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| Fiero 2m8 LT1 NX Roadster conversion (Page 40/46) |
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gunslinger
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OCT 06, 07:30 PM
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I am interested in the MSD timer how mch are you asking for it.
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KurtAKX
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OCT 07, 12:48 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by Fiero2m8:
Keeping an eye out for reasonably priced 16" rims to use with my set of Toyo 225/60/16 tires:
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Yikes! You aren't going to be able to turn to full lock! Those are in the neighborhood of 26" tall! I have 25.5" tall on right now and they grind when at full lock under some conditions (195/65-15) That will be much more pronounced with taller wider tires!
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Fiero2m8
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OCT 07, 09:40 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by gunslinger:
I am interested in the MSD timer how mch are you asking for it. |
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I'll probably keep included with the Nitrous Kit.
I was going to say half price of what I paid for it at the local speed shop here in Canada but for that money you can buy brand new from Summit here:
http://store.summitracing.c...il.asp?part=MSD-8969
| quote | Originally posted by KurtAKX:
Yikes! You aren't going to be able to turn to full lock! Those are in the neighborhood of 26" tall! I have 25.5" tall on right now and they grind when at full lock under some conditions (195/65-15) That will be much more pronounced with taller wider tires! |
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The 245/50/16's I just took off are 25.6" tall and I never had the problem you are describing.
I've had the other tires on the car before without issue - I believe the increased height was offset by them being 2cm narrower.
Anyways, the taller sidewall will improve my ground clearance issue and if they rub, I can always swap in taller front springs I have laying around.
Ryan
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Fiero2m8
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OCT 23, 04:45 PM
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I have been pulling my hair out trying to fix my NO START WHEN WARM condition with the LT1.
So far no help from the www.CamaroZ28.com forum
I guess it wouldn't hurt to post a copy here since this thread is in the Tech section.
Here's what I posted there...
Hi Guys,
Long time lurker, first time poster since the search feature hasn't helped.
I have a 1994 iron head LT1 in my Fiero that I built a couple years ago.
It is 60 over, with forged pistons, new accel injectors, MSD Optispark, mild Nitrous friendly cam for the NX LT1-Pro Direct Pro 100-300 Nitrous kit. The rest of the recently rebuilt engine is stock except hugger headers. The ECM has been replaced (92/93 ODBI) and is using a Street and Performance custom chip and wiring harness.
This summer after no changes to the motor in a year, I developed a hard/no start condition when the engine is up to operating temp.
I replaced the ICM and changed the NGK TR6 plugs to fresh TR55's. I thought it was grounds or charging system but none of those fixes have helped. I later discovered it is fuel related as a small spray of Quik Start on the K&N filter will cause the engine to start. Also the MSD digital - 6 box light shows spark during cranking and it starts fine when cold (using a powermaster 9004 starter and a OPTIMAX red top).
Could I possiby be getting vapour lock? The fuel pressure is good with key on and during cranking. I have tried both a stock LT1 PROM chip and the custom one and no change (the main difference is the custom chip helps the idle as I only have 12Hg/in at idle with the new cam).
The engine ran great for a couple years, so I don't know what has failed. The fuel pump is a Holley Walbro 255LPH. I have a GM Tech I scanner and no codes or unusual stuff seem to show up.
Help, as I'm running out of ideas and money and am considering parting out the powertrain. I can start it cold and drive around fine, but if I shut it off after it's warm it won't start on its own again until its cold.
Haynes manual says to check this when hard to start warm:
1. Air filter dirty - tried removing (no change)
2. Bad engine ground connection - added a second (no change)
3. Fuel not reaching the injectors - confirmed (no change)
4. Loose connection in the ignition system - tried omiting MSD box (no change)
New stuff I installed:
1. Fuel filter (no change)
2. Ignition Coil - (did run smoother on cold startup but didn't help when hot)
3. O2 sensors (no change)
4. New Battery (old one dies within 30 secs of cranking)
5. New full tank of fuel (no change)
Tests I ran:
1. Fuel Pressure (47psi when pump turned on then drops to 42 and holds)
2. Disconnected Nitrous line to ensure no fuel leakage into manifold (none)
3. Removed vacuum line from FPR to ensure no fuel leakage into manifold (none)
4. Tried retarding the timing 20 degrees during cranking under 500 rpm (no change)
5. Tried the suggestion with the key on 5 times for 5 secs each (no change)
6. Tried to start when hot with the pedal to the floor - flood clearing mode (no start)
I know that the problem is heat related but not sure it's heat internal to the engine or engine compartment heat - I did relocate the ICM and coil to a cooler spot away from the engine.
So after all that I've got nothing to show for it - same problem.
Once its up to temp, I can shut it off and immediately restart usually with success.
If it doesn't catch immediately or if I let it sit off a couple minutes, it's toast until the engine in left alone a 1/2 hour.
Spraying a little Quik Start in the intake manifold is the only chance I have to start unless you wait the 1/2 hour.
When I'm lucky and it does start, it idles and revs fine so it is only a starting issue.
I guess I'll just wait until someone posts for me to change my Optispark (for the 3rd time) or install a new CTS...
Cheers,
Ryan
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doublec4
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OCT 23, 05:45 PM
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Is it actually cranking or just "ticking" like Ive heard quite a few 2.8s do when hot..
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Fiero2m8
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OCT 23, 06:10 PM
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Good question!
Actually, I've ruled out a "heat soaked" starter.[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 08-18-2009).]
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doublec4
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OCT 24, 01:50 AM
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Where did you add your second ground? Maybe get out the ohm meter and check to see if the second ground even did anything... you still may have too much resistance with ignition components or maybe fuel injectors? Maybe visually inspect all connections and pull wire loom back to inspect areas?
I just reread what you wrote.. Im not a mechanic but maybe this makes sense to you or others...
you mentioned spraying that quick start stuff in your manifold and it usually starts up... this makes me think theres a fuel problem... even though you have fuel pressure to the rail, isnt that driven by the pump itself? The injectors still need to fire for the car to start, correct? So... you claim you have spark... but if your injectors arent firing maybe due to low voltage/high resistance or something due to heat, then it wont start... but put that qwik start stuff in and you have fuel and spark and it starts like a "carbed" engine... engine starts moving, alternator starts pumping up the volts/amps whatever and you have enough power to the injectors to keep running now?
I have no idea if thats logical or makes sense to others, but just an idea...
also, does your tach move when you're cranking?[This message has been edited by doublec4 (edited 10-24-2008).]
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bubbajoexxx
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OCT 24, 06:14 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by Fiero2m8:
I have been pulling my hair out trying to fix my NO START WHEN WARM condition with the LT1.
So far no help from the www.CamaroZ28.com forum
I guess it wouldn't hurt to post a copy here since this thread is in the Tech section.
Here's what I posted there...
Hi Guys,
Long time lurker, first time poster since the search feature hasn't helped.
I have a 1994 iron head LT1 in my Fiero that I built a couple years ago.
It is 60 over, with forged pistons, new accel injectors, MSD Optispark, mild Nitrous friendly cam for the NX LT1-Pro Direct Pro 100-300 Nitrous kit. The rest of the recently rebuilt engine is stock except hugger headers. The ECM has been replaced (92/93 ODBI) and is using a Street and Performance custom chip and wiring harness.
This summer after no changes to the motor in a year, I developed a hard/no start condition when the engine is up to operating temp.
I replaced the ICM and changed the NGK TR6 plugs to fresh TR55's. I thought it was grounds or charging system but none of those fixes have helped. I later discovered it is fuel related as a small spray of Quik Start on the K&N filter will cause the engine to start. Also the MSD digital - 6 box light shows spark during cranking and it starts fine when cold (using a powermaster 9004 starter and a OPTIMAX red top).
Could I possiby be getting vapour lock? The fuel pressure is good with key on and during cranking. I have tried both a stock LT1 PROM chip and the custom one and no change (the main difference is the custom chip helps the idle as I only have 12Hg/in at idle with the new cam).
The engine ran great for a couple years, so I don't know what has failed. The fuel pump is a Holley Walbro 255LPH. I have a GM Tech I scanner and no codes or unusual stuff seem to show up.
Help, as I'm running out of ideas and money and am considering parting out the powertrain. I can start it cold and drive around fine, but if I shut it off after it's warm it won't start on its own again until its cold.
Haynes manual says to check this when hard to start warm:
1. Air filter dirty - tried removing (no change)
2. Bad engine ground connection - added a second (no change)
3. Fuel not reaching the injectors - confirmed (no change)
4. Loose connection in the ignition system - tried omiting MSD box (no change)
New stuff I installed:
1. Fuel filter (no change)
2. Ignition Coil - (did run smoother on cold startup but didn't help when hot)
3. O2 sensors (no change)
4. New Battery (old one dies within 30 secs of cranking)
5. New full tank of fuel (no change)
Tests I ran:
1. Fuel Pressure (47psi when pump turned on then drops to 42 and holds)
2. Disconnected Nitrous line to ensure no fuel leakage into manifold (none)
3. Removed vacuum line from FPR to ensure no fuel leakage into manifold (none)
4. Tried retarding the timing 20 degrees during cranking under 500 rpm (no change)
5. Tried the suggestion with the key on 5 times for 5 secs each (no change)
6. Tried to start when hot with the pedal to the floor - flood clearing mode (no start)
I know that the problem is heat related but not sure it's heat internal to the engine or engine compartment heat - I did relocate the ICM and coil to a cooler spot away from the engine.
So after all that I've got nothing to show for it - same problem.
Once its up to temp, I can shut it off and immediately restart usually with success.
If it doesn't catch immediately or if I let it sit off a couple minutes, it's toast until the engine in left alone a 1/2 hour.
Spraying a little Quik Start in the intake manifold is the only chance I have to start unless you wait the 1/2 hour.
When I'm lucky and it does start, it idles and revs fine so it is only a starting issue.
I guess I'll just wait until someone posts for me to change my Optispark (for the 3rd time) or install a new CTS...
Cheers,
Ryan
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when it starts with q start after being hot you have vapor lock no ifs ands or buts when the heat gets upther in the engine bay it evaporates the fuel in the injecter lines it holds pressure but there is no liquid fuel to burn and no start as the engine cools the fuel re liquifies and it starts
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Fiero2m8
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OCT 24, 09:21 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by doublec4:
Where did you add your second ground?
Also, does your tach move when you're cranking?
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Grounds are Battery to frame and two Engine to frame.
The tach does move while cranking.
| quote | Originally posted by Fiero2m8:
Could I possibly be getting vapour lock?
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| quote | Originally posted by bubbajoexxx:
when it starts with q start after being hot you have vapor lock no ifs ands or buts when the heat gets upther in the engine bay it evaporates the fuel in the injecter lines it holds pressure but there is no liquid fuel to burn and no start as the engine cools the fuel re liquifies and it starts |
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Well, I am leaning towards that too although it's doing it in this cool weather after running 5 minutes with the decklid open.
Other logical issue is this didn't happen for two years of driving until one day something broke and stranded me at the LCBO 
The Camaro forum guys are leaning towards a cheap ICM I bought at Parts Source instead of the AC Delco one.
Here's the link to that discussion:
http://www.camaroz28.com/fo...wthread.php?t=643587
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e30tech
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OCT 24, 12:27 PM
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