IMSA widebody installation - Russ style (Page 4/56)
fierogt4e SEP 13, 12:55 AM
WOW!!!!
HOLY SH##
You have blown my F&&&ing mind.
I have also done this to my IMSA (85 GT/4E)
I am very excited to see another person customizing and updating this body style
I realy want to see what you will do next to refine the body and thanks for showing it to us.
VERY cool indead !
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Sincerely
George
www.switch-tray.com

edit; used words instead of photos

[This message has been edited by fierogt4e (edited 09-15-2004).]

Vonov SEP 13, 02:43 AM
Can you say Bad-axe notchback??? Nice pix...I like the blue and white too...

Back to our host...take it away, Russ...

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88 Formula, "Asphalt Aviator"

"I've seen em---they're little fellers. You know, the Artesians..."
---caretaker at Olympia Brewery

Russ544 SEP 17, 10:15 PM
Another abbreviated chapter today, but I have two days ahead of me with no obligations other than working on the IMSA project so perhaps a better chapter will follow by Monday.
Today I worked out a solution for the fuel filler, which with the IMSA fender becomes recessed about 4" deeper, and lacks any provision for an outer fuel door. my trusty air reciprocating saw was used to remove the abbreviated cup provided (taped back into the fender for this photo).

I wanted to utilize the Fiero flipper door, so some modifications were in order. I first thought of extending the metal fuel tube, but upon more detailed investigation I found it to be more work than I was willing to devote to it. The new filler opening doesn't line up with the old filler well enough to simply extend the metal pipe without a tricky curve. but by carefully removing most of the bottom of the fuel filler "cup", ......

there is now room to reach the fuel cap without too much effort.
The areas originally used to secure the fuel cup to the fender are now out of reach, so I plan to bond my modified fuel cup, which retains areas used to support the cover latch and hinge mechanisms, to the fiberglass fender with the same 3M body panel adhesive used to attach the substructure to the rear clip fiberglass. Now when the filler door gets reinstalled everything will function the same as the stock unit, compleat with interior door release.


<front facia and fender installations come next>

[This message has been edited by Russ544 (edited 07-07-2009).]

NotAFieroAnyLonger SEP 18, 02:34 AM
Lookin' GREAT Russ!!

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*Custom-Shaved HandBuilt!!*
*FIRST-EVER CHOPTOP-WIDEBODY GT!!*
(( 4.9L-V8-5speed)) swap soon
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Will SEP 18, 07:39 AM

quote
Originally posted by Russ544:
The areas originally used to secure the fuel cup to the fender are now out of reach, so I plan to bond my modified fuel cup, which retains areas used to support the cover latch and hinge mechanisms, to the fiberglass fender with the same 3M body panel adhesive used to attach the substructure to the rear clip fiberglass. Now when the filler door gets reinstalled everything will function the same as the stock unit, compleat with interior door release.

Just out of curiosity, once you do that, are you going to be able to remove the rear clip, should it be required at some point in the future?

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Turn the key and feel the engine shake the whole car with its lope; Plant the gas pedal and feel in your chest neither a shriek nor a wail but a bellowing roar; Lift and be pushed into the harness by compression braking that only comes from the biggest cylinders while listening to music of pops and gurgles. Know that you are driving and American V8. There are finer engines made, but none of them are this cool.

Luck, Fate and Destiny are words used by those who lack the courage to define their own future

Russ544 SEP 18, 10:20 AM

quote
Originally posted by Will:


Just out of curiosity, once you do that, are you going to be able to remove the rear clip, should it be required at some point in the future?


Yes. even though it's bonded to the body panel now, the fuel filer "cup" has had it's base removed so it no longer captures the metal fuel filler tube (plus the metal filler is now below where the base was anyway). The three sheet metal screws which retain the metal fuel tube to the rear clip substructure can still be removed if one should need to pull the rear clip.

Russ

[This message has been edited by Russ544 (edited 09-18-2004).]

gascarracer SEP 18, 11:52 AM
You are doing a fantasic job. Keep it comming. Thanks.

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Ernie

1988 Silver GT
One owner 47000 miles.
Soon to be a 3.4 DOHC powered.

blackrams SEP 18, 04:53 PM
Outstanding thread, has given me several ideas that may get used on my Pantero project. Hope you don't mind. The gas filler is one that I've been trying to figure out. Keep up the great work.

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Ron
aka: Blackrams

Russ544 SEP 18, 06:47 PM

quote
Originally posted by blackrams:

Outstanding thread, has given me several ideas that may get used on my Pantero project. Hope you don't mind. The gas filler is one that I've been trying to figure out. Keep up the great work.


Glad to hear people are getting some usefull info and ideas out of this.
The process of observing others creations and then devising "but I'd do this part a little different here" ideas is what hot rodding is all about IMHO.

Russ544 SEP 18, 11:40 PM
CHAPTER 7
Not a bad day........ The front wheel openings received an enlargement similar to the rears, but the same process as used on the rear, with the temporary aluminum strip "molds", was used to replace the lip in the front wheel opening so I won't repeat those details.

Wile the resin set up on the fenders I went ahead and permanently secured the rear clip. It took 18 1/4" rivets and 7 bolts, + the 8 bolts/nuts that hold the rear facia and fenders to one another, so she's solid as a rock now !

I had originally intended to paint the parts individually, but for a variety of reasons I've decided to change my assembly process, requireing that I paint everything except the front and rear decklids wile on the car. One reason for the change is that I've decided to permanently attach the lower rockers to the front and rear fenders, and fill in the gaps, for a smooth look. also, I've had some trouble with bondo cracking at the upper B piller joint each time the rear clip is removed and replaced on the car, so painting it wile installed seems like a better idea today .
Wile I had the front clip setting on the car doing preliminary checks, I found that the hood opening is almost 1/4" too wide on each side, so it will be necessary to epoxy a strip of fiberglass onto each side of the hood and fill/sand for an acceptable gap...... I'm getting ahead of myself however as that may still be a few chapters down the road......


<to be continued>

[This message has been edited by Russ544 (edited 07-07-2009).]