Sourmug's 3.4 DOHC Swap (Page 23/28)
Sourmug MAY 17, 02:24 PM
Picked up my trim and bezels from the hydrographics shop. Here are a few pictures:







They used a silver carbon fiber transfer film over black for the trim and the same over red for the bezels.

Here's a link to the shop I used: http://www.brokentine.ca/

Your can also check out this link if you're not familiar with the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADq96RGRf00

Nolan
Sourmug MAY 17, 02:36 PM
Wanted to add this about the rear speaker covers. I essentially duplicated the recovering method that I used way back when I was working on my 87 GT. The grilles are heat welded to the interior trim and if you try to remove them they will break the plastic pins that hold it in place. Here's my solution to the problem.

When you pull the grilles off this is what you will see, first the holes that are left in the trim piece:

The larger round hole is for the upper seat belt attachment. And the back of the grilles look like this once the existing fabric has been removed:

Here's how the plastic pins look:

There's no easy way to re-weld these back on so a different attachment is required. On the face of the grilles there are four small dimples that are over-top of the pin locations on the back. These are a result of the injection molding process and fortunately show the exact positing of each pin. The dimples can be hard to see but are visible in good light. I ground the pins off smooth on the back side and marked the dimples with a sharpie marker.

I the drilled out the dimples to suit #8 machine screws on the drill-press. I'm suing screws with a tapered head and need to flare the holes so that the screws sit flush with the grille surface. To do this I used a conical grinding stone in my dremel:


And carefully using the dremel on a low speed I matched the hole to the tapered screw:


The screw are then held in place with nuts on the back side:


After a test fit the grilles were then sprayed with a black self-etching primer and were left to dry overnight:

I purchased some grille cloth from Rodney Dickman, it comes in two rectangles large enough for the front speaker grilles:

And to attach the cloth I coated the grille faces with 3M spray adhesive:

The fabric was laid onto the grille after the adhesive was applied and carefully positioned and stretched so that it lays flat and smooth at the corners. Heres the back side after the cloth was attached:

And after the trimming to size:

The spray adhesive is very tacky and the cloth sticks to it right away. Make sure your work area is clean.
I then used a heat gun to run a bead of glue along the back of the grille and folded the excess cloth over the back edge:

The grilles were then inserted onto the trim piece and attached with nuts.

And the extra screw length was cut off and the nuts secured using Loctite.

[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-17-2014).]

Sourmug MAY 17, 04:49 PM
One more minor update for today, then I'm calling her quits for the afternoon.

Insulation reattached to the back of the pillar trim:



Added vinyl to the door sills:



And a GT badge added to the glove box door:



That's it, off to get ready for a friends birthday party tonight!

Nolan
fierogtlt1 MAY 17, 11:03 PM
The hydro graphics look great and the extra detail on the glove box....Definitely makes me want to go redo all my interior now.
Steven Snyder MAY 18, 03:17 AM
I'm getting ready to do my interior color change tomorrow. Yours looks FANTASTIC! I can't wait to see those parts installed!
Sourmug MAY 18, 05:41 PM

quote
Originally posted by Steven Snyder:

I'm getting ready to do my interior color change tomorrow. Yours looks FANTASTIC! I can't wait to see those parts installed!



Thanks!

I'm looking forward to it too!

I managed to get the new Fiero Store trunk carpet installed along wit the new trunk seal that I purchased nearly 2 years ago:




It certainly takes some wrestling to get into the nooks and crannies and in the end it is not a perfect fit compared to the OEM carpet. It is pre-formed to the structure of the trunk though which helps all the holes have to be cut and it's pretty darn stiff. Not perfect but not bad either.

Nolan

quins&dads88 MAY 18, 07:25 PM
My gaaawd man! You've motivated me in ways I only thought women could do. I've read all 6 pages and I'm keen to get my sorry arse back into the garage and work it!!! Who knows maybe one day my 88 will be as beautiful as yours! Thank you for the inspiration.
Regards
B.J.
Sourmug MAY 20, 11:47 PM

quote
Originally posted by quins&dads88:

My gaaawd man! You've motivated me in ways I only thought women could do. I've read all 6 pages and I'm keen to get my sorry arse back into the garage and work it!!! Who knows maybe one day my 88 will be as beautiful as yours! Thank you for the inspiration.
Regards
B.J.



Err, umm Thanks, glad I could inspire you, LOL.
Sourmug MAY 21, 12:07 AM
The cup holder dilemma...

I have a TXGOOD cup holder for the centre console which I think is a great, well crafted product. I like it but I find that putting a drink in it makes it a bit hard to shift. I've spent a fair bit of time looking for options and I think most of the aftermarket options are just "bandaid" solutions. I wanted something that pulls out and is relatively concealed when closed. I settled on the 4th generation Jetta cup holder:





This unit is 6.9" wide X 5.6"front to back, pulls out just over 3" and most importantly is just under 3/4"thick. Consequently, it will fit nicely under my glove box with a bit of cutting on the dash.

Dash cut marked:



And cut using a cut off wheel in my dremel:



I drilled some mounting holes through the top and some matching but larger holes on the bottom for access to the holes for the screws. The screws will mount into the bottom of the glove box which has a 1/2" plywood frame:



Test fit without the glove box:



There are a few things to be aware of.

1. The glove box door in the open position swings under the glove box bottom by 1/4"+/- so the cup holder door has to stop before that.
2. The cup holder door swings up and cant be tight to the underside of the glove box, a spacer is needed.
3. The case of the cup holder cant have pressure points applied to pinch the case or the mechanism won't function.

Installed position , screwed in place (again, can't distort the case) and then caulked with silicone:





The back side:



Closed:



And open:



Yay, a functioning cup holder!

I'll add some coloring to the silicone but you won't really be able to see it once the dash is in the car anyways.
Nolan
Sourmug MAY 21, 11:12 PM
Russ sent some pictures of the covered console:





Everything is done and will be hurtling its way just as slow as USPS and Canada Post can manage!

Also, the dash has started to go back in!





I think the hydrographic carbon fiber is going to look just fine.

And some more of how the cup holder looks.





Nolan