Aurora 4.0l / Izuzu 5 speed swap into 88 coupe (Page 18/102)
ryan.hess JAN 16, 08:01 PM

quote
Originally posted by cptsnoopy:
thanks for the heads up... I had read your thread on it and ended up triple checking all the values... I have a couple of questions though...

1. there did you mount the thermistor? (is it mounted on the pcb or somewhere else?)
2. for the NTK jumper (on for LSU) the holes in the pcb are too small for the jumper prongs to fit into. did you use something else?


The thermistor is mounted near an IC, I think on the opposite end of the board as the o2 connector. It wasn't labled on mine, I think it just had like a little circle or something. It's just "2 oddly placed pads" you'll have left over

I just soldered a resistor leg into the ntk jumper. I don't plan on switching sensors any time soon... If I have to, I'll just cut it.

http://wbo2.com/2a0/const/r4comp.jpg
In that image, you can see the thermistor inbetween the far left LMC6484 and 74HC4052.

Also note that soldering the test points is harder than it's really worth. With nothing soldered in the "holes", a test probe easily fits without sliding around like you would have trying to hold it onto a test point pin.

cptsnoopy JAN 17, 12:36 AM
thanks Ryan,

I can see where the thermistor goes now.


quote
Originally posted by ryan.hess:
Also note that soldering the test points is harder than it's really worth. With nothing soldered in the "holes", a test probe easily fits without sliding around like you would have trying to hold it onto a test point pin.

yup, it was a pita getting those pins in straight! it's already done though.

cptsnoopy JAN 17, 05:47 PM
happiness...

[This message has been edited by cptsnoopy (edited 05-11-2012).]

ryan.hess JAN 17, 10:11 PM
But the _real_ question... does it work?
cptsnoopy JAN 18, 02:31 AM

quote
Originally posted by ryan.hess:

But the _real_ question... does it work?


lol, so right! I don't know if it works or not. smoke testing date is still not determined...


GSXRBOBBY JAN 19, 11:34 AM
All this is to get the tach to work?

------------------
Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
219customs@verizon.net
My 86 GT build thread
MY 88 Northstar build thread

cptsnoopy JAN 19, 02:20 PM

quote
Originally posted by GSXRBOBBY:

All this is to get the tach to work?




this wideband o2 senser is supposed to take all the guess-work out of setting up the air/fuel tables in the computer. instead of telling it what injector pulse width you want at a given throttle position, manifold pressure, tempature, etc. you now tell the computer what air/fuel ratio you want it to try to achieve at the above condtitions. and you can ask it to run rich or lean of 14.7. the o2 sensor tells the computer what air/fuel ratio it is sensing and the computer changes the injector pulse width towards the target air/fuel ratio. well, I think that is what it is supposed to do. Ryan can tell you since his is working already...

this is the finished product:

[This message has been edited by cptsnoopy (edited 05-11-2012).]

ryan.hess JAN 19, 07:44 PM

quote
Originally posted by cptsnoopy:
this wideband o2 senser is supposed to take all the guess-work out of setting up the air/fuel tables in the computer. instead of telling it what injector pulse width you want at a given throttle position, manifold pressure, tempature, etc. you now tell the computer what air/fuel ratio you want it to try to achieve at the above condtitions. and you can ask it to run rich or lean of 14.7. the o2 sensor tells the computer what air/fuel ratio it is sensing and the computer changes the injector pulse width towards the target air/fuel ratio. well, I think that is what it is supposed to do. Ryan can tell you since his is working already...

Kinda/sorta/notreally...

A "regular" narrow band O2 sensor only tells you IF the mixture is EXACTLY 14.7:1. If it's not, it'll scream "rich!" or "lean!". Problem is, when you want to run at 12.6-12.8:1 for the most power at wide-open, (some late models have shown that even 13.2:1 can get even more power, and better fuel economy) you don't know really where that is. It can only say, "well, it's richer than 14.7:1". Wideband tells you exactly what the ratio is. This means that you can easily dial in the whole fuel map without guessing anything... With a narrow band sensor, 0.8 volts could mean 12.0:1 OR 14.0:1... one of these will melt your pistons, the other won't. On top of that, if you run boost or nitrous, wideband is the only way to go. It only takes one run to lean out too much, then "it don't go". Plus it does what you said above, when in closed loop mode, it tracks the 14.7:1 stoichiometric ratio, and adds/subracts fuel as necessary... at least when you plug it into an ECM/computer that is.

cptsnoopy JAN 19, 08:12 PM
Thanks Ryan!
cptsnoopy JAN 27, 05:17 PM
finally back to playing with the car. just wanted to post this little mod to the cats that Ryan sold me. I would think that most cats are made like this but I don't really have any idea. but just in case...
the pipe extensions that are welded on the ends of the cat to clamp or weld the cat onto your exhaust system may stick into the cat cavity a little bit. if it does like these do I would imagine that would cause an airflow restriction. so if you have a dremel tool with a cut off bit handy you can remove the part that sticks inside as shown here. you will have to cut the pipe extension off of the cat to get to this part. I needed the bends to start right at the ends of the cat so I cut mine off for that reason and then saw this "problem". if your looking to get all of the unnecessary restrictions removed and still have to use a cat this may help.

cat with pipe extension cut off outside of cat but still sticking into the cat about 3/4" or so.


cat after mod. I left a little bit of the pipe (approx 1/4") for strength and more metal to weld to.


here is the piece that was sticking into the cat.

[This message has been edited by cptsnoopy (edited 05-11-2012).]