Pantera parts ! (Page 29/75)
blackrams DEC 03, 07:28 PM
Bump for Creigh to view.

------------------
Ron
Freedom isn't Free, it's always earned.
My imagination is the only limiting factor to my Fiero. Well, there is that money issue.

Custom2M4 DEC 03, 08:16 PM

quote
Originally posted by blackrams:
This is going be a very cool ride when completed. But, that's just my opinion.


I second that! Go pantera's!

FierosinKY DEC 04, 12:36 AM
I saw these parts today in person...They are TIGHT!!!!!

We made it back safely. I will keep you updated.

Thanks again Dave!

Mike

VISCERAL JAN 08, 12:51 AM
bump
opm2000 JAN 08, 09:24 PM
Hey Viscereal, thanks for the bump

Here's the state of the Choptop Pantera this morning:

these pics are showing the rear clip mounted and chopped to match the chopped chassis. After altering the height of the rear clip to match the new roof line, foam was added to the cutout areas of the strakes. The foam was contoured and covered with a single layer of 3/4 oz matt cloth.

The plan is to use the 3/4 oz matt as a form or mold, and we will rebuild the rear clip from the inside. After curing 24 hours, the rear clip will be removed from the chassis and flipped on it's back. The foam will be removed, exposing the underside of the 3/4 oz matt. Then the rear clip will be rebuilt using 3 or 4 layers of 2oz matt. During final finishing, the 3/4 oz matt may or may not be sanded away, depends on how it goes.

To get to this point, we had to attach the rear clip. There are three "self locating" points that easily position the rear clip: The outline of the door frame, an edge on the backside of the trunk-box, and the aft edge of the Fiero roof clip. Due to the chop, we were able to use two of these points.

To attach the rear clip, part of the steel tube frame that reinforces it had to be installed:

This frame is made of 1" square tubing and 1/8" plate.

The plates are drilled to enhance bonding, and 4" steel hinges were selected and welded, with the hinge pins just at the bottom edge.

opm2000 JAN 08, 09:44 PM

Note that the tubing is bent to follow the contours of the rear clip. While we used 1" tubing here, the prototype used 1/2" tubing. I have a tendency to overbuild. I'll show you what this size change meant later on.

Then the inside of the rear clip was sanded with 80 grit where we wanted to bond in the frame. Two slightly oversized pads of 2oz matt were wetted out and placed where the steel plates go. We wanted to ensure a good squeeze out here.

Then the tubing of the frame was wrapped in two layers of woven BID cloth, to enhance the bonding of the metal to the fiberglass. The still wet frame was laid in place, and attached with two layers of 2oz matt. Only the outer 4" of each end of the frame were not glassed in. Later, additional steel will be bonded in and welded to this frame at these ends, using gusset plates.

Note that even though it's a fairly tight fit, the longer arm of the frame fits neatly across the top of the tail light boxes, and still leaves plenty of room for the opening to be cut for the clamshell rear decklid. The tubing is correctly positioned to become part of the trunklid seal, later on.

The addition of this small amount of framework greatly stiffened up the entire rear clip. After this had cured a couple of days, we were ready to proceed with attaching to the chassis.

more to come.


opm2000 JAN 09, 06:03 AM
With the frame bonded in and cured, the rear clip was sectioned. Along the back edge we used the parting line that forms the back edge of the clamshell:

But along the sides, we followed the curving body line that is just below the clamshell parting line:

This allowed us to get the rear clip into position and start checking for clearances:

The rear bumper was removed and a small 3" corner removed from each end:

opm2000 JAN 09, 06:24 AM

The other half of the mounting brackets is attached to the front ( or trunk ) side of the rear bumper. Strips of 1/2" square steel tubing were welded on to space the verticle 1/8" steel plate. This spacing places the verticle plate within 1/8" of the backwall of the trunk box. The matching half of the steel hinges is welded to the bottom of the verticle plate.

Now the rear bumper was reattached to the chassis and the rear clip joined to it at the hinge pins. I'll have to get a pic of that, later. But this pic shows the desired alignment of the hinge pin with the back edge of the trunk box. Position it there and the rear clip is at the right height.

With the rear end firmly in place, the door jamb alignment was checked, using a stout paint stirring stick to set minimum clearance between the steel door panel and the rear clip fiberglass:

And the door jambs were temporarily attached using a single 8mm nut & bolt:

So, with the rear clip really firmly in place now, we were ready to trim the removed clamshell for the chop. The roof section of the Fiero rear clip was harvested and attached to the chassis using the 3 stock mounting pads. The clamshell was put in place, and the sides of the strakes was eventually removed:

more to come.

PaulJK JAN 10, 05:04 AM
In your spare time, i think you guys need to make some room for some trophys. Man, this is gonna be sweet ....
blackrams JAN 14, 06:43 PM

quote
Originally posted by PaulJK:
In your spare time, i think you guys need to make some room for some trophys. Man, this is gonna be sweet ....

We appreciate the kind words. But I think we'll hold off on that particular task till we have a finished product and see how it is received. I think it's the coolest ride I've ever been involved with but, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. From the comments we've received up to this point, I'm feeling good about our efforts. Between Dave's expertise and my goofer abilities, I think it's coming along nicely. Again, thanks for the kind words.

------------------
Ron
Freedom isn't Free, it's always earned.
My imagination is the only limiting factor to my Fiero. Well, there is that money issue.

[This message has been edited by blackrams (edited 01-14-2006).]