 
     |
| Pantera parts ! (Page 22/75) |
|
rverhalen
|
MAR 15, 10:37 AM
|
|
Sounds great, I would like to get my car and your body kit put in the same room and make them both shine.
Then I will be calling a few people to get a video and other things set up. Since my dash is only 1 of 12 ever made it makes the car even more special. I would even take off a few weeks to get this online. Time to make a name for yourself and get the world rocking again with a new kit. I am tired of seeing Lambo's and other really expensive kit cars that not everyone can own.
The whole idea of a kit car is to have something that you can not own (the real version) and build something like it for yourself.
Most people build Fiero based kit cars and never touch the basic Fiero, like suspension / Brakes / carriage itself etc.
Since my car is done throughout and show ready then only thing I need to do is put on the kit and wheels and I have an even better car then before and since I drive to everything to show her off Iwould even carry fliers, cards, CD's to pass out to people to get them excited enought to buy one. Price of Fieros being low and the kits being of great quality the combination would just renew the interest in Fieros again to bump the price of our cars even higher.
I am looking at this in a different way since this is the newest and most interesting project that I have seen in a while.Let's talk and make this happen Robert Ver Halen
336-462-1040 [This message has been edited by rverhalen (edited 03-15-2005).]
|
|
|
|
bubbajoexxx
|
APR 07, 09:18 AM
|
|
|
|
|
exoticse
|
APR 07, 10:32 AM
|
|
|
For those interested there is a big article on this car (the original/not this project) in this month's (May) issue of Sports Car International. You can find the Magazine at Barnes and Noble. [This message has been edited by exoticse (edited 04-07-2005).]
|
|
|
|
opm2000
|
APR 07, 12:39 PM
|
|
|
Well, things have progressed, but it's been one step forwards and two steps backwards, you know? I guess I wasted about a month while a certian person was busy blowing hot smoke up my tailpipe. He wanted a kit, had a real nice donor car, and spends literally hours on the phone and email with Blackrams and I. I actually offered to either deliver the kit personally (no charge) and then fly to his place once a month untill completed.....or offered to fully assemble the body onto his donor car and return it to his place (no charge). Everything came to a screeching halt when I saw him announce in the Mall that he was getting a different kit. He never bothered to even notify me of his change of plans. I generally like to treat people well, and expect as much from them. No big deal, I just wanted to get that off my chest. Sooooo, where were we? I put the Swedish front airdam mold back together, and then was able to see that the mold is for the Pantera. I mistakenly assumed that Bo had resized an airdam to fit his Fiero, and then made the mold. Seems he must have made the mold, and then resized the part made from it. So Bubbajoe, I could send you an airdam that you could resize, but not one ready to attach and go. I'll be going thru the resizing process and making a mold from the new part this spring, but it's going to be a while. I was all ready to spray up the fender flares & airdam with Duratec. Got all set up to spray, and opened the Duratec to see that it had expired it's shelf life. Looked like real thick gook. I ordered new Duratec and am now wet sanding those parts, readying to build the molds. That did give me time to decide to build epoxy based molds, instead of polyester molds, though. The epoxy system is more expensive, but it overcomes the alligatoring problem with poly molds. Often there is "styrene migration" from the new mold. It usually disappears after producing three or four parts. But it manifests itself by causing alligatoring of the gelcoat layer. Problem is not structural if you use a sanding gelcoat, as I do. But it means sanding and spraying a part after it comes from the mold. I'm real pleased with the way the flares & airdam look, at this point. My neighbor (a Porche driver) has gotten in the habit of coming over and lusting over them. Very distracting. David Breeze [This message has been edited by opm2000 (edited 04-07-2005).]
|
|
|
|
bubbajoexxx
|
APR 07, 08:03 PM
|
|
| quote | | Originally posted by opm2000: Well, things have progressed, but it's been one step forwards and two steps backwards, you know? I guess I wasted about a month while a certian person was busy blowing hot smoke up my tailpipe. He wanted a kit, had a real nice donor car, and spends literally hours on the phone and email with Blackrams and I. I actually offered to either deliver the kit personally (no charge) and then fly to his place once a month untill completed.....or offered to fully assemble the body onto his donor car and return it to his place (no charge). Everything came to a screeching halt when I saw him announce in the Mall that he was getting a different kit. He never bothered to even notify me of his change of plans. I generally like to treat people well, and expect as much from them. No big deal, I just wanted to get that off my chest. Sooooo, where were we? I put the Swedish front airdam mold back together, and then was able to see that the mold is for the Pantera. I mistakenly assumed that Bo had resized an airdam to fit his Fiero, and then made the mold. Seems he must have made the mold, and then resized the part made from it. So Bubbajoe, I could send you an airdam that you could resize, but not one ready to attach and go. I'll be going thru the resizing process and making a mold from the new part this spring, but it's going to be a while. I was all ready to spray up the fender flares & airdam with Duratec. Got all set up to spray, and opened the Duratec to see that it had expired it's shelf life. Looked like real thick gook. I ordered new Duratec and am now wet sanding those parts, readying to build the molds. That did give me time to decide to build epoxy based molds, instead of polyester molds, though. The epoxy system is more expensive, but it overcomes the alligatoring problem with poly molds. Often there is "styrene migration" from the new mold. It usually disappears after producing three or four parts. But it manifests itself by causing alligatoring of the gelcoat layer. Problem is not structural if you use a sanding gelcoat, as I do. But it means sanding and spraying a part after it comes from the mold. I'm real pleased with the way the flares & airdam look, at this point. My neighbor (a Porche driver) has gotten in the habit of coming over and lusting over them. Very distracting. David Breeze |
|
sounds like you are getting closser to the finish product and the investment in expoxy molds will pay for it self 10 times over as worping from old molds totaly disapers and they last way longer than resin molds and less prone to chipping when pulling parts I will get back to you on the front dam soon as I can modifie it my self if need be
|
|
|
|
VISCERAL
|
APR 10, 06:50 PM
|
|
|
|
|
shawnkfl
|
APR 10, 08:55 PM
|
|
|
that's it. as of today i'm starting to squirrel away some cash for this body. i want this soooooooo badly...
|
|
|
THE BEAST
|
APR 11, 02:00 PM
|
|
|
|
|
blackrams
|
APR 11, 06:14 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by shawnkfl:
that's it. as of today i'm starting to squirrel away some cash for this body. i want this soooooooo badly... |
|
Me Too, I'll send pics just as soon as it's done.  Seriously though, just as soon as we work out any kinks we might find, we'll have some to ship out. This is a very easy kit to assemble and looks great, my problem is I want mine to be a little different, thus the delay. But we're working on it, I promise. ------------------
Ron
Freedom isn't Free, it's always earned.
My imagination is the only limiting factor to my Fiero. Ooops forgot about the money issue. [This message has been edited by blackrams (edited 04-11-2005).]
|
|
|
|
opm2000
|
APR 12, 11:03 AM
|
|
 Well, here's where we are with the wheel flares & airdam. This shows a flare after recieving one mist coat & five wet coats of Duratec. The Duratec is lightly sanded 2-4 hours after spraying, with 80 grit paper on a sanding block. This opens the coat to complete overnight curing. The next day you continue to sand with 80 grit & 150 grit, using a block or spline. What you are doing is flattening the sandable filler/primer to expose low areas & pinholes. Those areas will remain a darker grey, and high areas become a lighter grey. 
Here's the airdam after sanding. Now you use a finer filler similar to Bondo, but suitable for pinhole or spot filling. I like the Evercoat Metalfil because it's more of a liquid and can be mixed with a bit of micro-ballons if you want to make it heavier. Anyhow, you slightly overfill the voids and sand them down after 30 minutes, which is what you see here. It's important to note that all materials so far are poly based. This means they have to be catalyzed, and will gel quickly, like 20 minutes or less. This can be exciting when you are using a spraygun, to say the least. Believe me, when a batch of Duratec gells inside you spraygun, it's the dickens to clean out. 
Here's the Duratec and the best gun I've found so far for this type of spraying. This is a cheap, gravity feed, conventional spraygun with a 2mm tip. This allows uniform spraying of unthinned material. Any smaller tip will not work well. I've tried about every type of gun out there, and for this aplication, this works very well. The Duratec is also used as a gelcoat substitute when we do a layup in one of the molds. For this application I thin with @ 10% hot laquer thinner and use a HVLP gravity feed gun with a 2mm tip. Next up is applying another 3 wet coats of Duratec and wet sanding thru 500 grit, followed by machine polishing and buffing thru 1500 grit. Thgsi should yield an incredibly smooth, reflective surface, suitable for mold production. Hopefully the mold layups will commence this weekend. David breeze
|
|
|
|