newest project (Page 289/312)
Will JUN 12, 07:55 AM
If you can find one, I suggest you replace it. You can chase a leak for a long time and have doubts every time you shut the car off and catch a whiff of coolant...
Fiero2m8 JUN 12, 05:51 PM

quote
Originally posted by Will:

If you can find one, I suggest you replace it. You can chase a leak for a long time and have doubts every time you shut the car off and catch a whiff of coolant...



Yes good advice Will.

We are on page 73 now, so page 72 has been added to the newest project build thread Table of Contents on page 55.
Check it out if you're new to this thread in the Construction Zone...

FIero2m8
Fiero2m8 JUN 12, 05:55 PM

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 06-12-2012).]

Fiero2m8 JUN 30, 04:06 PM
My experience with this product is it either works or it doesn't - so far it has worked beautifully given the leak was so minor.


This week, I was working on finalized the ride height prior to a 4 wheel alignment due to 88 front suspension installation.
I was finding the front about an inch too low and it took me 3 tries to get it just right.

The first attempt involved swapping front springs to other stock ones I had with a coil removed.
Even though these were 3/4 of a coil longer, there was no effect to ride height due to a softer spring rate.

Next I decided to install coil end spacers on the end of the stiff springs.
I couldn't find any to purchase, so I made my own from a coil helper kit.
What I forgot was that changing the coil length an inch changes ride height almost double.
This is due to the geometry arc of the control arm and the spring being halfway between the pivot point and the lower ball joint.

Anyways, third time was the charm and I now have 1-1/2" gap tire to fender all around (or 2 finger spaces as I like to measure with).
The actual height from ground to fender lip at wheel centreline is 27-1/2" rear and 26-3/4" front using my tire combination.

Here are the pictures of the final install:

I'm getting pretty fast at a spring swap for me - now takes under an hour


These are the the rubber spacers I used available at any local auto parts store - I just cut them to the length needed:


Since these coil helpers are designed to go between coils, I grinded the top flat with an angle grinder to the 3/4" thickness I was looking for:


This replaces the stock rubber spring isolator - I used 3 ty-raps to hold it in position for the install:


As you can see here the spacer sits perfectly against the metal locating ring in the strut tower so the spring can't move laterally:


This was a cheap and easy solution. The spring can be installed without a spring compressor (just floor jack on the lower contol arm).
The spring always has pre-load once the shock is re-installed.
After a test drive ride height is good, springs are quiet and handling is still firm.

Before:


After:

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 06-30-2012).]

Fiero2m8 JUL 05, 12:34 AM
This week's project has been to build a new exhaust system after a splitting open one of the mufflers last week on a test drive.
The muffler's were installed in August 2006 and although they didn't get much use, it appears they slowly rusted from the inside out.
Time to remove them and build something new:



I was able to remove the old mufflers without removing the rear bumper cover.
After license plate was out of the way I had enough access:



It's a shorty version of a Cherry Bomb Turbo (12" length case):





Everything removed and I decided that I will try this project myself rather than bringing it to a custom muffler shop.





This is another opportunity to upgrade and continue to evolve the project as my own so stay tuned...
Fiero2m8 JUL 05, 10:20 PM
Today I ordered the mufflers - I chose Flowmaster HP-2 Shortys

http://www.flowmastermuffle...pn6u07nhkf3q41ar6436

"The HP-2 line of mufflers utilize Flowmaster's revolutionary core design and deliver a moderate sound level with a rich traditional tone. Featuring a distinctive narrow case profile, the mufflers utilize Cool Shell Technology which minimizes radiant heat from the muffler body. Perfect for applications such as street rods, customs and rock crawlers that have limited space or can't fit a traditional oval shape muffler. Constructed with Stainless Steel materials and fully welded for maximum durability."

•Stainless 304S Polishable Case
•Patented Laminar Flow Technology
•Cool Shell for Reduced Radiant Heat
•Compact Design
•Internal Components Are 409s Stainless

This evening was the ingural hand washing and detailing since the restoration - I am trying all Meguiars products this year.
Check out the new stance as well - here are the pics:
Fiero2m8 JUL 05, 10:46 PM
Cleaning up I found my beer and coffee stained notepad that had my "15 STEPS to Fiero body removal".
I just wanted to document my removal steps here for future reference so scroll down if this doesn't pertain to your interests

TOOLS:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jack and 4 jackstands
Cordless drill
T50 (Seat Belts)
T30 (Doors)
T15 (Interior)
13mm / 11mm / 10mm / 7mm wrenches & sockets
Pliers / side cutters
Screwdrivers
Hammer
Chisel
Bags & box

15 STEPS (in order of disassembly):
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1) 4 jackstands / Wheels off / Disco battery / remove Front trunk lid
2) Side marker lights (7mm / T15) / Wheelwell liners / Gas cap / Rear hatch (or decklid)
3) Tailights / Doorsills / Sideskirts / Driprails
4) Rear bumper cover (top clips / plugs for plate lights)
5) Front bumper cover (bottom to top) / Indicator lights
6) Front fenders (rivet under then top screws)
7) Upper seat belts / Trim / 11mm Sail panels
8) Dome light / Sun visors / Drop headliner
9) Side moldings / 10mm in ceiling
10) Remove rear quarter panels (rivets / screws)
11) Rear clip (Side / Back / Top screws (Fuel filler disco)
12) Interior door panels / Power Mirrors (10mm / wire)
13) T30 Nuts (4 Back / 3 Front) on inner door panels
14) 7mm screws / Moulding / Remove outer door panels / Handle rod
15) Roof Panel (cutting wire)

Installation is reverse order.
doublec4 JUL 06, 06:06 AM
Lookin good!!
Fiero2m8 JUL 07, 04:24 PM
Yesterday I had the afternoon off and the muffler's came in so I welded in the new exhaust setup:




Since the old mufflers touched the frame I trimmed some metal that could potentially interfer during engine torquing:




I also grinded the back of the transaxle at the two mounting points not used in my application to gain additional clearance and allow flowmasters to be installed straight:




The case length was actually 12.5 inches or 1 inch longer than the Cherry Bombs, so I cut 1 inch off each end of them to help manage finished overall length.




I reused the flanges and welded them in the correct orientation:






The exit of the mufflers are secured with stainless steel clamps to ensure I can R/R the exhaust without need to remove bodywork:



New chrome oval tips were welded in to exit just below the license plate as before:




\
I am very pleased with the look and sound of the new system and proud I did it myself versus a muffler shop...

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 07-07-2012).]

doublec4 JUL 07, 08:43 PM
Nice work, I like those tips much better. I can't wait to see this thing in person soon!