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| Aurora 4.0l / Izuzu 5 speed swap into 88 coupe (Page 28/102) |
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cptsnoopy
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JUN 16, 04:38 AM
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I got the fiberscope tonight and took a look into numbers 8 and 6 cylinders. The truth is that I could not see much difference between the two. The number 8 cylinder has more carbon and gunk in it but the bore looks pretty good. There does appear to be one possible area at the 2 o’clock position in the bore that has what looks to be vertical lines but very hard to tell with this scope. There does not appear to be a major problem in the part of the bore that can be seen with the piston down. The next step now is to put the engine back together and run it. If it smokes like crazy from the even number bank of cylinders then I will take the bottom end apart.
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ryan.hess
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JUN 16, 10:38 AM
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| quote | | Originally posted by cptsnoopy: I got the fiberscope tonight and took a look into numbers 8 and 6 cylinders. The truth is that I could not see much difference between the two. The number 8 cylinder has more carbon and gunk in it but the bore looks pretty good. There does appear to be one possible area at the 2 o’clock position in the bore that has what looks to be vertical lines but very hard to tell with this scope. There does not appear to be a major problem in the part of the bore that can be seen with the piston down. The next step now is to put the engine back together and run it. If it smokes like crazy from the even number bank of cylinders then I will take the bottom end apart. |
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Vertical lines aren't a problem unless they're deep.  What I would do is get some of GM's 'top engine cleaner', or if you're cheap, something like 'seafoam', remove all the spark plugs, and toss some in every cylinder, and rotate the crank a bit... Maybe even let it sit all day, and drain it the next morning. Don't forget to change the oil after that, and siphon everything out of the cylinders with a hose. That'll take out most of the carbon. When you've got the engine in your car, a WOT run will clean out the rest of it. 
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cptsnoopy
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JUL 01, 01:52 AM
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cptsnoopy
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AUG 19, 01:40 AM
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still working on getting the 86 back together.... having to do the usual, dealing with busted bolts in aluminum... 
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Erik
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AUG 20, 02:59 PM
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Great thread! Did you ever get the clutch arm reconfigured to clear the water pump housing?
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I wear pants
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AUG 20, 04:28 PM
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I was watching Barret Jackson on speed channel, and a Shelby Series-1 was up on the block and interestingly enough the anouncer guy said that the Series-1 is powered by a supercharged Olds Aurora 4.0 V8. I found this to be really interesting and felt the need to share.
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cptsnoopy
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AUG 21, 08:00 PM
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| quote | | Originally posted by Erik: Great thread! Did you ever get the clutch arm reconfigured to clear the water pump housing? |
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I have not tried that just yet. at first I was going to cut the original cast arm off and leave only the part that clamps to the trany. Then weld on a piece of 1/4" steel in the correct location for a "pull" style slave. Since then I have learned that welding to the cast metal is iffy at best so I am reconsidering how to fabricate the new arm. so far I am sure that it won't have any bends and that should reduce stress loads to the minimum required to do the job. I'll either make a complete arm that has the part that clamps to the trany or make just the extension and attach it to the original cast clamp with bolts or screws.
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cptsnoopy
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AUG 21, 08:02 PM
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| quote | | Originally posted by I wear pants: I was watching Barret Jackson on speed channel, and a Shelby Series-1 was up on the block and interestingly enough the anouncer guy said that the Series-1 is powered by a supercharged Olds Aurora 4.0 V8. I found this to be really interesting and felt the need to share. |
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that sounds very cool. I would love to see that up close!
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Erik
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AUG 21, 11:11 PM
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| quote | | Originally posted by cptsnoopy: I have not tried that just yet. at first I was going to cut the original cast arm off and leave only the part that clamps to the trany. Then weld on a piece of 1/4" steel in the correct location for a "pull" style slave. Since then I have learned that welding to the cast metal is iffy at best so I am reconsidering how to fabricate the new arm. so far I am sure that it won't have any bends and that should reduce stress loads to the minimum required to do the job. I'll either make a complete arm that has the part that clamps to the trany or make just the extension and attach it to the original cast clamp with bolts or screws. |
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cool...I am considering using one in my n* swap and know this will be an issue for me as well if I decide to use the isuzu..I would lean towards designing a new arm rather than trying to rig the stock arm unless it can be done without welding and still maintain its strength. I really like the cruise rpm potential of the isuzu behind the n* especially with these gas prices[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 08-21-2005).]
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Russ544
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AUG 22, 12:56 AM
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I'm anxious to see your solutions to the Isuzu hurdle as well. There's plenty of meat in the stock arm to machine the sides flat and drill/bolt on an extension but I'm curious how you'll mount the slave. are you still planning to use the pull slave? You'd better get a move on ...... I expect to be doing a final install on mine next weekend still no computer to update my build progress pics, but maybe by mid week.Cheers, Russ
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