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bubbajoexxx
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MAY 04, 10:56 PM
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keep the hose well clear of the exhaust remember its teflon lined and will melt at 300 degrees
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Erik
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MAY 05, 03:34 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by fieroguru:
Do your wheels have a removable concentric ring? All my aftermarket rims came with them, so when I swap hubs, I just swap out the concentric ring on the wheel.
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Yes they do except for one which was a shipping error. I just slighty reamed it out and it fit so, I measured the OD of the ring they are 2.88 so its just a matter of getting concentric ring, thanks for the heads up.
But, I will still have to change the bolt pattern spacing to 5x100 hopefully there is room to do so. If you can, please look and tell me if you think that is feasible before I order the hubs, thanks again!
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RCR
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MAY 05, 08:07 PM
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@ Erik:
Erik, I had asked Joe about finding a hub that used a 5x115mm hub instead of the 5x4.75" that Ryan used. He recommended: 86 and up caddy rear bearing buick riv olds 88 5X115
This might have a smaller flange that you can work with.
Bob
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Gokart Mozart
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MAY 05, 09:06 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Fiero2m8:
Routing with look something like this:
This is the highest point in the system their was no fluid in the hard crossover pipe - a little concerning?
Since the other hose connects to the bottom of the passenger rad I drained the DEXCOOL from the system in preparation for the swap.
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What about using exhaust hangers to hold the tube away from other parts. I'm sure you can mount them upside down so the tube is on top.
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RCR
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MAY 12, 10:01 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by bubbajoexxx:
86 and up caddy rear bearing buick riv olds 88 5X115
BEWARE most GM replacement bearings even oem come from china and you want USA made only
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Joe, new question....
Is there a way to tell if the hub is rebuildable (nut instead of crimp) without taking the hub out and popping the back cover? I found a 2004 Buick Century wtout ABS (pn 512221) and the spec sheet looks perfect. I just do not know if the bearing comes apart.
thanx for any help...
Bob
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RacerX11
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MAY 12, 10:55 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by RCR:
Joe, new question....
Is there a way to tell if the hub is rebuildable (nut instead of crimp) without taking the hub out and popping the back cover? I found a 2004 Buick Century wtout ABS (pn 512221) and the spec sheet looks perfect. I just do not know if the bearing comes apart.
thanx for any help...
Bob |
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In my experience, no. I recently bought a made-in-USA, Timken 513018, non-ABS, 5x115mm hub from Rock Auto. Upon pulling the cover, I discovered it is a crimp-style hub, with ball bearings instead of rollers, and the crimp collar has the teeth for ABS. I suspect they are consolidating parts to save money, so the only difference between an ABS and non-ABS hub is the sensor and cover. So you really can't tell until you pull the cover.
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Will
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MAY 13, 06:28 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by RacerX11:
In my experience, no. I recently bought a made-in-USA, Timken 513018, non-ABS, 5x115mm hub from Rock Auto. Upon pulling the cover, I discovered it is a crimp-style hub, with ball bearings instead of rollers, and the crimp collar has the teeth for ABS. I suspect they are consolidating parts to save money, so the only difference between an ABS and non-ABS hub is the sensor and cover. So you really can't tell until you pull the cover.
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Are there any 5x115 hubs that use roller bearings?
AMC Eagle front hubs use dual tapered rollers and are repackable, but they're 5x4.5.
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bubbajoexxx
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MAY 13, 03:56 PM
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5x115 and 5x4.5 are the same as far as wheel bolt pattern are concerned
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Will
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MAY 13, 07:15 PM
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joshua riedl
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MAY 13, 07:55 PM
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I looked it up and it seems the difference is .027''. If I were to order two sets of rims with both patterns would they actually be different?
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