here's some pics of an 88 cradle:

This is the left side - front cable goes through the slotted hole and the wheel cable goes through the smaller round hole:


This is the right side - right side wheel cable goes through this hole:


Right side cable clips into this hole:


Left side wheel cable clips in this hole. The front cable comes in over the top of the left cable:


Fiero store map:


I can't remember which cable has the threaded end that goes to the adjuster - I think it's the left side wheel cable! If you need pics of the adjuster and how the cables hook up, I will go out and get them off the Formula.

Pat

[This message has been edited by katatak (edited 06-14-2010).]

josef644 JUN 14, 10:37 PM
My driver side cable is still on the cradle the front was not hooked to anything. I removed the right side one for welding the piece of angle iron for the mount welding. I think I can get it all together now.

Thanks for the pictures Pat

Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-14-2010).]

josef644 JUN 15, 11:17 AM
Installed the last two clamps for the coolant system. I added about two gallons of water and was surprised that I could not see water in the radiator neck. It was all on the floor. I had failed to tighten the drain plug.

Removed the over flow tank and tightened the drain plug. About 1/2 gallon later I had water up top. Capped it off and continued to fill.

Once I had the fill hose full I went to turn the key for a 5 second run to purge air. Nada, nothing.

Used the meter to check voltage. 2 Volts ain't enough. The battery had gone down over night. I had left the dome lights on since??? Hooked up the battery charger.

Removed the passenger side headlight for rebuild, then the drivers side also. I have the Rodney Dickman rebuild kits for 88's here already. Something to do later after supper time is over.

Installed the overflow tank. Removed the overflow tank

Added the radiator fan, then added the overflow tank again.

Battery is coming back up real nice. I'll remove the charger around 3:00 or so, and give her a spin.

Rebuilt drivers side headlight, pretty easy as I have done 84-86's before.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-15-2010).]

josef644 JUN 15, 08:35 PM
Here is a picture of the three white 'plastic' bumpers that disintegrate beside a pile of crumbled up wasted pieces. The passenger side motor was a bit harder than the driver side, but after rebuilding two 84-86 motors this was a piece of cake. Rodney's instructions were very good. I used the Vice Grip method of removing the gear.
katatak JUN 15, 11:37 PM
Hey Joe,

Are my eyes playing tricks on me or is that a flat spot on the gear? Is that a "mod" for installing the side that fits under the drive shaft? Or maybe I had one too many beer's this evening.


Pat
josef644 JUN 16, 07:43 AM

quote
Originally posted by katatak:

Hey Joe,

Are my eyes playing tricks on me or is that a flat spot on the gear? Is that a "mod" for installing the side that fits under the drive shaft? Or maybe I had one too many beer's this evening.


Pat



Sharp eye Pat. I had already trimmed the gear and it was ready to go back in the housing before I took the picture

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-16-2010).]

josef644 JUN 16, 04:44 PM
Spent the whole day at the VA Clinic in Lufkin,Tx today. All was well. I had lost 26 lbs since my last visit April 10th.

Its an oven in the grange after been locked up all day. I'll get back on it man-ya-na.

Gonna finish up the coolant filling and burping first, then let it idle for a while and watch for leaks and watch the temp gauge to see if it is working. Remount both headlights after looking for leaks.
josef644 JUN 17, 10:28 AM
Got the two headlight remounted and tested out. They work great. Sorta fast compared to my 86 Coupe.

Finished up the coolant fill. I am gonna hook up my AutoXray 5000 and watch the temperature come up for the first time. This will be the first time I have ran the engine with coolant in it, or for more than 20 seconds at a time. It appears that my temp gauge is not cooperating. It goes all the way to the far right with the engine running. Far left with just the ignition on. I'll have to work on straightening that out later.

I plugged in the Code reader , and set it to monitor the engine. Tach was right on the nose by the gauge. J Gunsett here on the forum did the modification for me. When the water temp reached 155* the engine threw the belt. I had been running it about two minuets. Dis ani't gonna be fun. Close but no cookie!

I am getting a code 52 also. It is something about memeory reset.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-17-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere JUN 17, 11:07 AM

quote
Originally posted by josef644:

Got the two headlight remounted and tested out. They work great. Sorta fast compared to my 86 Coupe.

Finished up the coolant fill. I am gonna hook up my AutoXray 5000 and watch the temperature come up for the first time. This will be the first time I have ran the engine with coolant in it, or for more than 20 seconds at a time. It appears that my temp gauge is not cooperating. It goes all the way to the far right with the engine running. Far left with just the ignition on. I'll have to work on straightening that out later.

I plugged in the Code reader , and set it to monitor the engine. Tach was right on the nose by the gauge. J Gunsett here on the forum did the modification for me. When the water temp reached 155* the engine threw the belt. I had been running it about two minuets. Dis ani't gonna be fun. Close but no cookie!

I am getting a code 52 also. It is something about memeory reset.




Code 52 just means the battery has been disconnected. It goes away on its own and doesn't set the light.

Did you switch to the 3 wire temp sender? If not your gauge will not work right. The caddy has a switch and can only control a light. If you did then double check the wiring. Could have mixed up the light and gauge wires.

Any idea why it threw the belt? Hows your tensioner holding?

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 06-17-2010).]

josef644 JUN 17, 11:11 AM

quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:


Code 52 just means the battery has been disconnected. It goes away on its own and doesn't set the light.

Did you switch to the 3 wire temp sender? If not your gauge will not work right. The caddy has a switch and can only control a light. If you did then double check the wiring. Could have mixed up the light and gauge wires.

Any idea why it threw the belt? Hows your tensioner holding?




Not sure, fixing to go back out and look at it. Could be right about the two wires on the the sensor and a new connector. I did install the three wire sensor.

Might have to get you to make me a working tensioner set up. So I can move forward!!! Two minuets is not enough running time.

Belt is destroyed. $18.00 flushed down the drain. I found that I only have one bolt in the water pump pulley now. I found one in the floor, and the third one has eluded me. I was hearing a sound like a Ford power steering pump going out just before the belt was destroyed. I was out of the car and looking at the engine when it happened. I noticed the alternator wasn't running any longer.

Don't forget to tighten the three water pump pulley bolts before installing the engine in the car.

This is gonna be fun!!!



Here is the destroyed belt:


I located a replacement bolt for the missing one and put these back on the water pump. Getting the first one started was fun as I couldn't find the threaded hole from underneath. I used a 90* screwdriver to find the hole and started the bolt in the remaining one. The third one was easy as there were now two of the three bolts threaded into the water pump.

I'll get a new belt this evening.

Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-17-2010).]