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| ECM upgrade (1227730) for stock 2.8 (Page 45/107) |
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FierOmar
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JAN 03, 10:53 AM
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Mister
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JAN 08, 10:54 PM
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Pyrthian
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JAN 11, 08:32 AM
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while re-pinning my ECM connectors - I found an error in my wiring harness 
on the Fiero ECM connector, there are 2 lines for each injector bank control. while pulling the terminals from the Fiero ECM and plugging into the 7730 ECM, one at a time - I come across what looks like an error in Darth's re-pinning diagram. here is a green wire which is supposed to be a blue wire, and a blue wire where there should be a green wire. the car ran, so it must be the diagram - not the harness....start digging into this....
here is what we got
2 green for inj bank A, and 2 blue for inj bank B. Not sure why - probably because the old Fiero ECM internal switch doesnt have the nutz to switch the injectors, so, it needed to split the load. anyways, in the wiring harness, there is only 1 wire for inj A & 1 wire for inj B. which means there is a "Y" for the wire to split into 2 terminals. I saw they did this for a MAP terminal also. anyways - I follow one of the leads down to the "Y". I find the factory had mixed up the "Y" wires. the "main" blue wire had a 2nd green lead tied to it at the "Y", and the main green wire had a blue lead tied to it at the "Y". ug. anyways - since the new ECM uses only 1 terminal now, just cut the wrong "Y" lead off, and all was happy again. but, boy did it confuse me untill I saw what went wrong. had I followed the incorrect wiring color code of the wiring harness - I would have had a VERY messed up injection system, either having only 1 bank of 3 injectors firing constatnly - or having all 6 firing as one bank constantly.
re-pinning is pretty easy, once you get the hang of it. for the "release tool" - I am using a bent open hair pin. works nice. remove enough electrical tape from the harness, so you can handle single wires, put the connector in a vice, hang the wiring, so it doesnt "pull" on the connector. if you look into the face of the connector, you see 4 rows of holes. the outter are the realease holes. in them, you will see the realease tab, on one side of the hole. stick the tool/hairpin into the hole, flat along the realease tab, you'll feel it hit bottom, maybe even hear the tab realease, now pull the wire out. that easy. they do make an official tool for this also. I expect that works even better. the hairpin is slightly to narrow, and sometimes misses the realease, and is soft, so you need to flip it over a few times as it bends.
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Hudini
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JAN 11, 08:38 AM
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Now I'm going to have to check my wiring too. Thanks for the heads up.
How long before she fires up?
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Pyrthian
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JAN 11, 10:52 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by Hudini:
Now I'm going to have to check my wiring too. Thanks for the heads up.
How long before she fires up? |
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I'm sure mine was just a bad day at the factory. but - no harm in chacking. it fairly easy to spot.
on the Fiero connector: C15 & D16 should be blue (on mine D16 was green) and D14 & D15 should be green (on mine D15 was blue)
on the 7730 connector its BC11 should be blue - just follow it back to a taped up spot - thats where the "Y" is. make sure it is blue after that also
BC12 is the green one. same thing - follow it back to the taped up spot - make sure it green after that also.
also - if anyone interested - I have a 3 solenoid EGR valve - never used (except for engine break-in) - engine was never in a car - $40. PM if interested
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Blacktree
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JAN 11, 01:09 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Pyrthian:
2 green for inj bank A, and 2 blue for inj bank B. Not sure why - probably because the old Fiero ECM internal switch doesnt have the nutz to switch the injectors, so, it needed to split the load. anyways, in the wiring harness, there is only 1 wire for inj A & 1 wire for inj B. which means there is a "Y" for the wire to split into 2 terminals. I saw they did this for a MAP terminal also. anyways - I follow one of the leads down to the "Y". I find the factory had mixed up the "Y" wires. the "main" blue wire had a 2nd green lead tied to it at the "Y", and the main green wire had a blue lead tied to it at the "Y". ug. anyways - since the new ECM uses only 1 terminal now, just cut the wrong "Y" lead off, and all was happy again. but, boy did it confuse me untill I saw what went wrong. had I followed the incorrect wiring color code of the wiring harness - I would have had a VERY messed up injection system, either having only 1 bank of 3 injectors firing constatnly - or having all 6 firing as one bank constantly. |
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The wiring on my car was like that, also. Like you, I just snipped the wrong colored legs off the injector Y-junctions, and removed the redundant wires from the sensor circuits.
To give Darth some credit, he does specify the correct wires to use for the injectors. He just has the colors for the ones to delete backwards. As long as you follow the pin numbers, you'll be fine.[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 01-11-2008).]
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Pyrthian
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JAN 11, 01:34 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Blacktree:
The wiring on my car was like that, also. Like you, I just snipped the wrong colored legs off the injector Y-junctions, and removed the redundant wires from the sensor circuits.
To give Darth some credit, he does specify the correct wires to use for the injectors. He just has the colors for the ones to delete backwards. As long as you follow the pin numbers, you'll be fine.
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wow, what year is yours? mines 85
and, yes - if you follow his sheet - it will be fine. it just scared me when I went to pull D15 and it was blue - not green. had to make sure what was what.
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Darth Fiero
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JAN 11, 03:00 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Blacktree:
To give Darth some credit, he does specify the correct wires to use for the injectors. He just has the colors for the ones to delete backwards. As long as you follow the pin numbers, you'll be fine.
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To be honest it really doesn't matter on the injector wiring. Both injector outputs from the 7730 fire at the same time; thus all 6 injectors fire at the same time. So it really doesn't matter how you have them hooked up to the ECM.
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Blacktree
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JAN 11, 10:26 PM
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To Pyrthian: Mine is an '87. But I bought the wiring harness from the Fiero Factory. It could've come from an '85, '86, or '87. I'm not sure.
To darth Fiero: That's good to know. Thanks for the info.
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Pyrthian
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JAN 13, 06:15 PM
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well, my next stumblingblock: the crank sensor
since I am also adding the DIS, I need to wire this in also. I went to the local "u-pull-it" yard, and cut off the connectors for the DIS module. took em home, and compared them to my schematic (89 baretta) and noticed the 3-pin crank position sensor was wired different than the schematic shows. in the schematic, it shows 2 wires, and I guess a shielding sleeve wired to the center post - using all 3 connectors. on the one I brought home - there are only 2, one of them being the center post. so, I wnet thru the PDF's Darth had posted, and noticed on the 93 Firebird - it 2 wires, one of them being the center post. and, checking more into this - looks like they used a twisted pair instead of sheilding. and - the thing that makes me worry is: the way its labelled in the PDF. the post are "A C B" not "A B C" like all the others. is this a typo on one of them?
so, the Q: can I use the twisted pair connector as is? are there different crank sensors & different DIS modules?
I expect not, they are the same, just 2 different approaches for noise suppression. on the connection between them
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