PFF - Pennock's Fiero Forum, PDA Edition

Starting NEW Body Kit from scratch (Page 3/14)

3.6lvvt6spdgt

SEP 25, 06:13 AM

i got an idea get rid of the door part or cut its length in half and smoth the rear fender to the door it will give the ass more pop and will look more like hips. and add a lip/bulge around the tire area like the front fender.
also for your tail lights find a close up of a f355 tail lights and you will see the hole thing is a vent filled with thousands of tinny holes. find a way to do that and it would be wasome.
or just keep doing what your doing cause it looks awsome anyway.

[This message has been edited by 3.6lvvt6spdgt (edited 09-25-2008).]

Monkeyman

SEP 25, 06:56 AM

I sure wouldn't want to tackle that job! Just a thought...How are you going to attach the new body panels to the car? And, if you happen to have an accident, how will you remove them? If you cover up the molding, you can't get to the mounting points. I don't know how Archie makes it work on his wide body cars. If you haven't thought about this, you might ring him up and ask him.

Mailmule

SEP 25, 10:09 AM

Im not sure what you mean about covering the moldings and mounting points? If in an accident, the last thing I would be worried about is moldings or the body kit for that matter. The new Fiberglass body kit will be molded on with dynoglass and bondo, just like all the other kits out there. I don't consider this a project. I am enjoying what I am doing and if it doesn't turn out good, Oh well: I will do better next time. If you could explain what you are refering to please by all means, I am open to suggestions.

Here are some more pics:

Back On Holiday

SEP 25, 11:19 AM

quote

Originally posted by Mailmule:
Back On Holiday:::: Bondo is your friend. Lukily I had the chance to take autobody repair in school and had a great teacher. For this stage of my project, I am using the cheap stuff ($15 a gallon) But for the smoothing of the glass I will be using a much higher grade Bondo and using it sparingly because that will be the most crucial part. It also depends on the mold. For this, I am putting the glass on top of my mold, which is why I am making it a little short were it molds to the body. For that reason, I will have to use Bondo to make everything perfectly smooth and uniform after the glass is layed. If I had all the right equipment, I would be making a mold that my glass goes inside (almost like baking a cake) and would need much less bondo. Who knows. Maybe after making my first panel and it is to short, I may use the inside of that glass panel to make another (making the out-side smooth as a baby's but. It is all trial and error. I would love to buy Archies Kit, but $2500 is a bit much for me. So, If I were you, I would experiment with a very small object and make a glass mold from it and the the bondo, just to get the feel for it. Just remember that you must rough up the surface you are appling the bondo to. I use a 36 grit sandpaper to to this. After you lay the bondo and just before it dries (about 3 minutes or so) Use the cheese grater to shape it and knock down any high spots. You can see a picture of it above laying on top of the taillight. After it dries. sart with the 36-grit and smoothe all edges and then a sanding block for the rest. Then move to an 80 grit. You will see on the Bondo when sanding what spots are low because the sanding block isn't hitting them. Repeat steps until you have your desired shape. 36,80,180 then primer. After priming, sand with 220 and prime again(repeating a few times) If any additional scratches are present, you can use a different kind of putty on top of the primer, (just for small scratches) sand and prime again. When ready for paint sand with 400-800 wet or dry, wipe, tack and paint.....

Thank you, i've been using 36 grit to cut down excess material, i've also been doing things the hard way by filling in using fiberglass and epoxy, going to try the bondo today

3.6lvvt6spdgt

SEP 27, 04:59 AM

so are you going to be selling these? keep the pics comming!

Monkeyman

SEP 27, 07:35 AM

quote

Originally posted by Mailmule:

Im not sure what you mean about covering the moldings and mounting points? If in an accident, the last thing I would be worried about is moldings or the body kit for that matter. The new Fiberglass body kit will be molded on with dynoglass and bondo, just like all the other kits out there. I don't consider this a project. I am enjoying what I am doing and if it doesn't turn out good, Oh well: I will do better next time. If you could explain what you are refering to please by all means, I am open to suggestions.

If you remove the side mouldings, you'll see attachment points (screws) for some of the body panels. If you bond something over them (or fill them in for a smooth look as some have) you won't have any way to remove the body panels if you need to replace a damaged part. I don't know how the kits are attached to the body.

FWIW, yours is looking good.

Mailmule

SEP 27, 09:57 AM

Once again, thanks for the feedback....

I am a long way off from selling anything at the momment. I am finding out that some things need fixing before I can attach the actuall panels when glassed. I did figure out however that all alng the rear wheel well (holding the inner well) may be a great source of attaching the panel at that point. So far every thing else will have to be molded in with glass and bondo. Also, my pasenger front fender seems to be out of alignment. The door grabs it when opening, so I will have to fix that before I continue with that part of the form. I will also probably need new door hinges on the drivers side. While I was getting tires put on last year, I had the door open and some idiot backed up into the open door (pushing the whole door up in the rear) I thought I could just adjust it, but I think the hinges got bent. I also have to start looking at what kind of wheels I might want. The stock are just to narrow and look stupid with the wider body. This is an area I really have no clue. Any help on this would be great. I dont have alot of cash, so keep the suggestions cheap. I can always upgrade to something nicer at a later date. And my last decision is with the rear wing. I like the style it has, but the clearence just isn't there anymore with the wider rear. Not sure if I should just raise it up or actually extend it. I don't want to go cutting up my only 1, so I may try finding 1 at a junk yard or something to experiment on. Here are some more pics::::::::::::

I don't think I need to remove the moldings to do this, but I am afraid to just leave them. I may remove the moldings but leave the access untouched.. (thanks for the heads up)