Sourmug's Decklid Vent Build ** 56K Warning!!** (Page 45/69)
Sourmug NOV 20, 10:12 PM
OK, Time for a bit of an update.

First the acquisitions:

I sure got awfully tired of the dust in the garage last winter. Hopefully this baby will help keep the dust down to manageable levels :



I also purchased a power door lock kit mostly to have key-less entry:

Here is everything that comes with the kit:

I plan on installing these in a similar fashion to the method LTLFRARI used on his web site: Here

As mentioned previously, I also purchased Rodney Dickman's short shifter c/w boot. Here is a picture of how the boot looks on the Stealth console:


The boot is a great product and is if great quality but it just doesn't look right sitting there. So I purchased a chrome frame and leather boot for a BMW E3 which I think looks much better with this particular console:

[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-29-2007).]

Sourmug NOV 20, 10:48 PM
I also replaced the dew wipes with the assistance of :
jstricker's thread
I also removed the outer door skins with the help of :
Fierohoho's thread
Here are some my pictures of the process for those who may not have done this:
The first thing to remove is the molding which is held on by plastic clips. Here is a shot with the molding removed:

The next step is to remove the clips which will break virtually every one. You can new ones through the Fiero Store. Once those are removed there are 4 plastic rivets on the bottom of the door which need to be drilled or center punched to remove them. Then the whole skin will lift up off of the door structure. A small rod connects to the lock mechanism. Here is the rod and to remove it you undo the small clip on the key lock:

And the door skin is off!

Here is a picture of the bottom edge of the skin, the 4 large holes were for the rivets that attach it to the structure:

The stock ground effects need to be removed for the Aus stage 2 scoop trim. The stock piece is held on by a number of rivets as seen in the previous picture and by a metal bar that is also riveted in place. Here is the back side of the skin showing all the rivets:

Once the bottom row of rivets are removed the stock piece slides off of the metal bar:

And the skin ready for prepping for the Aus trim:


The dew wipes were much easier to replace using the info in the threads above but it's still a bit of work but at least they are done now. Sorry no pics.

I then started on the inside of the doors. First I removed the self tapping screws I used to hold the new door levers on and replaced them with pop rivets:

Sorry for the out of focus picture.

[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-29-2007).]

Sourmug NOV 20, 10:49 PM
I am also mounting some speakers in the doors. The one I purchased are Pioneer TS-A1671R 6 1/2" diameter and are only 1 3/4" deep.

I cut out the speaker opening into each of the new door panels and the temporarily mounted them and traced the opening onto the door structure using soapstone. The holes were them cut into the metal. This position cut our a tack weld between the two layers of metal so I ran a small bead along the cut edge:

And then touched up all the cut edges with rust paint:

I was initially concerned that the widow regulators would be in the way but there appears to be sufficient clearance between the end of the regulator and the speaker magnet:


The window stop also just mises the speaker magnet as the window moved up and down. I think I will add a 1/4" ring to the front of the door panel just to provide some additional clearance though.
And the speaker from the panel side:



That's it for now.
Nolan

[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-29-2007).]

fourpoint9 NOV 20, 10:50 PM
Very Nice shift boot !

[This message has been edited by fourpoint9 (edited 11-20-2006).]

Sourmug NOV 20, 11:06 PM
Thanks! I like it.
Fiero1Fan NOV 21, 02:40 AM
Looking really good.
TrotFox NOV 21, 02:51 AM
Say, while you're at it... How does the door panel look for adding an enclosure for those 6.5" drivers? I've got this nutso plan to install a pair of 6.5" subwoofers that way, pushing them into the cabin enough to clear the regulators. I haven't done much research into the job yet though as I don't even how power windows in my Formula. { : ]

Just figured I'd ask while you've got the doors in that state. = D

Red 5spd Formula
Trot, the ever-planning, fox...
4.9 PFI FIERO NOV 21, 11:55 AM
The swap is looking good... I'll be taking tips from you in a minute. lol

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Sourmug NOV 22, 10:00 AM

quote
Originally posted by TrotFox:

Say, while you're at it... How does the door panel look for adding an enclosure for those 6.5" drivers? I've got this nutso plan to install a pair of 6.5" subwoofers that way, pushing them into the cabin enough to clear the regulators. I haven't done much research into the job yet though as I don't even how power windows in my Formula. { : ]

Just figured I'd ask while you've got the doors in that state. = D

Red 5spd Formula
Trot, the ever-planning, fox...



Well, there's not much room for an enclosure. What sort of measurements/pictures would you like?

Nolan
cornersonrails NOV 26, 07:05 PM
Your build is looking incredible! I have been putting in my 3000gt dash and installing as best I can to your instructions,level and skills.(I'm not even close....lol) I was wondering if anyone has figured out how to use our wiring harnes to somehow plug into the back of the dash to use the different cluster?? Any thoughts on this problem. Thanks , Chris