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| Pantera parts ! (Page 37/75) |
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exoticse
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JUL 09, 08:19 PM
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One of the coolest ongoing projects on the forum.
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motoracer838
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AUG 02, 09:42 PM
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opm2000
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AUG 03, 05:41 AM
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bubbajoexxx
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AUG 03, 08:16 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by opm2000:
They say a picture is worth a thousand words 
Hunt didn't need the boat after he caught this one!
And we caught 50 of these in one day
Sadly, after returning from the north country, I had to deal with the harsh Fiero realities of life. My daily driver 3.4 had developed an apparant vacum leak which I just couldn't trace down....so I decided to pull a good running 2.8 from another car and swap it into my daily driver. There are priorities and having a good running fairly fuel efficent daily driver is way up there. Anyhow, I should be able to get back into the Pantera building thing this weekend.
David Breeze
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nice northern pike and at that size delicious eating
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motoracer838
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AUG 26, 12:25 PM
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bubbajoexxx
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AUG 27, 05:17 PM
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mega bump need a progress report please
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Gokart
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AUG 27, 06:55 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by opm2000:
Sadly, after returning from the north country, I had to deal with the harsh Fiero realities of life. My daily driver 3.4 had developed an apparant vacum leak which I just couldn't trace down....so I decided to pull a good running 2.8 from another car and swap it into my daily driver. There are priorities and having a good running fairly fuel efficent daily driver is way up there. Anyhow, I should be able to get back into the Pantera building thing this weekend.
David Breeze
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Is this the 87GT you bought from me in 2000? If so, how many miles does she have now!
Marc
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opm2000
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AUG 28, 09:38 AM
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Gentlemen,
Thanks for the kind bumps. Yep Gokart, that's the GT I bought from you. It suffered a broken timing chain after my son ran it for two years, so we swapped in what turned out to be a real stout 3.4. Loved that, but recently it developed a vacum leak which I couldn't solve without pulling the motor, so we just swapped the 103,000 mi. 2.8 out of the yellow Pantera. The GT now has 165,300 on the chassis.
I actually had to install the 2.8 twice, since I cheap-od out and tried to use the existing clutch plate that was on the 2.8 ( it had a 4spd trans ). Upon firing up, it sounded like a wheelbarrow of steel was being dumped behind the GT. I pulled the 2.8, expecting to see a destroyed throwout bearing, but found this:
Turns out this was a remanufactured clutch plate, and the two circled rivets had been repaired by putting the steel squares over the rivet holes, and riveting & welding them on. The heads of the rivets are @ 1/16" higher than the others. Worked fine in a 4spd trans, but in the 5spd they found interference along the backwall of the bellhousing. Oh well, new clutch solved the problem and it runs like a top.
Mostly, I've been doing normal Fiero-type stuff. The chassis is up high enough to get underneath and chassis paint everything.
And all brake lines, coolant lines, heater & AC lines are off for cleanup & paint. The AC components are out for flushing & conversion, and the radiator is out for replacement.
The front end parts have been sandblasted for powdercoating:
I typically degrease parts with a parts washer and sandblast once. Then inspect and re-sandblast, in order to get all old paint or surface off. Notice that the front knuckles have oxidised just setting overnight. In my experience, the powdercoat takes best on a thoroughly clean surface.
And I did get the door popper and remote opener solenoid installed and working on the driver's side door:
Rember the yellow Pantera?
It's in position for installation of "the secret weapon":
I live about 4 miles off the departure end of 22 at Bluegrass Field. There was a terrible crash about a mile off the end, right before sunrise yesterday. Pray for the 49 souls.
David Breeze
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opm2000
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SEP 04, 06:29 AM
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A few folks have asked about homebrew powdercoating, so here's my $0.02 worth. It's real easy and a suprisingly forgiving process. You need to follow a few simple proceedures and be aware of a few precautions.
The dust is insidious, it gets everywhere. I transferr powder from the plastic zip bags I recieve it in....into the gun bottles....using a small dipper. Small enough to fit within the mouth of the bottle. Even pouring directly out of the zip bag will raise a dust like you wouldnt believe.
Wear at least some sort of dust mask or respirator whenever handling the dust. Longsleves, gloves, a hat....it depends on your tolerance levels I guess, but you will experience dust.
I shoot my parts outside of my shop, in a very simple booth. Just find a big cardboard box big enough to house your biggest objects. I shot a few parts inside my shop, and spent a week finding red dust. Same goes for the oven. Just don't do it in your house unless you want an immediate divorce. And I only tried it inside my shop once. My oven sets outside where it can vent safely, and is covered with a tarp when not in use.
And the same goes for the sandblasting. It's a very messy process. I do most of my sandblasting outside, away out back. If you have a booth or sandblast box, so much the better, but it still raises a lot of dust.
Enough. The general process is to clean the part by degreasing, and remove old paint & rust, usually by sandblasting. I use either a mineral spirits parts washer or the purple degreaser from NAPA & water rinse. After parts are washed, handle with gloves. Sandblasting is to remove rust & old paint, and it gives a good "tooth" to the surface for the powder to adhere to. Newly welded fresh steel parts may not need sandblasting, but they do need degreasing.
Here you see a control arm, rubber bushing removed and then sandblasted. Heat proof tape is put on anywhere you don't want powder, like inside the bushing area, or the rim where the front joint is to be pressed in. Figure out how to handle the part for suspending in & out of the spray booth, and in & out of the oven. Mostly use the wire S hooks that come with the kit, and use safety wire where needed to help the s hook out.
Once the powder is on the part you don't want to brush it, and when it comes to hanging that part inside a hot oven, you need to have figured out how to move the part.
Welding gloves and a couple of pair of longnose pliers makes moving hot parts a lot easier.
The baisc el cheapo powdercoat gun kit:
You will need to supply compressed air to the gun. Only 10 psi, so make sure you can regulate it down that much, and it must be dry air. My set up goes thru three pressure regulators and a pipe drying manifold before reaching the gun, so I know I have 10psi when I dial it up. If you can see water mist when you blow parts off with your compressed air, it has water in it. You need to have dry air. A final line drier usually comes with the kit.
Here is a sandblasted knuckle hanging a bit too high in the spray booth. I hung it a bit lower on another s hook before shooting it. Notice it has tape inside the bore where the bearing presses. And most of the other holes are plugged with silicone heat resistant plugs, which come with the kit. Once again, these plugs keep powder out of places you don't want it.
The powder likes dry storage. Shooting it amounts to filling the gun bottle about 1/3 full, attaching the grounding wire clip to either the part or I usually try to clip onto the supporting s hook, and stepping on the power pedal for the power unit. Triggering the gun after that results in a poofing cloud of powder. Waving the gun around the part helps, and concentrating on tight corners first seems best. You can stop, reposition the hang of the part, and resume shooting. Just try not to disturb the powder, and remember to trigger the ground pedal. The dust is everywhere, so do wear your PPE. After shooting the part, take the ground clip, touch it to the gun tip to release the static charge, and shut it off.
Now transferr the part to the oven without disturbing the powder. The oven doesn't have to be preheated. Some items can be placed on the oven rack. Anyhow, generally, the powder wants 400 degrees for 20 minutes, after the part reaches 400. I use an infrared temp gun. My throw away oven heats, but the thermostat does not work, and I'd suggest you not kid yourself and trust any oven thermostat. Get an infrared thermometer gun. After 20 minutes, remove the part and hang it elsewhere to cool.
Some parts may need preheating to outgass oils, etc, especially if they are aluminum and aused items, like brake calipers maybe. All this means is precleaning, and putting into the oven and heating up to 500 for a bit. Ideally the bad stuff outgasses, and after it cools, you reclean if needed, shoot powder and bake, the evil stuff won't bubble out and ruin your work. It only happend to me once, but I learned :>
Here's a brake rotor that actually cooling, but I wanted to show you the masking required for it. Most parts require no masking, just shoot them. Others are a pain. Here tape was put on the brake dis itself, and inside the center hole, and plugs were put into the holes for the 5x100 bolt pattern. BTW, this is a Corvette rotor for '88 using Fiero calipers.
Next, masking paper was taped around the previously applied heat tape. The rotor is supported in the booth, groung connected, and paper & tape & plugs mask everything but the metal to be powdercoated. The tricky part is removing the paper after the powder is shot. And this part is laid on the oven rack for heating.
After heating, the part is removed for cooling, and finally the plugs & heat tape are removed:
When you switch colors you have to clean the gun out real well. Mostly this is done with compressed air, but it takes a bit, and it sure raises the dust. You can load your oven up with as many parts as it will hold, but they should all be about the same size or weight. Don't put a knuckle ans several small washers in together. Teh washers would be cooked before the knuckle even came up to temperature.
That ought to be enough to get you going if you've been thinking about doing your own powdercoating. Or maybe this is enough to convince you to use one of the powercoaters on the forum. Have fun.
David Breeze
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datacop
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SEP 05, 10:53 AM
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