Fiero 2m8 LT1 NX Roadster conversion (Page 15/46)
Fiero2m8 AUG 17, 12:28 PM
When you add up the widths of a LT1 with the cam driven water pump, a 4T60 and an Archie automatic adapter plate, it makes for a really wide setup to fit between the frame rails.
That is why I chose to modify Archie's harmonic balancer pulley to fit the LT1, to reduce required clearance over a serpentine belt pulley.
However when everything was together and running, I watched the belt flip over at high rpms - a problem that must be solved ASAP. I know some people have added a tensioner pulley with success, but I had no problems last year. I figured I screwed up somewhere this time - (my memory's good, but short )

My theory to fix the belt problem was to check these 5 things to determine causes before coming up with solutions:

1. Check for proper belt size.
2. Check pulley clearances to frame.
3. Check pulley alignment.
4. Check pulley on centre.
5. Check belt tension.

Here's what I found:

1. I was sold a 17038 belt in error (belt didn't match package) - after checking Archie's instructions and checking the alternator slot location, I bought a 15/32 wide x 39" long V-belt (15039)

2. Under load in drive, I heard a metal noise and the cause was the alternator shaft touching the frame. This was solved by grinding the overly long shaft until is was almost flush with the pulley.

3. I found the original washers I used to align the alternator, at that time I used two, I changed this to one fender washer that was thick enough to clear the valve cover, provide addtional clearance to the frame and have vitually zero offset between the two pulleys.

4. Unfortunately, my modified balancer pulley relied on the crank bolt to centre the assembly. NOT a good idea because even if you get it on perfect, tensioning the belt could move it. Watching the pulley spinning, I determined by eye that it was unbalanced/offcentre slightly causing a unwanted vibration, additional wear on my new crank, and belt bounce.
I needed to improve on this Mickey Mouse design, so I asked my engine builder Rod for advice.
He suggested centering the pulley using a outer sleeve over the hub of the pulley and the hub over the crank. That is the best way to centre the assembly and let the bolt do only what it is designed to do - hold it on!

A quick trip to the Metal Supermarket for a 2" piece of thick wall pipe slightly smaller diameter that the hub would do the trick.
After I returned with the piece, Rod pressed it on the pulley with a 25 ton press and a little heat. It is stronger that a weld and still balanced.

Next I called my Dad's friend Gary who has a lathe in his garage. He machined the rest of the pipe and pulley to bring all dimensions within 2 thou. The inside diameter of the pipe needed to be 1.770" and here are some pictures of that process:

Mounted in lathe and checked outer pulley that was within 2 thousandths of an inch during a full revolution:




A good shot of the pipe pressed on the hub:




Both the outside and inside of the pipe with be machined true to the pulley:




I wanted the outside thinned a little to avoid interference with the OptiSpark distributor:




The outside a the pulley was trued up to avoid a wobble or unbalanced situation - the bonus was I gained addtional clearance to my frame rail once remounted:




Here is a shot of it remounted - unfortunately in order to tap it on with a rubber mallet, I first had to lower the rear engine cradle bolt approx 1/2". The front engine mount sits on the lower holes that allows clearance to the crank bolt. The best part is I was able to get the belt on after mounting the balancer pulley
Since the crank is internally balanced, this pulley is neutral and a quick check with my new dial indicator confirmed that it is now within 2 thou of centre on the engine, just like it was in the lathe:




5. The research I did suggested approx 3/8 - 1/2" of deflection at the centre of the two pulleys. Here is a shot of the one man method I used. It involves prying the alternator bracket away from the water pump with a pipe. It was easy to tighten the nuts with the other hand. I like this method as it can be done by yourself from the top, even with the car on the ground:



I hope this writeup helps someones search of the archives one day

Fiero2m8
Fiero2m8 AUG 18, 10:16 AM
Some pictures of the outside washed and the interior cleaned up:









Leather seats are not in the budget this year, so black seat covers and new floor mats are going on today.
PBJ AUG 18, 10:19 AM
Wow, looking good all cleaned up.

Pete
Fiero2m8 AUG 18, 10:34 AM
Last night I worked on a couple exhaust leaks.
New gaskets on the collector were installed as the nuts came loose on the old ones.
Also the rear header was leaking in the centre.
The spacer wasn't leaking but the header flange was warped.
I removed the header and cut the flange in two spots to allow each tube to bolt independently.
Then I managed to burn my chest on a warm catalytic converter - oops, my tan doesn't look right now

Here is the header removed - you can see my spacer flange used to clear the 4T60:




Action shot showing off my multi-tasking ability...




Here is the header back on with double header gaskets - no leaks so far:



Today it's going to the muffler shop who originally built the exhaust to adjust the driver's side tailpipe tip to match the right.



With any luck, I'll bring it out to the cruise night in Welland tonight to show as a work in progress.

Ryan
Fiero2m8 AUG 19, 12:42 AM
Went over to see Darren at Zoro Muffler, who built the custom exhaust to get the left tip to match the right.
He used a little heat to straighten it up and then let me poke around under the hoist.
I wish I had one in my garage!

I was able to fix a couple minor leaks, improve on the strut bar mounting, and trim a few long sway bar studs that touched with pulling car onto the hoist:

Leaks were:

1. Coolant near the front of the passenger rocker tube - just tightened clamp with hose warm.
2. Gas droplet near the retun line on the tank - just tightened loose clamp.

I also asked him about the 2.5" collector gaskets that seem to leak on me over time - he suggested picking up some metal ones at a speed shop and he will put them on. I plan to check that out next week.

Here is a couple pics of the car back home with the exhaust redone at no charge - actually I gave him a Canadian Tire gift certificate, even though he said repeatly that I didn't have to do that:







I am also pleased to report that the major problem I had with the car before the engine was rebuilt and was still happening this week was finally solved at the shop today!

I had a rough idle, and a very rich bank on the drivers side right exhaust.
The cat was very hot and so was the temp of that exhaust causing added heat in the engine bay.
Hoping is wasn't a computer issue, I tried swapping the O2 sensors to see if the other bank ran rich/hot.
Luckily it did, so I walked across the street to pickup a couple new O2 sensors and it solved the problem.
Moral of this story is if you see a glowing cat, are getting poor mileage, or excessive heat - check the O2 sensors even if they are relatively new (mine were only 1 year old).
Lucky for me it was a cheap fix
More importantly the idle improved and the heat and gas consumption were reduced
It did however foul my colder nitrous plugs on the one bank, so I put a new set of standard heat range ones in for now (since the nitrous isn't hooked up yet)

I did make it over to the cruise night at the Seaway Mall in Welland after a last minute battery purchase - don't let them tell you they are ready to go Mine barely started the motor and is on trickle charge tonight.

The Fiero was a hit at the show being the only obvious work in progress car and very unique and new for everyone to check out. I'm sure we all love talking Fieros and I met a few other local owners and directed them to PFF.

My next outing planned is the cruise night in Niagara Falls Sunday night. It has all the domestics on one side and the ricers on the other - major fun watching them take off down the strip afterwards....

So what's on for the rest of the weekend:

Hopefully seat covers, trunk insulation / carpet and a exterior comestic touch up if time permits Sunday.
I went for a long haul tonight up hight 406 with my 9 year old son Andrew. We both had smiles ear to ear, although I had to laugh when he squirmed in his seat whenever I used half throttle (still haven't floored it yet while I break in the motor). All I have to say is the 4T60 is SWEEEEET!

I am losing sleep over whether my trunk is too warm for my 10lb Nitrous bottle, as I currently don't have room in the front compartment. I ran a thermometer is the trunk tonight for an hour of various driving and the highest temp reach was 92 degrees F.

What do you guys think? I do have a bottle pressure guage and was wondering if anyone has installed a bottle in the trunk with success?

Ryan and Fiero2m8

------------------

1986 Fiero2m8 (LT1 NX / 4T60 Roadster Build)
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/071642.html

Fiero2m8 AUG 19, 03:38 PM
I slept in this morning but woke up with a plan for finishing the trunk with insulation and carpet.
It took only 2 hours and cost $15

First I went up to the loft to grab the rest of the duct insulation roll I used under the carpet in the passenger compartment:

I is a aluminum foil backed fiberglass insulation designed to insulate warm air ducwork passing through unheated spaces:



I cut a pattern and decided to double it up with the foil on the outsides:




Next I installed the first layer in the hottest area of the trunk:



Second layer:



I then proceeded to cover the rest of the trunk except the ECM cover with a double layer of insulation:






Now I was ready for the carpet - this time this rubber backed three piece set from Wal-Mart



Here are the tools required and the left over carpet pieces:



Finally a few shots of the completed job - much better looking in my opinion







Another budget mod, so that most of the budget is focused on performance

Ryan

P.S. someone should get page 5 soon!
Scott-Wa AUG 20, 12:30 AM
I think I've missed this thread the whole time... pretty impressive. Looks like a lot of well spent time sorting out that swap, kudos to you.

The convertible top mods using the parts off the sunbird were a stroke of genius. I'm looking forward to seeing the notchback area finished off.
BERKELUSA AUG 20, 10:52 AM

quote
Originally posted by Scott-Wa: I think I've missed this thread the whole time... pretty impressive. Looks like a lot of well spent time sorting out that swap, kudos to you. The convertible top mods using the parts off the sunbird were a stroke of genius. I'm looking forward to seeing the notchback area finished off.



Shhh he got that from me.. lol

Good fit right 2M ?!?!

Just finished your pages.. eyes hurt now from all the reading.. lol

Regards Rob in NH

PS: You need to move SOUTH

------------------

Rob's two Fieros will eventually be one 6" longer convertible

yosemitefieros AUG 20, 02:19 PM
Man... You make me feel guilty with my '88 SD4 knotchie hanging from my A frame for three years...

I'm such a stinkin' procrastinator...

Nice job!

Gary
Fiero2m8 AUG 20, 06:44 PM
Thanks guys.

Welcome to the thread Scott-Wa!

Yes Rob, your thread popped in my head when I stumbled across a Sunbird convertible at the boneyard - and yes, those windshield parts haven't been modified at all yet - so they fit pretty good.
Rob takes the best pictures I have seen - kudos!

Well Gary, it has been almost 8 months since I started.
So far I have still managed to keep my full time job and wife, so the project must be considered "successful" so far
I was always worried that it would never get done, but this thread and comments like "I can't wait to see it finished" keep me going.

Somehow I think it may never be truly "finished" but by next spring it will certainly be less of an eyesore.

So, I managed to finish the Nitrous plumbing today

Here are the shots of that:

Mounted bottle in trunk ensuring pickup tube is at the lowest point in the bottle:




It fits nicely in the lower section of my custom trunk:




I installed a ZEX pressure guage just off the bottle that read 750psi at 70 degrees today.




That should get me in the right ballpark at 90 degrees, my guess is 950-1000 psi - I'll post results, as time will tell:




Next I used the NX sealant, (looks like red threadlocker to me) on all pipe thread fittings - the AN fittings don't need any.
They advise not to use teflon tape as pieces could clog the solenoid.
I relocated the fuel solenoid and added the Hobbs (fuel pressure safety) switch:




Next the schrader valve was removed with a valve tool, so I could feed the fuel solenoid at the same spot I check fuel pressure from:




All that is left on the NX kit is electrical hookups including WOT switch, relay, digital window switch and arming switch etc.

A little more bedtime reading and it should be done this week

Heading out now and will take my camera to tonight's cruise night - if I get any good shots, I'll post them on another thread.

Fiero2m8