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| Fiero 2m8 LT1 NX Roadster conversion (Page 20/46) |
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Fiero2m8
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SEP 29, 11:12 PM
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Fiero2m8
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SEP 30, 10:45 PM
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Well I found an engine shop in Fonthill that keeps the starters in stock for $150 so I picked one up to try it out.
I also called Archie about the Powermaster 9004 12:1 compression starter to see if it fits.
As usual, Archie is great to share ideas with but he wasn't sure about the 9004 model.
I decided to order one up, so I can have a look at one in my hands vs. the Powermaster 9000
According the supplier's tech desk, the only dimension different is the length at 1 inch longer which shouldn't be an issue.
I will post results of my findings when I check it out this week.
I also finally got an exact compression ratio from Rod at Stroker Performance.
The compression was lowered to 9.8:1 for the nitrous application, so I shouldn't really need the most expensive starter you can buy.
On the other hand, we are driving smaller flexplates than most SBC's, so that may be a factor as it would change the overall gearing.
In the meantime, I took some pictures of my no name far east starter that looks identical to the Powermaster 9000.
The shop I got it from uses one to start big blocks on his dyno several times a week over the last 6 months, so I am hoping it will be good value and a 10 min drive if I ever need another one in a pinch.
Here is the starter out of the box right after I remounted the starter block 180 degrees for a V8 Archie automatic application:
On the test fit, I figured out where I would have to notch the block to clear the engine cradle - there was already a notch on the opposite corner but since I flipped it around, I needed to cut my own with a hacksaw:
In my case, 2 shims provided the best alignment and removing the shim between the starter and the block bought it a little closer to the flexplate:
The top bolt goes through Archie's sleeved hole and is a snug fit, while I bored the lower a little to allow for vertical tweaking:
Here is a shot of the remote oil filter adapter with the starter removed:
And one showing the clearance after the starter is reinstalled:
Last is the electrical connections, + terminal consists of:
1. battery positive cable (red)
2. LT1 computer power wire (black)
3. Battery charging wire - from alternator
and the small terminal takes the starter wire from the park/neutral plug on the transmission (Purple wire that is +12V when key in "start" position)
Feel free to ask questions if I've missed anything here...
P.S. The car starts easily and quickly now, but is noisy due to a worn flexplate that we forgot to replace - I will pick up a new one this winter to have on hand the next time the cradle is lowered from the engine bay for any reason.
Fiero2m8[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 09-30-2006).]
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Fiero2m8
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OCT 02, 04:41 PM
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Here's the specs on the Powermaster 9004.
It does look identical on the outside except the 1 inch additional length.
I might as well post the Installation Instructions too, since they apply to all Hitachi style Chevy Hi-Torque units:
Fiero2m8
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Fiero2m8
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OCT 25, 06:17 PM
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Fiero2m8
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DEC 02, 12:36 AM
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A few updates for the die hard build thread junkies 
Weather was good here last week, so I drove out to GM dealership that I know the owner of.
Their bodyshop has agreed to mask and paint any base / clear of my choice this spring when the bodywork is done.
Cost is $500 - for 2 hours prep and they supply materials.
Today I had a glass shop visit the garage and Rick removed my cracked windshield at no charge.
Once the car is painted he is returning to install a new one for $300 CDN. in the spring - he only needs 48hrs notice to order the glass / moulding. In the meantime I need to replace or repair the body trim surround that is broken.
Lately I've been reading up on bodywork / prep and still haven't decided whether to mold in my flairs and skirts yet.
Also today I ordered the light tan leatherette seats from Mr. Mikes - another winter project that should be here in about a week. I'll post pictures when they arrive - here is the online order form I used.
https://secure.bcentralhost.com/mrmikes.com/fieroxmas13.htm
Since the car is an open roadster, I actually prefer the idea of going with Leatherette given a remote possibility of them getting wet in the future.
Fiero2m8
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exoticse
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DEC 02, 12:47 AM
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Ever think of building some kind of diffuser for the back ?
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Fiero2m8
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DEC 02, 12:56 AM
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Yep quite a bit - it would look quite a bit better with some of that exhaust hidden.
Here was my first attempt but I didn't like the result enough to keep it on:
Since I can't get a jack under the car easily, I have been backing onto car ramps to work under the engine bay.
I guess I'd better finalize all the mods soon so I can work on finishing the prep work...
Any ideas or pic suggestions are welcome.
Rye
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THE BEAST
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DEC 02, 12:46 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Fiero2m8:
Went for a cruise tonight and got a few pictures before it got dark.
Nice to get some pictures from somewhere other than the garage.
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Where did you get the front spoiler?
Thanks,
JG
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Fiero2m8
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DEC 02, 01:10 PM
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Hey JG,
The front spoiler is off a 1990 Crysler Daytona Turbo.
The width is perfect for a bumper pad car but the sides had the be shortened due to less overhang on the the Fiero.
Currently the seam is covered by a small adhesive bodyside moulding, but I am considering moulding it in flush like Bonzo.
Although I'm a little worried about touching a curb and cracking it after paint...
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Fiero2m8
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JAN 02, 09:35 PM
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