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| Fiero 2m8 LT1 NX Roadster conversion (Page 30/46) |
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Fiero2m8
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FEB 10, 12:01 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by PineyCreek:
I love your project...wish I had the cash you apparently do. |
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Thanks, most of the parts cost were spread out over the past four years and I didn't charge for my labour.
Any cash I apparently had, has now unfortunately slowed down the project as I am going through a separation 
Thanks Alex4mula, I already made the leap and ordered them as a winter project.
My brother recently moved to Michigan, so I had the kit shipped to his place and imported it myself after a recent visit to the Detroit Auto Show.
The above posts inspired me to assemble the rear coilovers this weekend, so I will document the build as I go.
First, here is a shot of the kit:
Kit with the new struts that need to be modified:
Ryan
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Fiero2m8
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FEB 10, 11:11 PM
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Ok, here we go.
First step was to remove the McPherson strut spring perch from the new Fiero replacement rear struts.
This was achieved by carefully grinding the weld just under the perch with a 5" angle grinder.
I notched the perch on both sides and then tapped with a 2-1/2 lb. sledge until the weld cracked allowing removal of the perch.
The two spot welds in the lower bracket were also ground off the lower section of the shock body and the bracket tapped off.
With the perch removed, it was easy to grind the rest of the weld smooth, so the threaded sleeve will be able to slide over it:
Here is a picture of it completely removed, but I quickly noticed the threaded sleeve would still not slide over the Monroe's due to the seal protector cap.
Instead of trying to grind it down to 2" diameter, I chose to remove and replace them:
This was accomplished by using a Dremmel rotary hand tool with a cut off wheel to cut the three tabs on the underside, so the rings could be removed.
Then a quick black paint job to cover up the bare metal on the strut bodies:
Now the sleeves could be installed - Held Motorsports recommends applying a thick bead of RTV silicone on the strut prior to install.
This is so the sleeves don't spin during ride height adjustments later as the RTV will cure.
The new spring seats nuts were spun all the way down - notice they come with allen head stop screws to prevent them from spinning once ride height is set:
Here are some shots of the completed assemblies ready to be bolted in.
I chose to go with 350lb springs due to the heavy drivetrain I am using (Iron block and head V8 with a 4T60 Auto transaxle).
After sliding the springs on, you drop a washer, bushing, top hat, bushing, washer and strut nut in that order:
Make sure the threads are up as they are bolted through the shock tower during installation.
HT Motorsports recommends tightening the strut nut until the bushings are compressed to 60% of their orginal height.
I haven't checked with a torque wrench yet what that number is.
Once the nuts were tightened, I raised the 12 inch springs by spinning the lower spring seat nut approx 2 inches so some preload of the spring was present.
The strut is currently fully extended, but once they are installed I will set the ride height I'm looking for (something between stock and the current lowering):
I think I've covered everything, let me know if you have any questions.
This was an easy afternoon winter project and I am hoping to report improved handling, ride height and tire clearances this spring!
The parts were complete, very high quality, so if you don't want to build your own for whatever reason, I highly recommend using this proven performance kit.
Please continue to encourage me to do these write-ups on my build thread.
I printed it for a great binder of the build history, plus it helps other members and my rating 
I think they look sweet too and I can't wait to install them 
Cheers------------------
1986 Fiero2m8 (LT1 NX / 4T60 Roadster Build)
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/071642.html
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exoticse
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FEB 12, 09:31 PM
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Jake_Dragon
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FEB 12, 09:43 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by exoticse:
Trying to remember without re-reading the whole thread, but did you ever consider roll bars ?
The car looks great without, but was just curious.
The ones on the K-1 attack look great, but don't know how you could incorporate them into the fiero with the decklid grills/vents so close in proximity.
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Just cant see it.
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Fiero2m8
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FEB 15, 04:22 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by exoticse:
Trying to remember without re-reading the whole thread, but did you ever consider roll bars ?
The car looks great without, but was just curious.
The ones on the K-1 attack look great, but don't know how you could incorporate them into the fiero with the decklid grills/vents so close in proximity.
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Basically, I have considered them many times but haven't found something I think would improve the look.
Most of the looks I like would involve reversing the way the decklid opens or modifying the vent openings (like Saturn SKY etc).
The easy way would be to mount roll hoops to the new frame on the top of the firewall, but I really haven't found ones I like yet.
They could easily be bolted where you see the carpet below:
Fiero2m8
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Fiero2m8
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FEB 18, 07:52 PM
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Happy President's Day! (or Family Day for us Canadians)
Today, I started my front suspension upgrade project by raising the front end on jack stands and doing some of the teardown.
I read Chapter 10 in the Haynes manual this morning, because I quickly realized this was one the the few parts of the car, I haven't dismantled yet!
The things I've done on the front end were replace the steering rack, stabilizer end links, shocks and remove a coil from the front springs.
This time, I want to install my total front end polyurethane bushing kit, one inch drop springs to match my rear coilovers and possibly a larger sway bar.
I was concerned that with 22 years of rust and never being touched, that I would have issues with nuts and bolts breaking or not coming apart.
However, I am pleased to report that so far, so good...
Here are some of the tear down pictures to show the inexperienced out there that are thinking of changing springs, the steps to get the front springs out:
Here is the before picture with the front wheels removed and the frame supported on jack stands:
First the sway bar end links were removed with 9/16" socket and wrench:
Next the lower shock mount 17mm nut washer and bolt was removed:
The safety pin and nut was removed so the steering end link could be removed from the knuckle:
There is a bracket holding the brake line to the upper control arm with a rivet that needs to be snapped off:
The lower ball joint nut is removed with an 18mm socket:
The upper ball joint nut is removed with a 15mm socket:
After separating the ball joint with a pickle fork, the rest of it can be removed from the upper control arm with 2 - 15mm sockets on the nut/bolt:
With the jack that was supporting the lower control arm removed, I pryed the spring and rubber retainer down the bump stop with a pry bar:
Here is the shot with the front spring completely removed:
Last picture for today is of all the old parts that have been removed:
My question before the control arms are removed and the knuckle is wired to hang out of the way with the brake line still attached...
The Haynes manual states the upper control arm bushings are not serviceable and the arms must be replaced - is this accurate?
I didn't check my Prothane kit yet but before removing the upper arms, I'd like to know what you guys have done.
Thanks
Fiero2m8
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FieroJimmy
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FEB 18, 08:36 PM
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For the upper control arm bushings, burn 'em out and install the new poly, just like the lowers.
There's a thread somewhere about the spacer washers that come with the kit being too big, if I can find it, I'll add the link to this post.
Edit:
OMG, the search actually worked on the first try and the first page!!
polyurethane thrust washer?[This message has been edited by FieroJimmy (edited 02-18-2008).]
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Fiero2m8
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FEB 27, 11:57 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by FieroJimmy:
For the upper control arm bushings, burn 'em out and install the new poly, just like the lowers.
There's a thread somewhere about the spacer washers that come with the kit being too big, if I can find it, I'll add the link to this post.
Edit:
OMG, the search actually worked on the first try and the first page!!
polyurethane thrust washer?
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Thanks - I read through the thrust washer issue and there doesn't seem to be a clear answer on which is the correct install method...(force them in, cut them or omit them)
I decided to try out POR-15 for the control arms, so I got a starter kit to see how I like the stuff - here's a couple pics:
Ryan
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Fiero2m8
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FEB 27, 03:24 PM
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Tusch
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FEB 27, 03:31 PM
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Love the project, and I can't wait to see how those rims look.
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