88 Coupe 4.9 Swap Thread (Page 18/69)
josef644 NOV 15, 08:09 PM
It's Alive!!!

After installing the spark plug wires and adding a battery, I unplugged the fuel pump fuse. Cranked it over until I had oil pressure. Pressure came up after just a few rev's. I poured a tablespoon of gas down each throttle bore. I reach in and turned the key. She hit and ran about 6 seconds. I hit the key again and it ran about 3-4 seconds without adding fuel again. I added some more gas and watched the oil pressure gage this time. It was about half way between 60 and 80 lbs of oil pressure while running. I plugged in the fuel pump fuse and added a test light to the ALDL Turned the key and the light come on for a bit . It comes back on when the starter is cranked over. I ran it about 50- 60 seconds today a litle bit at a time as I don't have a cooling system connected up yet. It would run as long as I kept adding fuel to the T body. I depressed the schrader valve and got a nice shot of gas leaving the fuel rail.

I am 100% sure I have the fuel supply line connected to the port on the right, and not the one that goes to the regulator. It is the return line. Right?

The engine idled fine untill all the fuel is exhausted from the throttle bores.
I will check for injector +12 at C203 'J & K'. If these are good, I'll move outside to the engine bay and see if I have +12 at the injector harness connector.

Speedo zeros when the key is turned or the engine was running.

Absolutly no viberation at all with the engine running.

No fuel or oil leaks anywhere

If I can get it to idle I will hook up my lapttop and test out the Dodgerunner's ALDL cable to see if it will run the TunnerPro software. I have added a jumper to ALDL pin 'E' from lead 'M' to see if this will work.

I have positioned my muffler's inlet up arount the exhaust stubbbie. The exhaust sounds real good.

I will make a video clip when I correct the fuel problem. A 6 second clip isn't worth the time to mess with it.

Did I say it sounds GREAT when it is running

+12 at he C203 J and K, and all the way out to the injector connector. They were lettered J and K there also. Go figure
Checking things over and discovered the green ECM connector was not seated all the way. VAts bypass is F10 in there. Pushed it and and started it up. Ran it about 15 seconds. Has a hard miss. It ran smooth and great on poured in gas. That by it self would eliminate the ingition. Has to be a either bad or miss wired injectors. I will check for miss wired injectors tomorrow. I will unplug the harness and route it inside the car by the ECM plugs. Ohm em all out

Is there a way to check the injectors with out taking them apart?

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-15-2009).]

olejoedad NOV 16, 12:28 AM
Can you borrow a set of NOID lights?
Fieroseverywhere NOV 16, 10:25 AM
Great work!!

On your injector wires. Double check the black/red wires. I may be wrong on the exact color but there should be two of them the same color. Just make sure they are in the correct spots. If you look at the 92-93 wiring diagrams you will see what I'm talking about.

EDIT: http://members.shaw.ca/efog...service%20manual.pdf

Just double checked. According to the wiring diagram both wires are Blk/Lt blu. I'm pretty sure mine were blk/red. Check PCM pins C15 = injector #4, D14 = injector #7. Double check with a continuety tester to be sure they are in the right place. Wont idle well with them reversed. You can switch pins at the PCM if needed to easily correct the problem.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 11-16-2009).]

josef644 NOV 16, 10:50 AM

quote
Originally posted by olejoedad:

Can you borrow a set of NOID lights?



Gonna look for a set today
Mickey_Moose NOV 16, 01:09 PM
as posted in other thread, is your VATS (passkey) disabled? If not that is the reason why...
josef644 NOV 16, 01:47 PM
No luck on finding NOIDS Lites here


quote
Originally posted by Mickey_Moose:

fuel problem could be VATS (passkey) - did you have it programmed out?



I have a Baker Electronix VATS by pass. And the green Led is on. I also verified the connection to ECM F10. It has to be working or I wouldn't be able to get it to run from the injectors for around 12-15 seconds before I killed the ingnition.

Would it help or hinder for me to remove the 8 injectors and put them in a quart of thinner to help get them unstopped?

Gonna go remove the injector part of the harness now to verify the connections with the pin positions.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-16-2009).]

josef644 NOV 16, 05:46 PM
All ten injector wires check out perfect all the way from the ECM to the injector connector. I did find two wires like shown in these pictures The wires were twisted 360* and were shorting out:



# 6 & 8 injectors were wet, all the rest were dry.

Im gonna remove the injectors from the fuel rails and clean them up good with some fresh gas. I will order new 'O' rings for the bottom and tops tomorrow. I'm gonna set up and do a quick spray test with the rails and injectors off of the engine as fieroguru suggested.


quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:

You probably have at least 1 if not more plugged injectors (these 4.9's are notorious for them).

Last 4.9 swap I did, the 64K mile engine had 3-4 clogged injectors. Took the fuel rail/injectors off another engine and every one of them was clogged.

I made a little injector test stand along side the car, ran the fuel return/supply to it and jumpered the fuel pump to stay on. Then made a jumper harness that plugged into the injector harness and added 12V and ground to let them spray... just make sure there are no sparks/fires/ignitions sources around and only spray them long enough to check the pattern of each.



Thats a great idea, I never would have thought of doing this.

I just went to Rockauto to check prices, they were $57.00 and up, to $112.00 each.

Nothing left to do tonight

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-16-2009).]

30+mpg NOV 16, 06:45 PM
If you have 2 wires & a 9v battery here's a simple injector test.

1. Clip a couple of alligator clip ended wires to a removed injector.

2. Place a few drops of gas in the injector inlet.

3. Pressurize the injector by placing the inlet end in your mouth and blowing while touching the leads to a 9v battery.

4. The voltage should activate the injector which will let you see the gas squirting out of the nozzle end.

If the battery doesn't activate the solenoid in the injector, it's bad.

If the solenoid moves the plunger but no gas squirts out, the injector is clogged.

If the gas only drips out instead of sprays the injector is still clogged, just not as bad as above.

Ralph Nader types: ignore this post.

[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 11-16-2009).]

josef644 NOV 16, 07:44 PM
I guess I could just use a piece of fuel hose on the top of the injector, and add a dab of air pressure. Say 10lbs? I also have a 12 V lawn mower battery. And I would think one could use just about any type of petroluem based liquid, gas , diesel or what ever is in the shop.

I hate the taste of gas.

Great ideas here.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-16-2009).]

fieroguru NOV 17, 08:50 AM
You really need to check them at operating pressure with fuel.... since there are several failure modes for injectors: Stuck closed, Stuck open, and partially clogged producing a poor spray pattern and less fuel delivery.

I will have to go back and check some PM's, but a set of 8 rebuilt injectors was around $150.

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 11-17-2009).]