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| Aurora 4.0l / Izuzu 5 speed swap into 88 coupe (Page 17/102) |
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ryan.hess
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DEC 29, 01:05 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by cptsnoopy:
Here is what I was working on when things got hot... |
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Hmm... why are you cutting your strut towers now? Also, something to consider..... Right where you have the crossover underneath the oil pan... there used to be a brace between the bottom of the oil pan, and the auto trans. IMHO, it's a very integral part of the structure that keeps the engine and transmission from flexing. (Why else would they make it out of 1/8" steel?)
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GSXRBOBBY
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DEC 29, 01:49 AM
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He has an 88, he needs the room. ------------------
Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
219customs@verizon.net
My build thread
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ryan.hess
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DEC 29, 02:24 AM
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| quote | | Originally posted by GSXRBOBBY: He has an 88, he needs the room. |
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Ahh... wasn't aware you had to do that.
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cptsnoopy
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DEC 29, 03:18 AM
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| quote | | Originally posted by ryan.hess:
Hmm... why are you cutting your strut towers now?
Also, something to consider..... Right where you have the crossover underneath the oil pan... there used to be a brace between the bottom of the oil pan, and the auto trans. IMHO, it's a very integral part of the structure that keeps the engine and transmission from flexing. (Why else would they make it out of 1/8" steel?) |
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I could have moved the trans to the left a about 1/2" to 3/4" of an inch and maybe I would have had enough room. I felt it would be easier to cut the strut tower and use coilover shocks than to risk the problems of needing different length half shafts. I cut into the strut tower earlier this year in May. I am just now getting to the task of finishing it. I still need to finish the passenger side decklid hinge support then most of the spaceframe work will be done. I squished the exhaust going under the pan in hopes of being able to use an engine to trans support there. I can't see how it will support the trans from flexing very well since it will be alot longer than the original support for the 4T80 but it won't hurt to make one up anyway. I'll use either 1/8" or 1/4" steel but no thinner than that.
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Rickady88GT
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DEC 29, 02:15 PM
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I got the tank for about $10 used.
I used two 90* sections of 2.5 of exhaust doghnuts for the duel exhaust system. The sections are trimed and welded back to back to form a smooth flowing "T" but it is more like a "Y" than a T. The inlet to the "Y" is 3" the two out lets are 2.5.
It is kina hard to see but it is not a "T" I never got any close ups of it.[This message has been edited by Rickady88GT (edited 12-29-2004).]
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cptsnoopy
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DEC 29, 06:32 PM
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Thanks Rickady88GT, I will look around for the tank as I am nearing the point of working on the cooling system. That Y must have been fun to make. 
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cptsnoopy
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DEC 31, 08:54 PM
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HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!
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cptsnoopy
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JAN 15, 01:14 AM
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i borrowed Ryan's idea and got a DIY WBO2 kit from Tech-Edge. the kit and sensor came to around $215. I spent most of the day on it but I will be going out of town again Saturday and Sunday. I will need to spend another whole day at least to finish it.
just a bag of parts earlier today...
 [This message has been edited by cptsnoopy (edited 05-11-2012).]
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ryan.hess
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JAN 15, 12:26 PM
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| quote | | Originally posted by cptsnoopy: i borrowed Ryan's idea and got a DIY WBO2 kit from Tech-Edge. the kit and sensor came to around $215. |
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Don't forget to measure those resistors... Don't trust the markings on the tape 
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cptsnoopy
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JAN 16, 04:30 PM
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| quote | | Originally posted by ryan.hess: Don't forget to measure those resistors... Don't trust the markings on the tape |
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thanks for the heads up... I had read your thread on it and ended up triple checking all the values... I have a couple of questions though... 1. where did you mount the thermistor? (is it mounted on the pcb or somewhere else?)
2. for the NTK jumper (on for LSU) the holes in the pcb are too small for the jumper prongs to fit into. did you use something else? [This message has been edited by cptsnoopy (edited 04-19-2005).]
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