ecotec swap (Page 40/98)
wftb FEB 24, 05:51 PM
this is the ridge that developed on my old pads :

the new pads sit much much better on the new rotors .i installed a tomtom GPS in the car today .i offset it to the right as i am thinking of getting a different boost controller .the AEM unit is not user friendly at all as far as i am concerned .my turbo does not develop boost unless it is under load so at this point all i know is that it is reading pressure .cant tell if it is actually controlling untill spring time .

fierodeletre FEB 26, 12:24 AM
hey wftb:

Do you know if all ecotecs have the same bolt pattern? I'm thinking of picking up a 2.4 and doing like you did with the wiring, (ie keeping all the stock stuff) and using roger's kits for the mounts and shifter. Thing is, I'm not sure if the 2.4 came with an F23 stock, or if it didn't, if an F23 would bolt up to a 2.4. Main reason being that Roger's shifter kit is for the F23 and I know the F35 is much more complex to adapt. I know the 2.4 has VVT and drive by wire TB, and I've read somewhere that it has a forged crank but cast rods, but I can't confirm this. Another downside to the 2.4 route is that it's a far less common engine in yards than is the 2.2. As far as I know, only the G5 GT, the non-super Cobalt SS, and the Non-turbo solstice and Sky have this engine, and these are certainly lower volume cars that those that have the 2.2. Heck, they might even be lower volume than the 2.0 liter versions. Any guidance on this?

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Kermit- "So you like your drums huh?"
Animal- "Oh yeah! Mwah Mwah Mwah" (kissing drum set)
Kermit- "Uh huh. More than food, huh?"
Animal- "They ARE food! Eat Drums! Eat Cymbals!" (eating noises)
Kermit- "Hm. How 'cymbal'-ic!"
Animal- (looking abused) "BAD PUN!"

wftb FEB 26, 09:59 AM
the 2.4 has a better crank and better rods .it was an opton motor in cobalts , i dont think it was ever put in to the cavalier .all ecotecs have the same bolt pattern and share the same architecture IE a 2.4 head will fit a 2.2 , exhaust manifolds interchange etc .most differences are in the oil pans .they vary a lot .if the 2.4 has the f35 then you need the axles that they come with on a cobalt .the stock motor on the cobalt ss model is the 2.4 .the turbo and old super charged motors are/were optional .
fierodeletre MAR 02, 12:47 AM
Ok so next question: Is that bolt pattern the same for GM's new high-feature V6 engines? The 3.6L DI VVT and such?

------------------
Kermit- "So you like your drums huh?"
Animal- "Oh yeah! Mwah Mwah Mwah" (kissing drum set)
Kermit- "Uh huh. More than food, huh?"
Animal- "They ARE food! Eat Drums! Eat Cymbals!" (eating noises)
Kermit- "Hm. How 'cymbal'-ic!"
Animal- (looking abused) "BAD PUN!"

Fosgatecavy98 MAR 02, 10:35 PM
I run the 2.4L bottom end, with the 2.2L head, One of the big differences with them is the L61 and LE5 ecotecs have a 6 bolt crank for the flywheel, the LSJ (2.0sc) runs a 8 bolt.

I also am using the 2.2L oil pan on my 2.4L, I didnt find any differences.


And no the ecotecs do not share any of the v6 patterns.
fierodeletre MAR 04, 01:43 AM
Foz- have you noticed in your travels what manual tranny they tend to attach to the 2.4?

------------------
Kermit- "So you like your drums huh?"
Animal- "Oh yeah! Mwah Mwah Mwah" (kissing drum set)
Kermit- "Uh huh. More than food, huh?"
Animal- "They ARE food! Eat Drums! Eat Cymbals!" (eating noises)
Kermit- "Hm. How 'cymbal'-ic!"
Animal- (looking abused) "BAD PUN!"

Fosgatecavy98 MAR 07, 12:47 AM

quote
Originally posted by fierodeletre:

Foz- have you noticed in your travels what manual tranny they tend to attach to the 2.4?




I believe its the same as the 2.2s

Actually all the motors ive looked at for ecotec stuff have all been autos
wftb MAR 14, 07:03 PM
the 2.0 motors have different oil pans .i have been waiting on parts to get back on the road now that it has mostly stopped snowing and the salt trucks are not out as much .i needed to rebuild my steering rack . i took it all apart and got the parts from rodney dickman .not a fun job but i had developed slop on the passenger side that caused jumping around on rough roads .i made a removal / install tool with some 3/4 rod , two nuts and two washers .you have to round off the one nut with a grinder so it will fit inside the rack tube .once you do that you slip it in where thepinion sits and slide the rod in and thread it on .then put the two washers on the rod at the bearing end and tighten until the bushing pops loose .to install the new bearing just get it started by hand and then slide the full size nut up against it and put the washers and the rounded nut (or a normal nut , i should have bought 3 ) at the pinion end and tighten untill the bearing hits tight to the shoulder inside the rack tube .here are some pictures that explain this i hope .i am sure someone makes a puller but i dont have one .




so the rack is now back on the car and it is ready to drive again as soon as i put the wheels back on .but i am still waiting on my flushmounts from norms fibreglass .he said he would get them to me before april so they should show up soon .
wftb MAR 20, 11:59 PM
i got the steering rack back on and took it for a ride to day .it ran pretty good but the boost controller operated eratically .i tried a bunch of times to set it up according to the instructions but every time the boost levels were unpredictable .so i removed the solinoid from the line that goes from the charge pipe to the waste gate and replaced it with a straight hose .now max boost will be 8 psi but it should be fairly steady and not spike like i was seeing .so my boost controller is now just an expensive guage .oh well it does look nice .
wftb MAR 24, 10:41 PM
with the turbo now back to its stock configuration the boost guage now shows 10.75 psi of boost maximum .since i was planning on running a max of 12 psi , i am going to leave it the way it is and not bother with a different boost controller .with the new intake and charge piping system i am running now the boost builds very quickly from 2000 rpm in top gear .from a standstill the boost is there as soon as you punch it .so i am happy with the power level .scans show everything working pretty good , a little KR but i am not too worried about that .i am going to look at my old tune and lean it out a bit on the PE table .with the FMU upping the fuel pressure under boost i dont need the computer enriching it too .i need a wide band O2 , that is going to be my next purchase .it will hook up to my HP tuners interface .