One question for ya Steve .... Why the h**l would you build a 3100 turbo when every one knows those motors have a crap load of problems in the valve train and bottom end ..... Just a question ??

Hope the camaro is good that car was sweet ... Will be getting one soon !!
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BLUE BY YOU!
NYFOC

[This message has been edited by Hardpact (edited 10-10-2011).]

They don't... where do you get that info? Does this question have anything to do with the conversation at the show? The only common problem with the Gen III's is the lower intake manifold gasket leaks, but that is 100% corrected by replacing the gasket with a metal Felpro gasket and torquing it to the revised GM specs. IIRC, a lot of 3800's have that exact same gasket problem.
I have a coworker with over 300,000 miles on his Lumina with the original 3100 and it has never been opened up (the transmission is a different story, but I digress...)

Oh yeah, they do have valvetrain problems when two-faced jerks think they know everything then install pushrods that are too short because they don't need to be told how it's done. Ya got me there.

The Camaro is doing great, thanks. I still love driving it every day! You should love yours too, please PM me when you get it! I hope your Fiero is doing great too, that car is sweet.

[This message has been edited by ALLTRBO (edited 10-10-2011).]

[This message has been edited by bmwguru (edited 10-13-2011).]

I tried before, on the last page, to get over it and continue on (even ignoring Dave's last post on that page that was also full of either inaccurate accounts or outright lies), and I will eventually get over it for good, but I really am still pissed. I should be DRIVING this car right now as I should have been able to do away from that shop.
It isn't about money, it isn't just about a project car, it's about honestly, integrity, and seeing a man's true character when conflict arises.

quote Originally posted by bmwguru: First off, your car wasn't mentioned at the show. Second, I built the motor to your specs and argued with you every step of the way before I finally gave in and did it your way all while questioning why we were building something with a blown engine. And, for you to say I was wrong for measuring valve lash, I was trying to make a point that your engine HAD excessive and uneven valve lash to prove the cam lobes were worn unevenly. There should not have been any lash. Your timing chain was falling out, I had to Time-Sert the block because there were no threads, we rebuilt your heads and you freaked out, but you wanted them cc tested???? Your build didn't make any sense to any of the three of us that worked on it. And finally, you call me a two faced jerk again....we will finish this conversation in person. Dave

First off... You imply that I jack off to car magazines in my cubicle but I can't say you're a two-faced jerk? At least one of those is true... from everything I've experienced anyway (hint: I don't even have a cubicle.) Go ahead and make all the threats you want (it's a free internet), I ain't skeered.
Secondly, how the hell do you know that my car wasn't mentioned, were you involved in every single conversation there? Believe it or not, there are people who were there that are quite interested in my build, you involved or not.

Blown engine? Why does it start up just fine then, without any noises other than the valvetrain that you failed on, and without any major loss of compression or any other signs of a 'blown engine'?
You were trying to make a point about the valve lash? After you had put it together incorrectly and then diagnosed it with a lifter tick that should go away eventually? (I've never had lifters take longer than a couple seconds to prime, even when brand new, but I trusted you knew what you were doing so I gave you the benefit of a doubt). Any competent engine builder knows that you would check all of that before it's buttoned up. As for the uneven lash (which you should have caught while you were measuring for pushrods), what you had measured once the "lifter tick" wouldn't go away was well within the adjustment of the lifters when they're put together properly. Obviously there shouldn't be much of a difference, but it wouldn't even have showed up as an issue. Your actual 'point' in checking the valve lash was "to be sure it was not incorrect pushrods" (that's a direct quote).
Nice try in attempting to distract from the fact (you are good at that I must admit)... you put my valvetrain together wrong after telling me to order pushrods that were actually too short, then you personally told me that this engine is SUPPOSED to have some valve lash. Since you previously ran all around the internet (at least 60degreev6.com anyway) looking for what I've posted, you probably also saw this question that I posted there, which was answered by Ben (site owner, and someone who knows a helluva lot more about building these engines than you do)...
http://60degreev6.com/forum...ion-about-valve-lash
Valve "lash" on this engine is supposed to be about -.071" (that's a negative sign because that's how far INTO the lifter the pushrods are supposed to sit, in other words, no lash at all)
Timing chains wear out, sometimes so much that they break. I know of at least three engines that were worn enough that the timing chains either broke or were "about to fall off". The timing chains were replaced, and those engines went on for at least several thousand more miles (I lost track of them because two of them weren't mine and I sold the third). You replaced it, and low and behold, that isn't the problem with this engine.

Time-serts... It's time to revisit that...

Way back I posted in this thread that I had some ideas why, but whatever the cause of the threads pulling out was neither here nor there... well it's here. Just for the fun of 'enjoying' those sexy car magazines, I went and looked this up, though I learned about it way back in Auto Service Technology class at the local tech school:

quote Part of the fun of building an engine is ensuring that all the threaded holes in the block are in good shape and ready to handle the torque loads for fasteners like head and main cap bolts. While you might not give much thought to the quality of these threads, it's a royal pain when the threads pull out when you're torquing that last head bolt. Standard taps are actually designed to cut new threads rather than chase existing ones. Every time you use a standard tap to chase a set of head bolt threads, for example, the tap will also remove more of the existing threads. This reduces the overlap of the female threads in the block to the male threads on the bolt. This reduced overlap can often lead to stripped threads on these larger bolts. In the old days, savvy engine-builders only ran a tap through these bolt holes once, and employed a very old or used tap that did not cut as deeply into the female threads. While that's still a trick that you can use today, ARP has come up with a set of new taps that will accomplish the same goal. These taps are specifically designed to be used as thread-chasers to clean dirt and junk from the threads, yet remove as little parent thread material as possible. If you enjoy building engines, keep this little trick in mind the next time you get ready to clean those threads. It might save you grief down the road. Read more: ]http://www.carcraft.com/tec...xzz1aOmuFYko

Whether or not that played a part to begin with, timeserts were installed... problem eliminated, still no "blown engine".

Freaked out? Seriously? According to you at the time, the heads needed rebuilt, so I said okay, have your friendly shop across the street rebuild them. WTF?
It's these types of things you say that make it ever clearer just how you thought of me behind my back nearly from the start. To think, I told everyone for 2 years what a good job you do and how nice you were, and that my car was in good hands. When I got my car back, I had to choke on crow at work in front of the coworkers who thought I was an idiot for sending my car off to someone's side business to their repair shop when all I did was defend you. I had to admit, my faith in your abilities was obviously quite blind. I still feel like a freakin' idiot, and it isn't because of what I wanted built. I should have seen right through you when you started telling me things behind other people's backs and then I saw you changing your story when you talked to them face to face. That just disgusts me. When I say you're a two-faced jerk, it isn't only because of your attitude about me.

I already explained all this, but details always fall on deaf ears. I wanted the chambers CC'd so I could calculate the actual compression with the new, and freshly shaven down heads. You know, the SCR is kind of important when you're building a turbo engine, especially when it's a testbed for similar but fully built engine that hasn't had a final SCR decided upon as of yet..

Even though I could still go on and on about even more of this big FAIL that I haven't even mentioned, I think it's futile to counter anymore of your past, present, and future BS... afterall, you are quite happy with all the work that you did aside from that POS coil cover. Apparently nothing I say will help you get off your high horse.

So, I found out recently, as I should have known all along, that this wastegate on my Fiero is a fake Tial. (I researched all that back in 2003 or so when I purchased my Talon's real Tial wastegate, but I honestly forgot all about it).
Dave, I would like to be reimbursed in full for this wastegate since is not what I asked for, so I can buy a real Tial. If you want, I'll even send this fake one back to you if you pay for the shipping.

[This message has been edited by ALLTRBO (edited 10-11-2011).]

[This message has been edited by bmwguru (edited 10-13-2011).]

[This message has been edited by bmwguru (edited 10-13-2011).]

quote Originally posted by bmwguru: The last paragraph sums it up.

LOL... the delivered product sums it up.

quote Originally posted by ALLTRBO:

quote Originally posted by ALLTRBO: I don't remember what this connector went to, but I imagine it isn't used anymore. The loom is actually single ended, it just doesn't look like it in the pic. The wire is not tied into the harness by about two feet, so it might supposed to go somewhere. I think this is where the factory dogbone bracket was. You can't tell from the pic, but the edge that looks blunt is actually razor sharp, I cut myself on it. It's a good thing I wasn't putting my hand down there with my wrist exposed! The upper edge that's nearer in the pic is also pretty sharp. The brand-new wastegate was supposed to come with its own matching fittings which are a much better design. When I saw that Dave had charged me for wastegate fittings I asked about these, and he said it didn't come with any. I said I wasn't worried about the $10, but he should ask the person he ordered the wastegate from what was up with that because I checked the Tial website and they still show them as being included (as were they with my Talon's identical WG several years back), when he didn't reply to that I forgot about it until now: (Note the lock washer): Using black wires for both hot and ground is a serious safety issue at my job, and I don't consider it any less serious here.

None of that has anything to do with the engine internals. You could have had a foam engine model in place and it wouldn't have affected the above issues.
If that's your idea of quality work, good luck keeping your BMW customer base.
Don't waste my time with a reply.

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 10-11-2011).]