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| Fiero Argento Signora build thread w/lots 'o' pics (Page 18/21) |
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davylong86
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AUG 16, 01:22 PM
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A 115lb dog makes a great security system for your fiero lol! I guess I know who to ask about 4.9 swap,sounds like you had a little practice.
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Neils88
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AUG 16, 08:45 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:
As you can see the paint on the valve covers did not hold up. I haven't decided if a color change is in order yet. Definitely a new type of paint. What works best on magnesium? Anyone know?
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Definitely can't use regular engine paints. I've got a baked on engine paint, but I'm sure I'm running on borrowed time before chunks fall off. I didn't do my research until after it was painted. Fortunately the engine will be coming out sometime in the next year when I do the body kit, so I plan of sand blasting and properly painting/powder coating everything at that point.
For the valve covers, you need to follow a special procedure:
You need to start by degreasing the magnesium by scrubbing it with an alkaline cleanser. Then apply a chromic acid treatment (you have to be really careful with this!). The acid gets neutralized and rinsed off. Next you use a zinc chromate spray primer followed by a zinc chromate spray paint.
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Fieroseverywhere
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AUG 17, 11:47 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by davylong86:
A 115lb dog makes a great security system for your fiero lol! I guess I know who to ask about 4.9 swap,sounds like you had a little practice. |
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He's a cool dog. Very mellow. He just likes to hang out with his people. I've only heard him bark a handful of times. He will bark once when something is out of the ordinary outside. Best dog I've ever had by far. Akita's are an amazing breed.
I can't find the pic of him in the fiero. I'll have to take a new one.
| quote | Originally posted by Neils88:
For the valve covers, you need to follow a special procedure:
You need to start by degreasing the magnesium by scrubbing it with an alkaline cleanser. Then apply a chromic acid treatment (you have to be really careful with this!). The acid gets neutralized and rinsed off. Next you use a zinc chromate spray primer followed by a zinc chromate spray paint. |
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Thanks for this. I knew it was a procedure. I will see what I can come up with. I was considering an epoxy paint as I think it will last longer. We have cases of the zinc chromate primer at work that I can use.
I may just send a few parts to be powder coated. I was trying to find a old thread. It was a forum member that was offering powder coating for other members. He was located in my town. If I can find the thread again I will try to contact him. Maybe he still does it? His name was Excelon or something.
A little update while I'm here... 3 of us spent a very long day working on the car yesterday. We got a ton done. The goal was to start with the engine on the cradle and end with it rebuilt and on the engine stand. We almost did it too.
I don't know of I'll have time today but I have about 50 more pics to post. The house if getting an appraisal tomorrow as the final step before the refinance. There is a lot of final cleanup to do. Another busy day. Yay. 
Later[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 08-17-2014).]
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Fieroseverywhere
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AUG 17, 01:33 PM
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Neils88
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AUG 17, 09:19 PM
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I'm assuming you used new head bolts. Where did you find them? I've been trying to find a place that sells new 4.9 head bolts, but can't find them anywhere. It's the only reason I have done a full rebuild of my 4.9.
Engine looks great now! can't wait to see what you do next with it
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Fieroseverywhere
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AUG 17, 10:59 PM
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No reason to use new ones. These are still in great shape. They are not torque to yield.
Once again I forgot to measure them while they were out. And only yesterday this time! I just checked the best I can with only the heads on.
20 bolts total, 17mm head . Thread: M12 x 1.75, grade: 10.9, length to shoulder is approx 6"-6.25". 10 have flanged shoulder. 10 have studs on top for the rocker support nuts. Studs are 1.5" with m10 x 1.5 thread.
If you find some suitable replacements let us know!
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Neils88
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AUG 18, 12:46 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:
No reason to use new ones. These are still in great shape. They are not torque to yield.
Once again I forgot to measure them while they were out. And only yesterday this time! I just checked the best I can with only the heads on.
20 bolts total, 17mm head . Thread: M12 x 1.75, grade: 10.9, length to shoulder is approx 6"-6.25". 10 have flanged shoulder. 10 have studs on top for the rocker support nuts. Studs are 1.5" with m10 x 1.5 thread.
If you find some suitable replacements let us know! |
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For some reason I thought I had read that they were torque to yield. I'm going to keep looking for a replacement set anyway, but good to know I can use my old ones. I'm going to be adding a turbo to my 4.9...just nice to know that I can do the full rebuild when things go wrong in the tuning 
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Fieroseverywhere
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AUG 18, 11:32 PM
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Despite what has been stated on the forum this is NOT a difficult motor to rebuild.
Except for the aluminum block and cast iron cylinder sleeves it rebuilds like any other engine.
Be careful with the head bolts. Remember they thread into aluminum. Use heat and wd40, etc the first time especially. The 10 outside bolts can/should be lubed from outside the block. The inner ones aren't usually a problem. 9 of them can be lubed after the intake is off. Be extra careful with the one you can't lube.
Its best not to rotate the engine with the heads off. This can sometimes push the sleeves out and require re-sealing. Some short M12x1.75 bolts and a some large washers can hold all 8 sleeves in place if you don't want to disturb them. If they don't leak, don't "fix" em. 
The sleeves can be removed cleaned and reinstalled with new o-rings and Hylomar. Just keep the cylinder sleeves in their original place and orientation if you must remove them. If you put them back in the same place and orientation you won't have to do this>>>>> After re-install check the cylinder sleeve height above the deck height. For this you will need a dial indicator or another accurate way to measure the .008"-.020" over deck height range.... On second thought, just don't remove them. 
EDIT: Oh. Don't swap them between motors either. Its even more of a PITA.[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 08-21-2014).]
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Fieroseverywhere
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AUG 30, 03:31 PM
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Update time.
I'm still looking for a set of steel Allante rocker bridges. Anyone have a set?

Intake on and torqued to spec in sequence.

Putting on the rockers I managed to break one of the smaller bolts. 
 Its one that goes here...
 Replacements were ordered from fastenall. They are a flanged M6x1.0 1.25" long (~30mm) 9.8 grade. For reference purposes only.
Working on the deck lid scoop. This will be used for the air intake. It will be molded into the deck. Still a ways to go on it.


A bit of work on the lip also...


Valve covers repainted. Glass bead blasted, zinc chromate primer, red enamel, black enamel, sanded ribs, 3 coats of clear. They turned out pretty good. Next time I will brush on the black like I did the first time.


Started work on the air intake pan. 2024 aluminum, 3" deep, tig welded, custom fitted pan. This will be secured to the deck lid with a foam seal. With the scoop molded in I will have to remove this pan to clean/change the air filter. For the air cleaner I will be using a 15" x 8.25" oval air cleaner assembly mounted inside the pan. To space out the throttle body to the top of this pan I will use a velocity stack. Should get good, cold airflow but still be in a short package.








Back to the engine. Slowly putting it all back together after cleanup. Lots of time into cleanup. Only a few minor changes, mostly to hiding and straightening up the wiring.




Straightened and reinforced engine mount. Too much material was removed from the center. This lead to it bending at the edge of the gusset. I added 2 more gussets to the outside. I also added 1/4" to the bottom to raise the engine slightly.


More engine work. Progress shots...














That is it for now. Waiting on a new clutch release bearing, throttle body gasket, and flywheel resurface. A new clutch will be going in as the release bearing has seized and worn the pressure plate fingers too much to reuse. I will also be starting on some interior work soon and ordering hardware/software to start tuning. Lots more to come. The car will probably be in the garage for at least another month while it gets its upgrades.
Later.
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davylong86
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AUG 30, 07:40 PM
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Now that is one sweet looking engine!Great job.
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