Northstar rebuild: Will style (Page 110/119)
Will MAR 08, 09:10 AM
Because I was working on the Jeep, I didn't get anything done on The Mule last weekend, other than pull my '87 Fiero shop manual off the shelf in order to incorporate the Fiero body power distribution into my wire list for 2006 DTS wiring for 2006 Corvette ECM %)

Photos of the filter adapter:
Will MAR 22, 08:31 AM
My dad was able to check out a 55" belt that fit. 54.5" is too short to fit and 55.5" is just barely tight with the tensioner fully relaxed. He said the tensioner is about halfway through its travel, but the 55" will work. I won't be able to look at it until 4/02, but I might move the tensioner slightly to put it a little further in its travel in order to give myself a little more room for the belt to stretch over its service life.

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 03-23-2022).]

Will MAR 28, 09:13 AM
I've created about 60 of the probably 200 lines I'll need in my wire list to build the harness

I need to put together:
=>Power distribution, fusing and A/C Comp & Fuel pump relays from 1987 Fiero (Have paper manual)
=>Manifold harness production break from 1995 Cadillac (Have paper manual)
=>Most engine wiring from 2006 DTS (Electronic diagrams from Sinister)
=>ECM connector, oil level switch/temp sender, oil & A/C pressure transducers & MAF wiring from 2006 Corvette (Electronic diagrams from Sinister)
=>4 wire oil pressure sender/switch wiring from Olds Aurora (1999?)
=>DBW throttle wiring from 2006 STS (Electronic diagrams from Sinister)

The wiring won't be tucked... The harness will mount to the engine via P-clamps. It will be somewhat out of sight via careful routing, but will be well worked and well thought out at every point.
Once I get the wire list done, I need to put together the wire and connector order, then build the harness. Once the harness is built, I'll look at the numbers of wires in all the branches and forks and order enough of the right sizes of DR-25 to dress the harness. Once all that's done, I can add the bulkhead pass-through and ECM connectors.

I'm thinking pretty hard about a Deutsch bulkhead disconnect for the firewall, instead of trying to rework an OE pass-through.
I've heard of people having problems with the C203 connector. I can see that some might, but I haven't. 14 cavity male/female pairs are not very common, so I'm not sure what to replace it with. I might do a pair of 8 cavity Delphi GT connectors. The clutch switch wire has already taken up an empty cavity in the C203.
I know I'll need 6 wires for the DBW pedal and 4 for cruise control, so I could add a 10 cavity Delphi GT connector just for those functions.

Of course there's a long correspondence course I have to get done for the Navy this week, then an in-person course next week, then a murder board (which is kinda like water board, but not quite) for my warfare pin sometime in April.
Will MAR 30, 09:54 AM
On further thought... if I use one 8 cavity GT connector and one 10 cavity GT connector to replace the C203, that will give me 18 cavities to replace 14 cavities. I can use female terminals in those two connectors on the ECM harness. I can then add another 10 cavity GT connector for DBW & Cruise, but install the male terminal side on the ECM harness to differentiate it from the 10 cavity replacing the C203 connector.
La fiera MAR 31, 10:44 PM

quote
Originally posted by Will:
Of course there's a long correspondence course I have to get done for the Navy this week, then an in-person course next week, then a murder board (which is kinda like water board, but not quite) for my warfare pin sometime in April.



So, if I get my boys from NCIS to give you a hand I can see your car at Summit Point this Summer??
ericjon262 MAR 31, 11:19 PM

quote
Originally posted by Will:

On further thought... if I use one 8 cavity GT connector and one 10 cavity GT connector to replace the C203, that will give me 18 cavities to replace 14 cavities. I can use female terminals in those two connectors on the ECM harness. I can then add another 10 cavity GT connector for DBW & Cruise, but install the male terminal side on the ECM harness to differentiate it from the 10 cavity replacing the C203 connector.



16 cavity GT 150/280 mixed connectors exist too, these are common on ~04-06 LX9 V6's, and have twelve 150 series terminals, and four 280 terminals, they're also very easy to repin.

I'm providing a link to EFI connection because I know they have them without hunting, Ballenger motorsports is typically a better value though.

https://www.eficonnection.c...ale-sealed-connector

------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

cognita semper

Will APR 01, 12:09 PM

quote
Originally posted by La fiera:

So, if I get my boys from NCIS to give you a hand I can see your car at Summit Point this Summer??



Maybe they've already been there? Google "Amphibious Construction Battalion 2 relieved"



quote
Originally posted by ericjon262:

16 cavity GT 150/280 mixed connectors exist too, these are common on ~04-06 LX9 V6's, and have twelve 150 series terminals, and four 280 terminals, they're also very easy to repin.

I'm providing a link to EFI connection because I know they have them without hunting, Ballenger motorsports is typically a better value though.

https://www.eficonnection.c...ale-sealed-connector




Looking under 16 way connectors, I don't see that on the Ballenger website, so they may not have a better value... Lol.
Even a little higher price is hardly a killer... I'm not buying 500 of them.

EDIT: I may need to look into using this power distribution center: https://www.eficonnection.c...hi-electrical-center

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 04-01-2022).]

ericjon262 APR 01, 01:43 PM

quote
Originally posted by Will:


Looking under 16 way connectors, I don't see that on the Ballenger website, so they may not have a better value... Lol.
Even a little higher price is hardly a killer... I'm not buying 500 of them.

EDIT: I may need to look into using this power distribution center: https://www.eficonnection.c...hi-electrical-center




Last time I bought from EFI connection, they didn't have connector kits, with the body, terminals, seals, and locks, Ballenger did, and for a much better price than EFI connection for the same parts. that said, when I was shopping for connectors, I needed a bunch of stuff, so the differences in price added up.

I may pick up one of those distribution centers too, that's pretty nice, and could clean up my harness alot.

------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

cognita semper

Trinten APR 01, 02:06 PM
EFI Connection started a second site where you can buy 'kits' (so not just pigtails) for pretty much everything.

https://lswiring.com

I found out about them by reaching out to them and asking if they sold packages (I wanted a full set of connectors for the LS4 and then some), and they were quick to reply with that site, and pointed out you can search by engine platform to get a list of all the connector types relevant to it. Which is pretty cool.
Will APR 08, 09:21 PM
Last weekend I got a couple of small things done, as well as a bunch of lines on the wire list.

Added a T to the oil pressure elbow in order to make a fitting tree. The oil pressure transducer should stick out over top of the cradle crossmember, while the switch/sender should hide behind it. I'll have to turn the wiring tight so that it doesn't hang down below the bottom of the pan.



I clocked the alternator rear case in order to bring the stud close to the block and bring the rear mounting boss close to the existing hole in the bracket. The bracket doesn't fit because it was designed for a CS144 alternator and this is a CS130.



A longer shot down the side of the block. Yes, I'll have to do a lot more modification to the bracket in order to use the stud. I just drilled the hole quick and dirty in order to get everything into relative position.



Accessory drive with belt. I hope it clears the battery tray.



Closeup of the bracket... All I really did was move the tensioner and the idler... and the top alternator mount a little bit



And the junction block + mount bracket, before I drilled the mounting holes