LS4 / F40 swap - fieroguru (Page 26/216) dobey MAY 15, 01:27 PM quote Originally posted by fieroguru: The issue with the MAP sensor has more to do with the port that goes into the manifold being too large to fit the LS2 intake hole. I probably could have over sized the hole, but was concerned about the plastic getting too thin... and I didn't like the look of the unused bolt hole in the LS4 sensor. The LS2 one is much better "looking" and keeps everything intake related (intake, throttle body, fuel rail, and injectors) all LS2 components. If you wanted to relocate the MAP sensor to the rear of the manifold, you could probably tap the current hole for a plug, find a freeze plug that will slide into place, or just fill the hole with some sort of epoxy. Ah. I didn't realize they changed the size of the port on the sensor as well. Mine looks exactly the same as your LS2 sensor, and popped right in on the LS2 manifold for me, when I test fit it. I thought about epoxy, but don't want to have it break loose at some point and get sucked into the engine. Tap and plug might work, if I can find something to bolt in that place. But I don't want to just stick a bolt in it, since I do want it to look stock. I'm sure I'll figure something out though, when I get to the point of having to concentrate on it. Thanks for the suggestions. fieroguru MAY 15, 04:11 PM Went ahead and test fitted the DS axle (hybrid tripod housing with 96 corsica axle) and had 7/8" before bottoming out at stock ride height. It should be fine as is, but I may install a 1/8" spacer between the bearing and the CV joint to make it 3/4" so it will match the PS. Then it was time to start modifying the shifter. So back to the shelf and pulled off these shifters for parts. Two are 4 speed shifters (with each missing a part from the reverse lockout) and an isuzu. Tore one of the 4 speed shifters down and then installed my isuzu shifter lever and the old getrag select cable. With the cable in the stock 4 speed bracket, the shifter has very limited range. The first picture is with the cable fully extended and the 2nd one is with the shifter at is full range... there is about 1 5/8 gap: Going the other way with the cable fully collapsed vs. the shifter results in a 1" gap: So the cable bracket needs to be moved forward. Anywhere between 1" and 1 5/8" probably would work, but I chose 1 5/16" to keep everything centered - that way I could build up the shifter stops to reduce cable abuse. Here is where I marked the section to remove: And welded back up with a range of motion checks: Since the Getrag Select cable only has 1 3/4" range of motion, I went and checked the needed range of motion on the F40 (the one for the 4.3) and got 1 3/4" as well, but I need to take it again in a more precise manner. Rodney is the greatest. I had used the left over Getrag select cable for my SBC/Getrag combo that I had purchased from him back in 2005 to confirm the pivot ball would pop out and fit on the pivot balls attached to the F40. Everything checked out, so I went and ordered 2 new Getrag Select cables for this swap. Before sending them, he called to confirm I was using them on the F40 and commented about his newest style of cable ends not having a removable pivot ball. Luckily he still has some of the older style ends with the removable ball studs and is going to send my cables with the older style ends. qwikgta MAY 19, 01:18 PM Still loving this thread. Rob fieroguru MAY 19, 01:32 PM My new Rodney Getrag Select cables showed up yesterday. With a 10 second mod I was able to increase the travel from 1 3/4" to 2"... so no worries about range of motion for the Getrag select cable used as the F40 shift cable. Now I need to work on the select side and work on the cable mounting brackets at the transmission. Khaos88GT MAY 19, 08:31 PM So how are you gonna keep you decklid down now that you have no hinges? fieroguru MAY 19, 10:03 PM quote Originally posted by Khaos88GT: So how are you gonna keep you decklid down now that you have no hinges? I will be making a thin "L" shaped bracket (about 30" in length) that will bolt to the panel under the rear window and top portion of the firewall panel, then the lower portion of the stock hinge will be modified and turned 90 degrees to attach to this new hidden bracket under the rear glass. The torsion rods are gone for good and will be replaced with some gas charged lift cylinders. Khaos88GT MAY 20, 04:55 PM If you can when you get to that point can you try and document that clearly on here. I've been wanting to get rid of mine forever just for cleanliness of wiring and what not especially with my ICM and coils located against the firewall on that side. fieroguru MAY 20, 07:43 PM quote Originally posted by Khaos88GT: If you can when you get to that point can you try and document that clearly on here. I've been wanting to get rid of mine forever just for cleanliness of wiring and what not especially with my ICM and coils located against the firewall on that side. Will do... I promise to take lots of pictures! fieroguru MAY 21, 01:15 PM The shifter work is pretty much done. Just need to test fit in the chassis with the cables routed as they will be just to make sure everything is positioned right, then I can do all the finish welding on the bracket. I started out with two Getrag select cables from Rodney Dickman. The cable that will become the shift cable was modified slightly to increase its stroke. Just took a tubing cutter and removed about 3/8" from the inner sleeve: Then a card board mockup to get the general size/shape of the bracket and the approximate cable positions: Transfer the card board pattern to some 1/8" steel, bent to shape and then use some 1 1/2" square stock, drilled some 1" holes for the cables (need to enlarge slightly more than 1") and then cut then into wedges. The round bodies of the cable ends needed about 1/8" removed (flattened so they would fit within the tubes). Then tack it all together and cut off the excess: fieroguru MAY 21, 06:02 PM Everything works as it should. I modified the reverse lockout to make it easier to engage and might have gone a little too far...nothing that the welder cant fix though. Here are a couple of the brackets for the console mounted reverse switch that I went ahead and removed: