The only thing I would add is to swap to a LS2 or LS3 timing cover. The LS4 cam sensor is in an odd ball location, so if you ditch the LS4 ecm, then swap the timing cover as well.

I wouldn't skimp on the camshaft. There are a lot better ones than stock GM ones, especially with higher lift. I have a 222/226 with 600 lift custom camshaft spec'd which has less overlap than my current one. It should raise torque across the power band and net me 400+ whp. Just haven't been able to bring myself to taking the car down long enough to pull the engine... the camshaft swap with the dod delete is about $1000... and the car is a blast the way it is.

You might want to consider some of the earlier exhaust manifolds as a lower cost option to the LS7. These are OEM stainless as well. I would cut them off before the bend, but that is just me.


There is also the LS6 version that is cast iron but will require some EGR port welding and machining:


Or you could run the exhaust in the factory Fiero path by using the LS4 front manifold and modifiying a truck one for the rear.


Most of my more recent developments for the LS4/F40 are in this thread...
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/094411.html

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 05-28-2018).]

quote Originally posted by fieroguru: The only thing I would add is to swap to a LS2 or LS3 timing cover. The LS4 cam sensor is in an odd ball location, so if you ditch the LS4 ecm, then swap the timing cover as well. You might want to consider some of the earlier exhaust manifolds as a lower cost option to the LS7. These are OEM stainless as well. I would cut them off before the bend, but that is just me. Most of my more recent developments for the LS4/F40 are in this thread... http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/094411.html

Thanks for the tip on the timing cover, about the cam, I'll take a look at something better once I see how much money I've spent getting there.

LS1 manifolds are an option, I have a set on my 98 C5 parts car, the trouble is it still moves under it's own power, disabling before I'm ready to take it apart will make it a major pain to move.

It's been a while since I looked in on that thread, I remember that joker fishing for info on the water pump...

At this point I think the flywheel I have can be made to work, need to call McCleod to find out if the clutch they supplied to CHRF is up to the task, if memory serves the disc is 9 11/16", need to take a look.

Joe

[This message has been edited by motoracer838 (edited 05-28-2018).]

The clutch is 9 11/16".

IMG_20180528_135119507_HDR by Joseph Martin, on Flickr
Flywheel side.
IMG_20180528_135127906_HDR by Joseph Martin, on Flickr
Pressure plate side
IMG_20180528_140504800_HDR by Joseph Martin, on Flickr
Flywheel. The bolts show the pattern for the pressure plate, there is a second bolt pattern that looks a lot like it might fit the Ranger pressure plate.
IMG_20180528_140749145_HDR by Joseph Martin, on Flickr
Short side center to center, looks to be 3"
IMG_20180528_140852696_HDR by Joseph Martin, on Flickr
long side (hard to get a good pic) is about 7 11/16" The diameter of the pattern is approx 10 7/8". Funny thing, the second pattern isn't 8x1.25 like the first but is 5/16-18 instead... looks like I have room to upgrade if needed.

I have no idea what this clutch will drive like...

Joe

[This message has been edited by motoracer838 (edited 05-28-2018).]

My day job has been far to busy for me to take time off and long haul the 2018 Hot Rod Power Tour... so I decided to earmark the funds for that trip on getting the LS4/F40 Fiero painted...

Last year I picked up an entire set of 88 Coupe panels so I can sand and modify the parts while still enjoying my Fiero. I also picked up a mustang convertible whale-tail wing, IMSA side scoops from Sage, TA fender vents from someone on the forum and a mustang STM front hood vent from The Driver. I was able to get the hood decklid sanded, and installed the TA fender vents into the fenders, but that is as far as I got before storing everything in the basement for the winter.

I pulled out the spare hood and STM hood vent and started cutting and fitting. Here is the test fit and final location. The sides of the hood vents start at the center of the headlight covers and flow backwards from there. The vent insert was cut to follow the body lines of the hood, but I cut the side to make them square and 26 1/4" wide to match the leading edge width (this helps with bonding strips). In this picture I have already cut the vents open to make them parallel to the face of the hood and open a little further back.



Here are all the cuts on the hood and the bonding strips (from the hood scraps of SMC). If you notice, nearly all the bonding strips will be hidden by the fiero hood structure. Hindsight 20/20, I could have made the opening in the front a little smaller (I add some pieces back in later).


Bonding strips glued in place with SMC Vette Panel Adhesive. Note, had I not trimmed down the sides of the insert to be 26 1/4" wide from front to back, then there would not have been a lip left at the rear for the bonding strip.


I glued the vent insert onto the bonding strips with SMC Vette Panel Adhesive and let dry. Then I came back with a flapper disk, beveled the seam, applied the first application of fiberglass with SMC resin, and 3 layers of mat with the first piece being about 1/2" wide and progressively wider.


Sanded the first application with 40 grit on the DA and then applied the top layer that is about 2" wide:


I also did some work to the bottom side. I added in a couple more sections of the original structure I cut out to help close off as many gaps and help reinforce the hood vent to the hood structure. Still more work to be done here, but it is starting to take shape.


While waiting for panel adhesive or resin to dry, I jumped back and forth between the STM hood vent and mustang rear wing. The biggest issue with the rear wing was the different contour between the decklid on the mustang and Fiero - there was nearly a 1/4" gap in some areas. The Fiero one is much flatter. I used the DA to remove material from the mounting bases of the wing which got things a lot closer. Then I finished off the modification by using 2 layers of mat as the base and 2 additional layers in areas that needed more build up. Lots or resin, put some wax paper over the decklid, and quickly bolted the wing down tight to squish everything together and make a new base to the wing. I did each side separately to stay ahead of the resin cure time...



I let it cure for about an hour before doing the other side. Then let it it cure the rest of the afternoon and over night. Block of wood with some 60 grit paper and I sanded back all the excess around the base. Overall the fit is now quite good.




Then I used assorted methods to flatten out the side of the wing, the top lip of the wing and a couple of high spots on the top surface of the wing.


Have I mentioned one of my least favorite activities is sanding...

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 06-16-2018).]