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| Fiero 2m8 LT1 NX Roadster conversion (Page 27/46) |
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Australian
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AUG 04, 05:15 AM
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A lot of misconception about the use of filler here. He has glassed it then sanded the filler is just to get a smooth surface. I dont see problems with this cracking the fibreglass will hold it in place nicely.
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Australian
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AUG 10, 06:57 AM
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I have a question. The flared guards you have used did they fit the wheelarches perfectly? I am finding the gap between the universal flares is 28 inches but gap of wheel arch of fiero is about 30 inches. Have you covered up any of the wheel arch with the flares overlapping. Is the donor pontiac as big around the wheel arch as a fiero?
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Fiero2m8
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AUG 14, 03:32 PM
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Thanks for all the feedback!
I hope stuff doesn't crack on me, but it's not the end of the world if it does given the budget on paint.
Either way, It will be a good learning experience for all of us backyard mechanics.
As far as the rims, they will be replaced when I burn off all the tread and/or when I have more $$$ for the project.
For now the wheelwells are full and will have to do even though 3 spoke rims are a pet peeve of mine.
Ryan
| quote | Originally posted by Australian:
I have a question. The flared guards you have used did they fit the wheelarches perfectly? I am finding the gap between the universal flares is 28 inches but gap of wheel arch of fiero is about 30 inches. Have you covered up any of the wheel arch with the flares overlapping. Is the donor pontiac as big around the wheel arch as a fiero? |
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Here's a picture of the flare removed - you can see it is larger than the stock opening by approx 2" either side.
The stock bodyside molding had to be trimmed so the flare sits flush.
Fiero2m8
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Fiero2m8
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AUG 24, 02:48 PM
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Amida
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SEP 01, 10:51 AM
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Very Interesting build. Congrats on getting this far. Alot of great mods.
Rob
Fiero Interior Conversions
FieroVation
Seattle, WA. USA
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Fiero2m8
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SEP 14, 04:51 PM
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Thanks Rob, I appreciate your comments.
Here are a couple shots of the new MSD Optispark distributor 
I am glad it comes with a new harness as mine was pretty rough:
You can see this is a 1994-1997 design because it is vented and has the slot for the cam pin:
This is the last piece I needed to start operation oil leak repair.
Golf tournament Saturday but hoping to do the project Sunday.
Fiero2m8
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Fiero2m8
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SEP 27, 12:50 PM
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O.K. here it the update on the front engine oil leak repairs.
Good info here for LT1 owners:
First I removed the water pump, as I need to replace the seal behind it.
This F-body pump has been modified to fix the Fiero and has one hole plugged because I'm using iron heads:
Next, I removed Archie's harmonic dampener which I believe is neutral balanced - correct me if I'm wrong...
I had to remove it in order to get the Optispark distributor off, which is also blocking the seal!
Here you can see the distributor shaft with O-rings and the cam pin dowel guide that inserts into the slot in the Optispark.
I replaced this seal while I'm there as it's cheap insurance on a future oil leak there that could damage the Opti:
The cam driven waterpump seal is notorious for being installed incorrectly.
Mine leaked when I got the motor and the engine builder installed a new one wrong (even after taking time to polish the shaft) making things worse.
It is so easy for the inner seal to flip and point away from the motor instead of inward as you slide it on the shaft.
After wrecking a new seal myself I experimented and after a few tries, found the perfect guide tool anyone can easily find.
It's a Super Sharpie cap with the clip snapped off
As you can see here, it slides on real slick with no issues 
After tapping the seal home, I installed the new MSD Optispark being sure to align the cam pin and then installed the O-ring on the splined water pump drive:
The water pump has the same spline and the same part number O-ring goes on here too.
They don't seal oil or coolant, just provide a cushion for the splined collar that joins the assembly together:
This is a shot of the new MSD and a new collar installed on the spline (end with groove in it goes towards engine):
After hooking up the coil wire, fresh air and vacuum lines to the Opti and plug wires, I was ready to remount the almost new water pump with new gaskets and RTV:
Carefully refilled the cooling system.
I don't use the bleeder I installed on the water pump to avoid getting my Opti wet.
Instead I burp the cooling system by making the rad the highest point, run the heater and use my pressure cap to release trapped air into the overflow bottle.
After 10 minutes of warm up all the air is bleed and the overflow is topped up as it cools:
BTW-the X-frame makes finding jack stand points a piece of cake 
After a 30 minute test drive and cool down no oil or coolant leak anywhere - PHEW!
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1986 Fiero2m8 (LT1 NX / 4T60 Roadster Build)
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/071642.html
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Tha Driver
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SEP 27, 02:56 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Fiero2m8:
I brought Fiero2m8 over to the new painter to agree on pricing and what point he will take over the paint job.
Good news is the pricing will be as good or better than the dealer was.
He is also willing to finish any prep work vs. the dealer that would only mask and spray.
I saw samples of his work, the most recent was a Black flexible panel Saturn Ion that was of the quality I am looking for.
He is recommending using a black PPG urethane paint vs. the base/clear to save cost, and make future repairs easier.
For the front fenders that were currently at 120 Grit, he suggested using 240 then 3 coats of high build primer.
That should expose defects that I can use spot putty on and sand to 400 grit.
So it looks like I've got alot more sanding to do next week before he can block the rest of the car.
I was considering sanding all the skirts and giving them a coat of flexible primer as well.
Whatever I can do will save me money in prep labour, but I don't want to spend the rest of my summer sanding.
I am going to bring the car back in a few weeks for another inspection to see if it's ready for paint.
Other than that, all I've done this week is put the wiper arms back on
Ryan |
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1) Prime everything with EPOXY before the high-build primer. The high-build will not stick as well if you don't.
2) No need to sand with anything finer than 180 when you use high-build primer.
3) After blocking using 180 wet, final sand with 320 wet, shoot another coat of epoxy for a sealer, & shoot the paint. OR: Final sand the high-build with 180 wet, shoot the epoxy & let dry, final sand *it* with 400 wet & shoot the paint. Always use a giude coat (mist) of flat black for evey sanding.
4) Base/clear will last longer & is no problem to spot in if it gets damaged.
I've been building custom cars for nearly 40 years...
HTH,
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"
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Fiero2m8
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OCT 01, 09:45 AM
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Thanks Paul, + 4 u.
Nice to get tips from those experienced painting a Fiero.
I stopped by the Last Chance Car Show yesterday with my son Andrew and he really liked this Fiero trailer.
Owner wasn't around - anyone know who's it is so I can give them a thumbs up and get my ?'s answered?
Here was my favourite pic of an LT1 used in an engine swap - nice top plate, painted fuel rail covers and hidden wiring!
Fiero2m8
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fieroguru
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OCT 01, 04:25 PM
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