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| WAWUZAT Northstar build thread (lots of pix) (Page 14/16) |
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WAWUZAT
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DEC 23, 07:02 PM
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Russ544
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DEC 24, 11:28 AM
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The Hayabusa V-8 is an impressive design for sure, but would be a dissapointment in our 2800 lb cars. with 250 ft lb of torque it would need a light chasis to drag around in order to see it's actual potential, and would have a pretty narrow power band I would imagine....... stilll... it is an awsome design for it's intended use. I'd love to get ahold of one myself actually  .
looks like you're getting your project well in hand. that's some awsome work there guy. I especially like the sway bar tube/crossmember idea.
Russ544
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Will
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DEC 24, 09:46 PM
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You'd just need stiff enough gears to make it work.
The 2.8 Fiero only made 175 ftlbs and it did OK with a 12:1 overall first...
Now imagine having 40% more torque and carrying that first to 70 MPH instead of 35...[This message has been edited by Will (edited 12-24-2007).]
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THE BEAST
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DEC 26, 08:50 PM
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Nice, I also think this engine will really do for a nice engine swap, not only you can reach 70 mph in first gear, but the handling with this engine has to be great since it is one light little engine. Man I wish I could afford it.
JG
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WAWUZAT
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DEC 28, 03:44 PM
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| quote | | Originally posted by Russ544:looks like you're getting your project well in hand. that's some awsome work there guy. I especially like the sway bar tube/crossmember idea.Russ544 |
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Thanks, Russ. After seeing your handywork, I accept your compliment in the highest regard. I originally gave thought to using the front cross-member as a pipe to transfer the engine coolant from the passenger-side of the car, but that left me with the question of where to mount the anti-swaybar. I opted to fab the swaybar-tube as a cross-member because I can always route the coolant plumbing a different way. Gotta' install the more difficult items first, then the plumbing, and save the wiring for last.
I finished fabricating the drivetrain mounts today, and pulled everything back apart so I can paint the items. I straightened the cross-member tube by cutting two strategically placed slots across the bottom of the tube, and welded the slots closed. The draw from welding pulled the tube almost straight, and once I cut & welded a third slot, the tube was near perfectly straight again.
In order to make reinstallation easier, I beveled the motor mounts so the polyurethane bushings will slide between them when I lower it back onto the cradle. I'll post more pix when painting is complete, and the drivetrain is mated to the cradle again ... and hopefully for the last time. Then it will be time to insert this thing in the car.
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WAWUZAT
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JAN 01, 07:31 PM
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Happy New Year! I spent part of the day reinstalling the motor mounts so I could reintroduce the drivetrain to the cradle. I'll replace the motor mount nuts with a self-locking variety later. For now, it's ready for popping back into the car. Then this project is going to sit idle a few months while I manufacture more radius-rods for Ford Excursions. Here's a couple pix, and I'll post more after it's in the car.
In this first shot, you can see my combination front crossmember / anti-swaybar housing ...
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HTXtremes
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JAN 01, 11:23 PM
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Where did you get the tubs and poly bushings you are using for the motor mounts? I am installing a Twin Turbo 4.0 Aurora with a G6 6 speed in my 88 coupe/F-40 replica, and have been looking for a solution to motor mounts. Thanks and Great build by the way I've been following it.
James------------------
'88 Coupe (extensive mods underway)
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/086359.html
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Kuta
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JAN 03, 09:22 AM
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What a great thread! Looking forward to the conclusion 
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WAWUZAT
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JAN 06, 05:11 PM
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Well, the engine is finally in the car, but not without a couple minor hiccups. See below ...
In this first photo, you can see that I have ample clearance along the passenger-side of the engine compartment ...
And this photo shows that I have a LOT of room for running the exhaust cross-over pipe from the rear head, and down to the 2-in/2-out catalytic converter (similar to the standard V6 exhaust routing) which will be mounted below the front crossmember. I have enough room that I can run the exhaust pipe between the transaxle and the strut tower ...
I'm kicking myself in the tail for cutting out the front bulkhead of the trunk. It looks like I would've had plenty of room there, too. Oh well, I wanted a fresh look for that bulkhead anyways ...
Now here is a close-call that I did not anticipate. The front valve cover is a fraction of an inch below the bottom edge of the rear window. I can fix this easy enough, but it will have to wait a few months. I'll also need to fab a flush-fitting "710" cap to screw into the cover.
This water pump pulley gave me some concern, but it does (barely) clear the passenger cabin's rear bulkhead. Later, I'll fabricate a clearance hump in that bulkhead.
The alternator did not clear the chassis crossmember shown below. It was hard against this member, so I removed the alternator until I get back to this project later. I'll need to fabricate more of a clearance relief in that member.
I can now reinstall the rear suspension and roll this car out of the way for awhile. I might get back to it in the summer.
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AJxtcman
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JAN 06, 05:52 PM
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I centered my engine in the car and mounted it the the body and then built the craddle.
I cut the bracket fro the dog bone up and just used the part for the alternator, but you can go one step more and use a 98+ Seville alternator that bolt directly to the block. You might need a differnt P/S pump. I am not sure. I am working on a conversion thread for using a 00+ engine in a 98 or 99 Seville.
This is a 98 to 99 Seville Alternator mount.
I wish I had seen what you have done now before I started mine. 
Very nice work 
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