Measured up and had the local sheet metal guy "Larry" make me up a shelf to drop in the hole.

Installed the shelf and it fits very well - I'll give a plus rating to anyone who correctly guesses what it is for.

1. I determined the stock setup wasn't sufficient in a V8 Fiero with a roof, so removing the roof (including the rear speakers) required some upgrades to be able to hear it while driving.
2. This a home build budget - not Unique Whips, so no JL audio etc. and so far no manufacturers have donated and shipped me free product like Overhaulin' etc.
3. I have 2- Pioneer CD 50x4 decks now I can use - I am probably going with the older one even though it doesn't flip down because it has a roadster friendly detachable face plate.
4. I wanted to use components that are available at local big box stores for value pricing and convenience.
5. Rather than a mix match system I had the opportunity to use components all from the same manufacturer - in this case Pioneer.

Here are the components I am adding and need to find a location to install them.

4 - 4x10 2-way speakers

2 - 10" subs

1 - 2-channel amp for the subs

Installing 2 4x10's in the dash was easy - they drop right in:

The subs and rear 4x10's on the other hand are a different story...

Here are a few shots of them installed:

Canadian beer in the background

Close up of passenger side install

Driver's side

Trim in place

This achieves my goal of a stock looking interior with no visible speakers.

Fiero2m8

Here is the battery setup:

And some overall shots from different views:

I'm pretty happy with the end result as it looks tidy and neat.
The battery ground exits the bottom of the box through the frame and bolted to the frame rail.
The positive exits the rear of the box and through an existing hole to follow the heater tubes to the starter.
There is room to cover everything up with the sunroof panel to give you a idea of the clearance to the body.

Here are the some parts replaced when the trans was beefed up:
Old 2.84 final drive to make room for the new 3.33 ratio unit.
Old sprockets and chain as a new 37/32 teeth combo was used to get an overall ratio of 3.73

The switch will be swapped so it is plug and play with my harness - one hole will need to be slotted slightly.

The dipstick from the TH125c would give the proper clearance to the trunk but the bracket doesn't line up so I'll pick up a 4T60 tube off a mid to late 80's Pontiac or Buick with the 4T60 trans.

Since I went with a 1990 STS 4T60, it had a pulse type VSS so I need to grab the older version 4T60 cap and VSS while I'm getting the dipstick, tranny brackets, and a 5 pin trans plug at the wreckers.

Once I have the 4T60 unit, I can drop it in after swapping out this green gear from my TH125c unit.
I was hoping to install the new cap 180 degrees from stock so I have better clearance from the header flange - does anyone know if it will still work properly?
Otherwise I will probably have to modify the header and exhaust to keep the plug from melting.

Next I plan to put the carpeting back in the car, re-install fuel filler pipe and look for a place to install the cooling pipes now that the X-frame is installed.

Fiero2m8

Had a little mishap with the rear deck - it was propped up and the garage door damaged it while opening.
Before fixing it, I am going to look for one without luggage rack holes that would save me a lot of time filling them.

The last thing I got to this weekend was to add some foam that I can build my fiberglass off of to smooth out the B-pillar areas.