Fiero 2m8 LT1 NX Roadster conversion (Page 13/46)
MotorTV JUL 12, 08:00 PM

quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:
Hi Chuck,

Thanks for confirming what I researched and jogged my memory on this morning.
I searched and found out that the top TB port is an air passage and have since connected a line to the valve cover.
When I was taking a couple pics tonight, I found the port under the TB and it jogged my memory that it went to the PCV.

I'm a little confused on the water pump port, maybe you can elaborate.
My theory is this:
When I bought the LT1, there was no port in that location on the water pump that came on my motor.
I have since replaced the Optispark and waterpump and the replacement pump did have that port that I never used last year.
This time around I also omitted the "Tee" in Winston's diagram as I am not using the TB coolant lines or the water jacket steam tubes.

It sounds like you are using it on your setup - where does it go?

Thanks,
Ryan



The "line to no where" is for an air cushion ,like an expansion tank...
If you have a steel head engine you may get away with not having it at all...
Chuck
Fiero2m8 JUL 13, 01:12 AM
Thanks Chuck - I think that explains it.
I pulled the old pump out of the box that came with my iron head LT1 and as mentioned nothing at that port location on the housing - not even a plug.
However when I ordered the replacement pump I got one for an F-body that did have the aluminum heads...

Ryan
Fiero2m8 JUL 13, 04:34 PM
Picked up some goodies today I ordered a while ago:




I had burnt a wire and a leaking boot on the previous stock set.





Last year, I pulled into a Tim Hortons with my truck carpet smoking and on fire.
It rekindled some Fiero stereotypes for sure.
Hopefully this wrap will help the naturally warm Fiero engine bay.
I also built a smaller lower trunk using the old one as a heat shield, so hopefully it won't burn the custom carpet this time around
Fiero2m8 JUL 13, 05:44 PM
I have solved one of the custom things I had been concerned about for a while - marrying the Fiero shifter cable to the Cadillac 4T60.

I had heard conflicting statements on the subject.
One was that you will lose a first gear position since the new trans has an additional gear (overdrive).
I had also read that with a little mod you can reach 1st gear just below the "1" in the console providing the cable is set up just perfectly.
I had noticed when installing the new Camaro shifter, than you can move the cable (with it unhooked) one notch below "1" on the console without trouble.
I wanted to be able to shift through the gears myself on occasion, so I took the extra time trying to achieve this.

Here is what seems to have worked for me:

The first thing I needed to find was a mounting location on the newly rebuilt trans.
I found these two 10mm bolts and carefully removed them keeping an eye on the gasket/silicone adhesive and nothing moved.
They were not overly tight and remove easily without problems:




After a test fit, I realized that the holes on the Fiero bracket that seems like it would fit when held up to the bolts, did not align perfectly, so I used a 4" angle grinder to open up the rear hole to a slot:




Next I realized the actuator lever on the trans was much less offset than the stock Fiero TH125c.
I have seen guys sites where they cut and rewelded the lever flater - I just pryed the one off the cable and swapped it with the flatter one:




Here is an overhead shot.
In order to get the best alignment possible, I used a nut as a spacer on the rear mount to get a better angle to the Fiero trans switch that was swapped on to the trans earlier.
You will notice that the cable length is set up as long as possible in the bracket and the whole bracket was bent upward slightly, all in an effort to make it long enough to reach 1st gear / 7th position.
When the cable is shortest it is in Park vs. longest in 1st - P-R-N-D-3-2-1




It did work but I was watching the cable moved as I shifted and they was a tendacy for the cable to bend while trying to reach first due to the cable already being set up to its longest position and partly due to the fact that the alignment still wasn't perfect.
Unfortunately, I couldn't shim the bracket out any further to correct the angle as it would be too short and interfere with the trans bracket to mount.
The solution was to drill the bracket and install a bolt and nut through it to provide the cable housing with a little extra support while reaching 1st gear in its longest position.




This fix allowed all gears to be engaged smoothly without regard to how lightly or slowly you moved the gear selector:



------------------

1986 Fiero2m8 (LT1 NX / 4T60 Roadster Build)
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/071642.html

Fiero2m8 JUL 15, 03:16 AM
A few shots of the CAI installed:[








Next I installed the header wrap and spark plug wires (WIP pictures):






The last thing I got to tonight was re-installing the passenger side exhaust:








I will be working on wiring over the weekend.

Fiero2m8

Fiero2m8 JUL 20, 09:47 AM
The second computer to control the LT1 is going to be located in the trunk here:




I made a sheet metal cover and painted it black to match the black / grey carpet that will be installed in the trunk:




I ended up relocating this distribution block to the shock tower as the wires to the 4T60 were a touch short - they were just barely long enough with the old transmission so moving it here solved the problem without having to cut any wires:




When reversing the intake - all the throttle body harness lines were easily long enough as it is closer to the computer now.
The only one that would need to be extended was the EGR, but I'm not using it in my setup so it will be unused and safely tucked away:



Basically, the other than the nitrous wiring, all that is left is running a pair to the fuse box for ignition power and the brake switch.



Fiero2m8

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 07-20-2006).]

Jake_Dragon JUL 20, 05:30 PM

quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

The last thing I got to tonight was re-installing the passenger side exhaust:








I will be working on wiring over the weekend.

Fiero2m8



What size pipe is that? I like the tips, think I need some.
Thanks for posting your pictures I wish my coupe looked as good, the poor thing is sitting on my car port waiting for attention its not going to get for some time yet.

Fiero2m8 JUL 21, 04:06 PM
Thanks for posting - sizes are:

Headers 1-5/8" tubes
Exhaust pipe 2"
Cats 11" x 6" x 3-1/2"
Muffler tips 12" x 4-1/2"

Other updates:

I picked up a new remote oil filter relocation kit today and got the nitrous bottle filled.
It's my birthday tomorrow and I have next week off, so there should be good progress on the project.

Fiero2m8

P.S. the engine cranks nicely...
Fiero2m8 AUG 02, 04:27 PM
I'm back from vacation in Wasaga Beach and finally got a little more progress on my amateur home build:

Remote oil filter kit installed with filter mounted to cradle:





Replacement decklid installed using two prop rods in favour of the old torsion springs:







You will also notice the rubber moulding from the Camaro hatch cut and installed on my firewall:



Next the brakes were re-installed with new hard lines and existing 1 year old calipers, rotors and pads:
(I forsee a brake upgrade in the car's future...)





Last thing I got to last night was reconnecting the emergency cables and they work - not essential for an auto, but a nice to have:



Haven't finished routing the crossover brake line as I am considering a "H" body rear swaybar upgrade as documented here:

http://dtcc.cz28.com/87fiero/swaybar.htm

Any excuse to go back to the wreckers
Anyone done this mod lately?
If so what year / model car did you use and did you like the result?

I'm also looking for an optional install location for the Archie strut bar - the normal location resulted in a snapped stud in the head.
Pictures of other solutions are also welcome.

Fiero2m8
Jake_Dragon AUG 02, 05:55 PM

quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:
Haven't finished routing the crossover brake line as I am considering a "H" body rear swaybar upgrade as documented here:

http://dtcc.cz28.com/87fiero/swaybar.htm

Any excuse to go back to the wreckers
Anyone done this mod lately?
If so what year / model car did you use and did you like the result?

I'm also looking for an optional install location for the Archie strut bar - the normal location resulted in a snapped stud in the head.
Pictures of other solutions are also welcome.

Fiero2m8



Make sure the bolts you use for the end links dont stick past the bottom edge of your rim, you get a flat tire and its going to dig into the ground.
It looks like the one in the link has some pretty long bolts on his install.

What kind of motor and tranny mounts do you have? I used solid mounts and my motor dosent move at all.
I have been thinking of using something tied into the adapter plate and install something on it and mount it to the cradle.