Pantera parts ! (Page 39/75)
motoracer838 OCT 27, 08:46 PM
bump
ly41181 OCT 28, 02:52 AM
All I can say is WOW! Love your write up on the powder coating and fiberglassing your battery box. Hope all is well.

Josh
opm2000 OCT 28, 08:03 PM
Josh,
Thanks, yes, all is well. BTW, we need to hook up sometime, maybe the next Bluegrass Fiero meet.



Progress made on the secret weapon. The trunk cutout was fine tuned and amazingly, everything fits with gobs of working space. The tilting rear-clip version of the Pantera uses a strut tower brace, upon which the trunk latch/release is remounted. So I wasn't too concerned about cutting out the forward wall of the trunk, and the structural cross member at the top of that cutout.

Nonetheless, I rebuilt the cross member. A small bit more will be added to what you see here, but this alone is very stout. Final cleanup and painting will be done when the engine/cradle are pulled for the last time.



That strut tower brace is not in place in any of these photos. But Blackrams came over and we reinstalled the rear clip to check clearances.



The strut tower brace clears the LT1 intake by 3/8"+. The rear clip closes and opens just fine. And there is plenty of clearance at the front for easy access to all plumbing, shift cable, throttle cable, wiring, etc. This installation even uses the stock LT! exhaust manifolds, and they clear just fine.

The remaining item to check with the rear clip on was clearance for the Supertrapp exhaust, both when the rear clip is closes, and tilted back.



This is what the size Supertrapps that I have look like, more or less in position. The exhaust opening in the rear clip will have to be elongated a couple of inches more, or we'll use the shorter Supertrapps, or maybe a combination of the two.

BTW, reguarding this type install using the thm325/375/425 trans, everyone allways asks how much of the trunk do you have to cut out.



About this much



The rest of the day was spent routing the various plumbing systems back into the front of the Choptop Pantera. Tranny lines, brake lines, AC lines, radiator, condenser, etc. Hopefully this will allow reassembling the front suspension tomorrow.

More pics tomorrow night.

David Breeze

madcurl OCT 28, 09:35 PM

quote
Originally posted by opm2000:

The exhaust opening in the rear clip will have to be elongated a couple of inches more, or we'll use the shorter Supertrapps, or maybe a combination of the two.

More pics tomorrow night.

David Breeze



Hehe. You said, "Elongated." j/k.

Nice choptop build.
motoracer838 NOV 12, 08:34 PM
bump
opm2000 NOV 13, 09:58 AM


Funny how details can slow you down when least expected. The sender in the Choptop Pantera fuel tank looked like toast, and cleaning it up per the many posts on the forum didn't make the ohmeter readings any better. So I planned to use the sender from an '86 4cyl tank. That sender read ok, and the fuel lines turned towards the driver's side to boot. But upon actual assembly many problems arose. The bracket that holds the fuel pump has a different foot (fixed that) and it's a different length ( so the pump and pulsator didn't look very sturdy when installed ) and the final blow : the whole assembly is about 1/2" longer than the v6 sender, so it wouldn't fit into the tank.

I had used the por-15 gas tank clean & slosh kit to clean up the '88 fuel tank, and with it's larger capacity, I really wanted to use it. So I did some major surgery on the fuel sender and found what is shown in the above pic. I've never seen this in sender clean up threads before. I found a major, major location of corrosion in the electrical connection of the float arm and the sender body. To get to it you unbend two metal tabs, and then you have to remove the flared out plastic of the sender body in two places where it attaches to the assembly tree. This allows you to expose the large contact area between the float and the body. Otherwise the area is virtually inaccessable.

It took some major effort to clean the corrosion. Then the only thing left to reassemble the deal is the two metal tabs, but they looked ok.



So the proper sender tree was reused, fitted with a new pump & pulsator that fit very solidly, and the sender had good ohmeter readings. I used two layers of 1/8" cork sheeting to make new anti-squeek pads, and the fuel tank was finally good to go.



After the tank was installed I had flushed out both the AC lines and the heater lines, and they were reinstalled. Next came the auto tranny coolant lines to the front radiator. After wasting three days trying to make the stainless lines from the Fierostore fit, I gave up and purchased some 5/8 stainless steel line from Summitt Racing, and made my own lines. If you have an '84-'87 auto, I think the Fierostore lines would be ok. But for an '88, no way. Anyhow, finally these homemade lines were routed parallel to the driver's side radiator coolant pipe, and they fit just fine.



Next was painting the parts of the calipers which I couldn't powdercoat. Real nice kit with cleaner and paint. It takes several coats of paint, but looks nice when done.



And finally the assembly of the front suspension began. I generally gob on excess amounts of the poly grease, and wipe away the squeeze out after assembly. Never had a squeek. It's handy to have a variety of clamps when pushing poly. If you look closely you'll also see Rodney's 1" lowering balljoints. These were pressed in at NAPA, and I migged four tack welds around the top of each one.



When all is done I'll have to paint the parts that weren't powdercoated. Turns out Rustoleum Red matches the powder I used. How nice.



I again spent way too much time figuring out which way the caliper adapter brackets went. But finally that too was done. I haven't fully assembled the calipers yet, but that is next.



Although I can't say anything good about the tranny lines from the Fierostore, I will say their stainless brake line kit fit like a glove. This was installed, and the front compartment started taking shape. Heater lines, AC lines, brake lines, tranny cooler lines, and engine coolant lines are now in place. I installed pvc grommets where the battery cables go thru the front firewall and ran them into the front bay. So now the spare tire pan and battery tray are ready to go in. Finally



A couple of quick shots this morning, just to see how things were shaping up:







So it looks like a few more evenings this week and I can set the front end back down on the floor. Next up will be the final assembly of the engine & drivetrain. Can't wait

David Breeze

[This message has been edited by opm2000 (edited 11-13-2006).]

opm2000 NOV 20, 11:54 AM


Things are moving along. I filled the torque converter with 1 qt of trans fluid and fit it onto the transmission. Then I used the cherry picker to mate the engine & trans. Next I installed the rear trans mount and the "front" engine mount.






Then it was pretty much a matter of attaching to the cradle and adding the front trans mount. After everything was torqued down it looked like this:






I measured for the serpentine belt, and amazingly, NAPA had one in stock this morning. If it fits then installing the various plumbing items and the Ed Park's harness are next.

It feels good to begine reassembly

David Breeze
blackrams NOV 24, 09:01 AM
Bump, just cause, no other reason, just cause.

------------------
Ron
Land of the Free because of the Brave. Most gave some, some gave all.
My imagination is the only limiting factor to my Fiero. Well, there is that money issue.

PerKr NOV 29, 10:56 AM
this is interesting. out of my reach, but interesting
opm2000 NOV 29, 11:26 AM
PerKr,
Maybe not so out of reach. I actually recieved a mold for a Pantera front airdam from a creative fellow in Sweden. I'd be interested in knowing what the real shipping costs would be. It proably would be a painful figure, but you never know untill you ask. If anyone knows of a contact to begin with, I'd look into it.

David Breeze