88 Coupe 4.9 Swap Thread (Page 12/69)
josef644 OCT 08, 12:22 PM
I put a 5 spd drivers side CV axle in the transmission and hub on the right side of my car this morning. I left the axle nut loose with about 1/2" slack. I jacked up the hub a bit at a time and checked for 1/2" movement. After the cradle raised off of the jackstands I had a friend sit on the rear above the strus and bounce. I could not get the axle to bind. I tightened the axle nut and tried to dislodge the shaft from the tripod. Couldn't do it. I am wondering why folks are reccommending using a 90's GM minivan axle for this with the Fiero stick shift outer end installed.

Rockcrawl says for a 4T60E:
"and a left axle for a manual Fiero on the right side. Some people have reported having problems with the Fiero axle on the right side, but they have always worked well for me."

What type problems? I read here where a swapper had axel bind and ruined a transmission. I could not make it bind. This axel seems to work just fine in there. I don't mind buying a different axle if it is needed, but if it isn't why waste $90.00. The minivan axle was $43.00+ tax and $40.00 core charge at my local NAPA.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-08-2009).]

fieroguru OCT 08, 07:29 PM
There can be alot of variations in engine placement side to side, front to back and elevation along with engine/transmission mounts and their allowable movement and overall suspension ride height. These all come into play in varying degrees with axle selection and provide opportunities for people to have different results in what worked or didn't work for them.

Another factor that comes into play is that some axles issues only arise when the car is being driven and experiences full droop or full compression. Depending on driving style, you can drive for an extended period of time w/o having any issues and think your axles are just fine. Then one day botttom out hard going over some tracks or catch some air over a road bump and end up with something breaking.

I always check for axle binding on my swaps. With the engine/tranny/cradle in the chassis with the springs removed from the struts and the rear hubs very close to proper alignment, cycle the suspension from full droop to full compression while spinning the hub by hand. It should spin freely and not have any binding... if it binds, find out why and work to fix the issue before you break something.
josef644 OCT 08, 09:37 PM
I didn't remove the springs, but used instead my neighbors big butt sitting on the strut tower to compress the spring,(250 lbs), and a floor jack to raise it as high as I could get it. I still had close to 1/2" play in and out with the splined end of the CV shaft all the way up and down. No binding at any time. While checking it again this evening my inner boot let loose while I was turning the wheel by hand. The wheel end was all the way down. So, I gotta replace the inner boot next week.

Thanks for the reply
Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-08-2009).]

josef644 OCT 09, 04:28 PM
Got some wiring finished up today. I was able to figure out the wiring of the fuel pump relay. No big deal ya say? 2 wires from the ECM, 2 from the C203, 5 from the relay, 1 from the ALDL and 3 from the oil pressure switch. 13 They gotta be correct or no go with fuel. The fact that the wires switch colors sometimes didn't help. Tan and wt at times, gray others. Four of these all join hands in harmony, solder and heat shrink, the ALDL G, C203 L, OP sw, and relay feed 'B'.

What did help was identifying the wires pin positions on the relays, OP sw connector, ECM plug, ALDL connector and the C203. I did all splices inside the cabin if at all posible so the joint wasn't exposed to under the hood conditions. Connectors C203, C 502,C500 etc are not always identified in wiring diagrams.

I think I was sort of putting off finishing up my harness because I was not understanding how to join these up correctly. I spent an hour yesterday evening just looking and reading diagrams. I was comfortable with joining them togeather today. Glad this part is over. I'll do the AC relay Sunday morning. Ruckus day is tomorrow, so no working on the Coupe. Chat ya Sunday.
Later
Joe Crawford
Carrluvr OCT 09, 09:34 PM
Thanks Joe. I'm glad I could help. I just got my new water inlet in the mail and got the whole timing cover/waterpump/inlet assembly back in place. This weekend I will be test firing the car for the first time. I wish I would have known you needed a battery tray. I cut mine out because I relocated my battery to the front. It sits in a box of scrap metal right now. No rust at all.

[This message has been edited by Carrluvr (edited 10-09-2009).]

josef644 OCT 09, 09:37 PM
Got my CV inner boot and the CV band pliers today so I can swap out the boot I busted this morning checking for axle binding. I removed the strut spring and put it back togeather. OH, and no binding. Just a busted inner rubber boot. $30.00 more in the trash can. I am gonna keep the CV boot band pliars this time. I got a new set, they are only $16.00 at A-Zone. I also get to replace the strut spring too!!!!
I just love this.
Joe
josef644 OCT 09, 09:40 PM

quote
Originally posted by Carrluvr:

Thanks Joe. I'm glad I could help. I just got my new water inlet in the mail and got the whole timing cover/waterpump/inlet assembly back in place. This weekend I will be test firing the car for the first time. I wish I would have known you needed a battery tray. I cut mine out because I relocated my battery to the front. It sits in a box of scrap metal right now. No rust at all.




Do you still have the top part, battery tray? The piecs that the battery sits on? Not the battery support, thats the piece spot welded in the engine bay. I need the top piece. Sometimes it has been riveted to the support. They are $33.00 new at TFS.
Picture lifted from The Fiero Store:
Tray

Support

Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-09-2009).]

johnyrottin OCT 09, 11:23 PM
I really wish I knew you were doing this swap before I left the country. You could have taken my 4.9 and used it to mock up parts from and/or as a reference for needed parts and ideas. Ed Parks did the swap on mine so I feel good about the workmanship. I would recommend two things though while you have it out....new tranny gasket and oilpan gasket...they are going to be a bear to change out and mine have slight leaks...cork...go figure. I plan on getting and installing the type that you cannot overtighten.
Carrluvr OCT 10, 08:09 AM

quote
Originally posted by josef644:


Do you still have the top part, battery tray? The piecs that the battery sits on? Not the battery support, thats the piece spot welded in the engine bay. I need the top piece. Sometimes it has been riveted to the support. They are $33.00 new at TFS.
Picture lifted from The Fiero Store:
Tray

Support

Joe




Yeah I believe I do let me look to see what it looks like for you.
josef644 OCT 10, 08:22 AM
Johnny you are a Jent.
Thanks
Joe