newest project (Page 273/312)
Fiero2m8 JUN 10, 10:31 PM
Removed the starter as it worked itself loose at the adjuster bolts.
Retorqued with Loc-tite.


Checked new AC Delco standard plugs gapped to 30thou.
Mixture and heat range look good so far as they are all this tan colour:
Fiero2m8 JUN 10, 10:33 PM

quote
Originally posted by ezramore:
Can you box in the vally cover to go over the link



Thought about it but I didn't want to cover the billet intake manifolds.
Probably something I can experiment with next winter.
Fiero2m8 JUN 13, 01:05 PM
I solved another issue I was having with the shifter as it needed to be manhandled like an old lambo gearbox.
Turns out it just needed a tuneup and now I have nice crisp short throws with no more effort than a stock Fiero.
Here are the pictures:

Clutch linkage disassembled as I had some sticky helm joints and I wanted to reset the neutral position of the shifter:


Side shifter rod removed from transaxle after marking the adjustment location.
I knew that it was already in the ideal spot through previous trial and error:


Rod is cleaned and checked to ensure it wasn't bent:


Reinstalled adjustment screw pin in original location.
Shaft guide shimmed with washer on top rear to align with adapter plate sleeve (needed to drop angle a little to remove binding):


Helm joints cleaned and adjusted for smooth operation:


A little bit of grease was applied at the sleeve and linkage could now easily move by hand.
Success
Another fine tuning issue crossed off the list...

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 06-13-2011).]

Fiero2m8 JUN 16, 12:03 AM
Recently I noticed that my throttle cable travel didn't allow for Wide Open Throttle - they were opening only 3/4 vs. full as shown here:


Solution was to relocate and adjust the cable from the outer hole to the inner hole on the arm requiring less cable travel to achieve WOT:


Here is an overhead shot of the new setup:
Fiero2m8 JUN 18, 12:19 PM
In order to start reassembling body panels, some need the underside painted as they are partially visible when installed.
Usually this would be done prior to the paint shops work, but this way they didn't need to worry about masking or overspray saving them time and me money.
I just had to be careful not to get any overspray on my new paint job.
Here are the pictures of the rear clip that I started with since it goes on first:


My first coat was I semi-gloss black, but I later decided that flat black looked better:


Then I flipped it over and did a third coat to ensure I had complete coverage:


Glad to report that the first panel is back on the Fiero to stay since engine bay is near completion:

------------------

Indy Northstar-Stretch ~ LT1-NOS Roadster

Fiero2m8 JUN 18, 12:23 PM

quote
Originally posted by ezramore:

Just a thought where the rad hose rests on the sharp metal edge of the cut mesh.

http://www.directindustry.c...ors-11859-31825.html



Hi ezramore,

Got around to protecting the stainless rad hose similar to as suggested:
Fiero2m8 JUN 18, 12:34 PM

quote
Originally posted by ezramore:

Can you box in the vally cover to go over the link



I experimented with this setup (above the linkage) after installing the exhaust wrap, let me know what you think...

I also went with paint to match the valve covers.
Fiero2m8 JUN 18, 12:41 PM
I saw the taillight tinting paint in the Performance Improvements flyer so I thought I'd give it a try.

Before:


After:
Mystik JUN 19, 03:04 AM

quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:


Thanks for feedback - here's the yard info...
http://www.millersauto.com/



Thank you so much for this. I've been searching all around. I'll have to go visit someday.
Fiero2m8 JUN 20, 10:16 PM
This past weekend's progress was made painting the underside of body panels.
The decklid was done in flat black and the rest in gloss black to match the chassis.
Most of this won't be seen but this was my chance to cover the bare fiberglass and make it easier to keep looking nice.