LS4 / F40 swap - fieroguru (Page 44/216)
fieroguru JAN 29, 05:53 PM
I also put one of the spare 88 front suspensions in the truck and took it to the car wash to clean it up some. This will be the one that gets the S10 coil over setup, poly bushings and a fresh coat of paint.




fieroguru JAN 30, 07:49 PM
One of the suspension/handling upgrades for my 88 Fiero is to replace the poly bushing lateral links with some rod end lateral links. This will eliminate any lateral deflection and provide a more consistent toe setting (important for good tire wear for the width of tires I plan to run). Several vendors already sell this upgrade, but I wanted to see if I could build a set using available off the shelf components (no custom spacers required).

The key to this conversion is the QA1 rod end that essentially has a built in spacer shaft. This is a teflon lined, chromoly, rod end that is rated for 24,000 lbs. The hole is 1/2" and it nearly fills the length of the mounting pocket on the cradle.


A test fit showed that finding a couple of washers the proper thickness could close up the gap quite well. In this pic, the washers are the washers from the lateral link bolts, but they are slightly too thin.


To put the lateral link assemblies together, you need the rod ends, swaged tubes, 5/8" jam nuts, and some spacers to close the gaps in the mounting pockets on the cradle.



Due to manufacturing tolerances, you may need to slightly widen the lateral link pocket. I used a wheel bearing bolt and 2 nuts. Thread the bolt into the nuts and install the closed end of the wrench as shown. Once the nut it tight to the head end of the bolt, tighten the other one to push the wall out slightly:



Then install the links with the thick washers on both sides:



The rear pocket is a little short to allow the rod end to stand up. You could use a pry bar to push the top of the pocket up, or just leave the rod end at an angle:



The links mount to the upright with thick washers on both sides of the rod ends:




Here is a list of part #'s, quantities and prices:
code:

Part							mfg. Part #		Qty	Price		Total
QA1 Rod Ends – ½” hole, 5/8-18 thread			PCYMR8-10T		4	$15.95		$63.80
QA1 Rod Ends	– ½” hole, 5/8-18 thread 		PCYML8-10T		4	$14.95		$59.80
Afco Swaged steel tube 5/8-18 L/R, ¾” diam, 8” length	36178			2	$9.88		$19.76
Afco Swaged steel tube 5/8-18 L/R, ¾” diam, 9” length	36179			2	$10.88		$21.76
Thin 5/8-18 LH Grade 5 zinc coated nuts (10 pack)	99612A159		1	$7.38		$7.39
Thin 5/8-18 RH Grade 5 zinc coated nuts (25 pack)	99612A535		1	$6.61		$6.61
M12 thick washer, black oxide, 4.5-5.4mm (5 pack)	9804A107		4	$6.45		$25.80

Total (not including Shipping/Handling)									$204.91



The QA1 rod ends and Afco tubes were purchased from Summit Racing - it did take about 1 month for the QA1 rod ends to arrive (they were back ordered at the time).
The rest of the nuts/bolts/washers came from McMasterCarr.

As you can see this project will set you back about $205 + shipping which is less than most vendors are charging for this upgrade. You might be able to save some $$ on the jam nuts and spacers, but I wanted the nuts grade 5 and zinc coated and a single thick washer on both sides.

I am sure these components are not DOT approved, so this should be considered for off-road use only (and no, I will not be selling these kits).
Stubby79 JAN 30, 11:11 PM
Since they're open to the elements, is wear an issue for rod ends like that?

Edit: Nevermind, I see your thread in the tech section has already adressed this.

[This message has been edited by Stubby79 (edited 01-30-2012).]

fieroguru FEB 04, 07:17 PM
Almost done with the lateral link relocation at the upright. This modification lowers the lateral and trailing links at the upright to either restore the supension to the stock geometry when the rear is lowered 1.5" OR to improve the camber curve on a stock height Fiero. The lateral link mount locations are lowered 1 1/2" from stock.

Cardboard vision:



16ga template (left) and then the 1/8" steel parts for both uprights:



Bolted together:




I still need to make the piece that will bolt to the backside of the casting (under the nut in the pic) and help reinforce the trailing link mount:

The only mod to the upright is this corner of the casting is rounded off:


I am still waiting on the steel sleeve for the new lateral link mounts and shorter M14 and M12 bolts.
thedrue FEB 04, 09:10 PM
wow, I really like that solution to the 88 geometry issue. I hope you sell those and if you need another to try it out I will be putting an 88 cradle in my 3.4 turbo car within the next couple months and really like the look of these as the car is lowered substantially.

Keep up the good work!
fieroguru FEB 05, 07:31 AM

quote
Originally posted by thedrue:

wow, I really like that solution to the 88 geometry issue. I hope you sell those...

Keep up the good work!



Thanks! Once I get them finished and figure out all the time/materials to make them, I might offer them for sale... probably in the $250 to $300 range for the set.
thedrue FEB 05, 02:41 PM
Sounds good, keep us all informed. I think this is the best solution to this problem. Raising the brackets on the cradle makes less sense to me and definitely causes more interference issues and strength issues.

this should bring the rear suspension behavior back in line with stock even with a fairly aggressive lowering.
fieroguru FEB 08, 07:15 PM
I got one side done:
fieroguru FEB 09, 07:13 PM
Here are some quick mockups. I did shim the wheel about 3/8" outboard to clear the new lateral link bracket on a 16" wheel. Once I get my wheels, tires and decide on a ride height, I will probably make another custom set of these and change them from the 1.5" relocation to something in the 2-2.5 range... just have to make sure they clear my wheels.

With 6 1/2" between cradle and floor (1/4" higher than stock ride height specified in Bloozberry's drawings) or 28" to center of wheel well opening:


Stock (lateral links are almost level):


With fieroguru lateral link relocation (lateral links angle down, will kick out the bottom of the tire for positive camber gain under compression):


With 5" between cradle and floor (1 1/4" lower than stock ride height) or 26.5" to center of wheel well opening:
Stock (lateral links already pointing up to the wheels)

With fieroguru lateral link relocation (lateral links close to level again - restores to stock suspension geometry with 1 1/2" lowering):


With 3 1/2" between cradle and floor (2 3/4" lower than stock ride height) or 25.0" to center of wheel well opening:


Stock (significant negative camber gain... definitely not good)


With fieroguru lateral link relocation (less bad - pretty much the same as the stock suspension lowered 1 1/2"):


I have to get my welding gas refilled, then I can weld up the other side.
fieroguru FEB 11, 12:39 PM
I finished the other side and modified the backing plate slightly (made it flat across the bottom) so they will now clear a 16 x 7 wheel (38mm offset):