Fiero 2m8 LT1 NX Roadster conversion (Page 31/46)
Fiero2m8 FEB 28, 11:52 PM

quote
Originally posted by Tusch:

Love the project, and I can't wait to see how those rims look.



Thanks - They're MSR style 093 new this year - check their site at:

http://www.msrwheels.com/au...r_wheels.cfm?id=360#

Specs are:
Size: 20 X 8.5
Pattern: 5X100mm
Offset: +40mm
Finish: Super Finish w/Black inserts and chrome lip

Haven't finalized tire sizes, but they will most likely be 30 series.
More progress on the front suspension dismantling - will post pics soon.

Fiero2m8 MAR 01, 10:40 AM
Good news, got the front control arms removed.
I ended up cutting bolts with a cut-off wheel at the front side near the head of the bolt.
Now I'll need new bolts/washers from the Fiero Store or the local Bolt and Nut Supply.

Here is what I did to make room for the cut-off wheel, so that the control and washers weren't damaged:




Upper Control Arm removed, so that I can start prepping for poly bushings:




Might get some new spring seats, but am still looking for front springs with 1 inch drop - everyone wants to sell you four:




Now I'm working on removing the Lower Control Arms, before moving the the rear suspension:




Does anyone know the size of the rear strut lower mounting nuts?
I'd like to pick up an impact socket for it rather than break stuff I already have...
wftb MAR 01, 11:14 AM
an easy way to get your old rubber bushings out is to use an old 3/16 drill bit and drill into the bushing right where it joins to the metal of the arm .then just let the drill bit walk around the bushing until it is loose enough to fall out .you might have to use a bigger ar smaller bit .a lot quicker than burning.dont foget to re use your upper control arm spacers in the same order you took them out . these are hardened and are your caster adjustment .make sure that the control arms and new poly bushings rotate together .they should rotate on the inner bushing .the bushing should never rotate on the bolt holding it .i used grease fittings and drilled rigt through the poly to the inner bushing .the threaded end of the fitting holds the poly and the hole lets the grease get to the bushing or sleeve i guess most people call it .hope this helps ,great thread ,i have followed from the beginning.
Fiero2m8 MAR 02, 02:43 PM
Thanks wftb, good tips there and glad you enjoy the thread, plus for you!

Some more progress yesterday on the front upper control arms.
I could have given them to a friend to bring to work and sandblast, but as I mentioned before I am trying POR-15 for the first time.
This is something I can do myself, and I wanted to try it out on something small.
I might eventually do the underside of the space frame if the results are good.
I am posting the pictures to show Fiero newbies and homebuilders this option.

So here we go, I started by removing loose rust and paint with a wire wheel on the cordless drill:




A file was used by hand to finish what the wire brush didn't remove:




I like the burning method of removing old bushings, it's a fun, quick and damage free method of removing them.
Within 30 seconds of burning the rubber mounts, the inner sleeve pops out on their own and a flat screwdriver takes the rubber out in one piece:




Any rubber residue is quickly removed with sandpaper:




I put the inner sleeves to be reused on a screwdriver and let the wire wheel clean them up:




Now for the 3 step POR system, first clean the metal with Marine Clean to ensure surface is free of grease:




Next the Metal Ready product is brushed on for 15 minutes, to prep areas without rust or smooth areas:




Once rinsed and dry, the POR-15 was brushed on with a sponge brush and a second coat applied while it was still tacky:




When cured, the surface is a hard glossy black chip free coating that seals out moisture preventing rust from coming through the finish:




Now they are ready for polyurethane bushings and new ball joints to be installed.

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 03-02-2008).]

Fiero2m8 MAR 03, 10:17 PM
I got the front lower control arms out tonight by cutting the bolts with the angle grinder.
The ball joints were removed with a small sledge and the spring tower is now ready for cleanup:




I measured the bolt with my electronic caliper and picked up the 24mm socket with 1/2" drive.
I had broke one of my two 3/8 Torque wrenchs and when I returned it to Canadian Tire they gave me the 1/2" drive one instead
Now I have one with 250in/lbs limit and the other with a 250ft/lbs limit - sweet :




The bolts came out easy and I removed the 3-13mm nuts in the shock tower and dropped the old struts out in prep for the new HT Motorsports adjustable rear coilovers:




Next, the front lower control arms with be refinished and poly bushings installed.

Fiero2m8
THE BEAST MAR 03, 10:39 PM
You have a new PM!

JG
Fiero2m8 MAR 04, 02:44 PM
I think I've finalized tire choice for the MSR rims - They are Falken FK452's and here are the specs:




Front Tire - 245/35R20
Rear Tire - 275/35R20

Front Section Width: 9.64 in 245 mm
Rear Section Width: 10.82 in 275 mm

Front Rim Diameter: 20 in 508 mm
Rear Rim Diameter: 20 in 508 mm

Front Rim Width Range: 8 - 9.5 in
Rear Rim Width Range: 9 - 11 in

Front Overall Diameter: 26.75 in 679.45 mm
Rear Overall Diameter: 27.57 in 700.27 mm

Front Sidewall Height: 3.37 in 85.598 mm
Rear Sidewall Height: 3.78 in 96.012 mm

Front Radius: 13.37 in 339.59 mm
Rear Radius: 13.78 in 350.01 mm

Front Circumference: 84.03 in 2134.3 mm
Rear Circumference: 86.61 in 2199.8 mm

Front Revs per Mile: 777.5
Rear Revs per Mile: 754.4

Front Actual Speed: 60 mph 100 km/h
Rear Speedometer1: 58.2 mph 97.0 km/h

Rear Speedometer Difference: - Speedometer Difference: 3.062% too slow
Rear Diameter Difference: - Diameter Difference: 2.98%

Here is a review of them - there are not many choices available in both these sizes.
http://www.onemotoring.com....t__falken_fk452.html

The Michelin Pilot PS2's have both size but are a lot pricer and the Toyo Proxes 4 are all season which are not needed for my roadster.
Fiero2m8 MAR 08, 09:11 PM
Well with the huge snowfall this weekend, it was a good day to work inside on finishing my front upper and lower control arms.
I am pleased to include new larger pictures in my thread that are still <100K in size.
Here is a scan of all the instructions and Fiero 84-87 kit lists complete with part numbers for future reference.
It explains how to properly grease everything and also how the thrust washers are to be installed on the lower control arms:




As you can see, although Prothane wants you to save all the hardware, I clearly found why my front end handled a little sloppy in the front end:




So I went to the Metal Supermarket to get a pipe I could make new inner bushings for the lower control arms.
I cut and grinded 4 of them to 60mm in length:




Here they are ready to go with the new 10.9 grade bolts and washer to replace the broken and cut original ones:




This is a great example of why my Avatar is of Homer's brain - I can be a moron sometimes
The instructions read "if the inner metal sleeve is not included in kit, then the original inner sleeve must be reused."
Somehow without checking, I forgot that the kit included new inner sleeves, so now I have an additional set




Here are the front upper contol arms completed with the ball joints and bushings installed.
I just need the new bolts to install them which I will have next week:




After the lower control arms were prepped and coated with POR-15, the new bushings, thrust washers and ball joints were installed:




Here they are ready to be bolted back on the car once I decide on a front spring solution (88's or Suspension Techniques drop springs).
See them here : http://www.jcwhitney.com/au...10000021896510194164




Also the spindles and upper spring perch will be getting the POR-15 treatment before reassembly

------------------

1986 Fiero2m8 (LT1 NX / 4T60 Roadster Build)
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/071642.html

Fiero2m8 MAR 19, 09:35 PM
Well as I predicted even after soaking the sway bar bolts with penetrating oil, all four snapped off using a small rachet with ease
So I picked up a couple cobalt bits to drill them out but I was wondering if I could just relocate the the sway bar 1/2" forward on the frame rails given the length of the sway bar end links?

Here is the restored sway bar ready for reinstallation:




I decided to remove the front hubs and steering knuckles for a good cleaning and repainting, so brake bleeding will be required later:
The calipers cleaned up well and I'm going to try the Dupli-color paint I had laying around on them:




I also got the rest of the hardened hardware I needed for reassembly, so I should have some more progress this weekend.
Biggest hold up right now is what I am going to use for new front springs.

Ryan

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 03-19-2008).]

Fiero2m8 MAR 26, 09:46 PM
All the spindles and calipers have been cleaned with the wire wheel and degreased with brake cleaner and marine clean.
They are ready for paint - the spindles will be black POR-15 and the calipers will be bright red.