[This message has been edited by DeLorean00 (edited 04-01-2008).]

quote Originally posted by HC: Badass man, one of the pimpest Fieros around here!

Thanks for the compliment HC - Pennocks has dozens of Fiero's I drool over, so I appreciate that you're a fan of my build.
My goal has been to be unique for around here in Niagara and I think I've been successful since there are so few Fiero's left.


This weekend I started the job I'd been procrastinating done for a year because it's a pain in the ass - replacing the flexplate (flywheel).
However, it has to be done for two reasons:

1) The teeth are damaged causing starting issues
2) The newly rebuilt engine isn't properly balanced

The plan was to get it done before spring and what better time than while the rear suspension was already out.
After looking clearances over, I felt I would be able to get the 2 inches necessary to exchange the flexplate with the engine in the car - saving the time of taking the engine out.

I started by supporting the engine and trans with 2 floor jacks since I didn't have the overhead "come-along" chain available:




Next, I removed all fasteners, and the transmission to engine bracket and the trans mount/bracket (both Cadillac items).




With the axles removed, I was ready to jack up the engine/trans on the driver's side so that it would clear the engine cradle:




Unfortunately, I couldn't move the trans left to the frame rail until I removed the governor assembly that was hitting the collector flange, shown here:



To be safe from damages, I unplugged the electrical connections and disconnected the knock sensor / trans cooler lines.
Next, the six bolts on the flexplate could be removed and it was lifted out the top.
With Archie's adapter bolted on, I wasn't able to tell which of the six available positions to bolt the new one on because I needed to see the crank alignment pin first:




So off it came - here is the Archie adapter removed:
Be careful because the adapter only goes on one way as the 2 holes on either side of the alignment pin hole are further apart than the rest (3 and 5 o'clock in this pic)




Luckily the rear main seal isn't leaking after the new rebuild.
This is the end of the crank and you can easily see the extra hole that used to have the pin in it at the 4 o'clock position:




I used the original LT1 flexplate to double check rather than just looking at it since you can't see well from under the car.
An alignment mark on the outside of the adapter seemed like a good idea, so I scored it with a hacksaw as a reference of where the alignment hole (and weight) needs to go:




Here a great shot of just how bad the original flexplate was...I learned through trial and error how to properly align the Chevy Hi-Torque starter!




Next I did something really dumb - a Homer Simpson moment (DOH!)
When I was reaching my hand up to start the bolts, I blindly pushed one into the centre Torque Converter hole and couldn't get it out with a wire or magnet!
Solution was JB Quik Weld on the tip of my middle finger pushing on the head of the bolt in the hole for two minutes and then it came right out
I'm sure crazy glue on a stick would work too but I used what was within arms reach...

So, after about 4 hours by myself, the new flexplate is installed and I just need an assistant to help me realign the trans back onto the adapter plate guide pins.




With the tailshaft, the trans is unbalanced and awkard to align when it's out of the car, so I'm gonna wait for help on Tuesday night - any volunteers? (just kidding)

Ryan

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1986 Fiero2m8 (LT1 NX / 4T60 Roadster Build)
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/071642.html