NS F355 Project (Page 12/73)
Yarmouth Fiero JAN 21, 10:00 PM
Thanks Blooze. This Rhino 5 has lots of cool new features and it allows the non artistic type like me to produce something that I could never do by hand. It also is a little easier to look at when you are trying to capture style. The glaring colors of a 3D model can be hard to look at sometimes. It will be cool to see it develop as I slowly draw out each piece and add it to the drawing.

I agree that the hoops may add a touch of uniqueness ( is this a word?) and if they are done right and installed correctly, they'll hopefully add some much need safety to the car. They certanly won't be bolt on. I've already discussed with my local powder coater about the possibility of getting the transverse beam with hoops welded in place into his oven. Then the rest of the structure can be welded to the beam and the whole assembly installed into the chassis.

Anybody with experience in this exercise?
Reallybig JAN 21, 10:40 PM
When I'm working on something custom and want to add an off the shelf part, I usually try to make the part fit without modifying it by designing my brackets to accept the part unaltered. That being said, I don't know what's available out there, what you want exactly, and wheather there is room to modify/add brackets. Just a thought from my end.
I love what you've done and am looking forward to seeing your progress!

Food for thought... http://www.google.ca/search...sAQ&biw=1440&bih=756
Fierology JAN 21, 11:23 PM
Just splendid!



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"A guy know's he's in love when he loses interest in his car for a few days." -Tim Allen

He who dies with the most toys... still dies.


My '84 Resto

Yarmouth Fiero JAN 22, 09:03 AM
Thanks Reallybig and Fierology. I am glad you like it so far. Still a long-g-g-g-g-g way to go though.

With regard to the hoops, I would like to buy some aftermarket chrome moly units that have long stocks that can pass through a stubstantial tranverse beam and welded top and bottom. This beam would then tie into the upper frame rails directly and also lower frame rails via 1 1/2" x 3" x 1/8" HSS. These would also tie into the transverse beam via gusset plates. Note, I left the upper frame rails off the first image to show the inside of the transverse beam. I am hoping that the structure wil be adequate as is so that I don't have to add rear braces to the hoops, as seen on many cars. I welcome comments from those who have installed rollover hoops.
Driver_WT JAN 22, 10:42 AM

quote
Originally posted by Yarmouth Fiero:

Hi Driver_WT...... I would love to see your car this summer. As you know, we're planning a SBC install as well. We'll certainly have to find a central location and get together for a bar-b-que and car admiration session.



That would be great.

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1984 Fiero, Black notchback, 355 SBC, 4 speed

Yarmouth Fiero JAN 22, 11:16 AM
Of course, it will be a couple years before I can show up driving anything that resembles a finished car.

Maybe Blooz will lend me one of his many ol' beaters he has laying around for the weekend...ha-ha-ha-ha
Bloozberry JAN 24, 04:24 PM
How's this?
Yarmouth Fiero JAN 24, 09:11 PM
Seriously..... one white pedal Blooz? Where is the little black one with the shiny rims that I saw down by the Koi pond ??????

Maybe I'll just bring my own. I told you I was partial to carbon.

Yarmouth Fiero JAN 25, 12:18 PM
Still working on the roll over hoops and associated supporting structure. The top of the firewall is bent in such a way as to form a supporting surface for the rear window. As well, there is an additional piece of bent sheet metal installed to give added support to the rear window structure. By adding my proposed transverse frame to support the roll over hoops, the additional frame will protrude down slightly into the engine bay. I've shown the stock engine deck hinge support boxes for reference.



Since I am building a Spider, the rear glass will soon be gone so I am considering trimming the flange off the top of the firewall and also removing the additional sheet metal support that is there. This will allow me to raise the proposed transverse frame by about 1.44" and allow the frame to tuck up under the firewall sheet metal nicely. Again, I've added the stock hinge boxes to help show the position of everything. With the hinge boxes removed, the lower edge of the new transverse frame will be about 3.814" higher than the stock hinge boxes. As they seem to be quite intrusive to the engine compartment, I think this modification will be a noticeable improvement. As well, the new transverse frame will provide a secure location for the new 355 engine cover hinges.



Any thoughts on this design modification?

With regard to the roll over hoop design and construction, I am pleased with my current design as shown. I have been using this document to guide my design with regard to dimensions and material.



Edit to add a view showing the stock firewall structure before modifications so its easier to see what the heck I'm talking about.



I have a length of 1.9" dia. x 0.120" ERW tubing that I will have formed into my hoop design. Our tubing bender has a die for 2" tubing so I will do a test bend to see if it turns out ok.

[This message has been edited by Yarmouth Fiero (edited 01-25-2013).]

Bloozberry JAN 25, 02:50 PM
By removing the stock "Z" sheet metal that forms the bottom of the stock crossmember, your new metal tube would need at least a 3" height to match up properly with the LH & RH upper frame rails at either end. In fact I measure 80mm between the top of your new crossmember and the bottom of the upper side rails. ( I'm working on a similar design to act as the forward mounting structure for horizontal, fore and aft shocks, so I'm familiar with the area.) So that begs the question: How are you planning to tie your new crossmember into the upper frame rails?