There's a lot going on in this pic. The interface of the rear clip, with the stock aft roofline of the notchback Fiero. And the Pantera gills are removed, and scoops are installed. The sailpanel was made by FieroSails, after a meeting at Ed's Swapmeet this spring. Very nice work. With a tiltback, the scoop has to be shortened a bit, as seen here, and the sailpanel has an "ear" to fill the void.

Not the greatest image, but it shows the items mentioned above wtih the rear clip raised.

Here I'm trying to show you what kind of space you have to access the trunk. I wouldn't want to put a flat tire in the trunk from this angle, but it can be done. Other, more usual items are easily put in & out of the trunk. It is not as accessable as with a stock Fiero, but it deffinately is usable. Of course if it's a big issue, ditch the tilt clip and build the stock Pantera rear clip, with more normal trunk access.

The limit chain, which holds the rear clip. Clever idea, but I think a hydraulic strut, or an electric/hydraulic trunk opener would be great here.

This is how the Fiero rear clip is cut and used. We cut it a bit oversized, and will fine tune it so it matches the drip rail line.

The trunk skin is removed, for eventual bonding to the rear clip. If you like, I think the skin can stay on, but there is a weight savings by removing it. The trunk section is cut from the power hump section, and the trunk section is bonded to the rear clip. Neat.

Can you tell I am sooooooooooooooo ready for this kit and adding a turbo to the car?

Just send over more pictures to my email address and we can go from there!

Looked over the molds he had, chop gun he's using, and the parts he's producing in his shop.. I HAVE to tell you guys.. the finish product that this man is producing is SECOND to NONE!! The detail in the molds is incredible. The prep work in producing a class one finish on those molds is amazing.

The finished pieces that he pulls out of the molds are so high quality.. they look like they require almost NO prep work for finish. It is truly amazing to see such high quality fiberglass pieces being produced first hand.

My Pantero project car was on the trailer this weekend and towed to Gene's place for the 4.9 install, just as soon as he's done, on with the body. Hopefully it will be ready for some of the shows this summer.

I saw them as easily reproduced factory style flares that could be sanded down along the edges and faired into the body by the builder to give a nicer look. I personally like their size, they are quite an enhancement over the standard flares on the original body. I will most likely use these type flares on my own Pantera build.

But along the way, I decided to take a break from things and try making up a set of flares, inspired by the GT5 or GTS style. How they will turn out will no doubt be a custom size and shape, but you understand where the inspiration comes from.

Here, a fence is constructed to hold the 2 part foam which is to be poured into the wheel flare area.

And here is the foam a day later. This type of foam does not react with the poly resin, and it shapes easily. If you tried making foam cores for your fiberglass projects and found that the foam did wierd stuff like melting when you applied resin, you had the wrong foam. After mixing and pouring small batches of foam, wait a day and then have at it. Tools of choice here are a hack saw, a very coarse broad rasp, a surform, a sanding block, 30 grit and 80 grit paper. Somewhere in there is a shape, we just have to let it out:>

And here is a shape begining to emerge after removing most of the foam that was poured.

The trick in this exercise is to see if I can make both sides look alike. Maybe not. Anyhow, after rough shaping, the foam will be coated with bondo and the surface brought down to a very smooth finish. In these photos, we are nowhere near that step.

The first flare was poured and rough shaped, as seen above. The opposite side flare was poured and allowed to set overnight. I needed to do two things next: establish a constant reference for shaping both flares,....and establish the wheel well opening in a straight & level condition. The cardboard fence was made to bow inwards a bit to assure there would be foam to work with. But now the excess has to be removed and the wheel well established.

Both items were accomplished by indexing the inside edges of both wheel wells, and laying a straight edge along the index marks. This quickly identifys where there is too much foam, so you just sand it away, and it leaves you with two new wheel wells that are straight & level. These become the reference for all shaping from here out.

I now made a sieres of marks 2" out from the stock wheel well, and trimmed the outside edges of the new wheelwells. Now we are ready to begin shaping the outside.

Since the wheel well has been reshaped, I did some fine tuning sanding of the first flare, getting it as close to what I wanted as the foam allows. Now I indexed the outside of the fender to establish reference points for shaping the second flare. These x/y axis marks allow me to locate points where the flare meets the fender, and to transfer those points to the other side. Note the dip in the upper front edge of the flare. This could be filled with foam, but I'll catch it with the bondo stage, later.

So, the other side was indexed and rough shaped. The fine tuning requires lots of rechecking the index measurements and just plain old looking at one side, then the other. Anyhow, we took it outside and gave it one more close look and fine tuning.

Now we are ready to apply a thin skin of bondo. This will fill the pores of the foam and allow even finer smooth sanding, and will help highlight any high or low spots, not visible on the foam.

David Breeze