88 Coupe 4.9 Swap Thread (Page 11/69)
josef644 OCT 02, 09:04 AM
My new round catalitic converter came with UPS yesterday:


It has 2.5 " in and outlets. Metallic core. To go with this custom made muffler:

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-02-2009).]

josef644 OCT 02, 02:26 PM
Wired in the ALDL this morning. I have 'M' position and 'E' position connected togeather so I can see if my Dodgerunner cable will run my TunnerPro software with my laptop. Ran the grounds from The ECM to the engine bay for a grounding eye.

There are two battery +12 Volt hot all the time ECM wires ( C16 & B1) that need to be connected. Where is the best place to connect these? Maybe the cigarette lighter wire? Hot all the time? Maybe not when the switch is in the start position. Might have to run a dedicated fused wire to the battery junction block beside the C500.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-02-2009).]

Carrluvr OCT 02, 10:13 PM

quote
Originally posted by josef644:

Wired in the ALDL this morning. I have 'M' position and 'E' position connected togeather so I can see if my Dodgerunner cable will run my TunnerPro software with my laptop. Ran the grounds from The ECM to the engine bay for a grounding eye.

There are two battery +12 Volt hot all the time ECM wires ( C16 & B1) that need to be connected. Where is the best place to connect these? Maybe the cigarette lighter wire? Hot all the time? Maybe not when the switch is in the start position. Might have to run a dedicated fused wire to the battery junction block beside the C500.




Joe on the my GT there was an orange cable with a fusible link that connected to the Post below the c500 that originally fed the V6 ECU. I used this to connect to both 12+ connectors to the caddy's. I am doing an auto tranny. i am running into issues with the cable bracket and linkage. I bought the setup from Rockcrawl but it wont clear the exhaust xover and the plastic cable wont stay connected to the post.
josef644 OCT 02, 10:33 PM
I wonder if I need to add a fuseable link set up or if a fuse protected dedicated wire?


I connected a +12 volt battery lead to the PW switch ,(pink wire), and lowered the driver side window. It was sort of slow the last few inches. I ran it back up, and lowered it a few times. It was a little bit faster after the second cycle. I Had no movenent from the passenger side at all. I printed a troubleshooting guide from the 88 FSM to try to figure out what the problem is. I jammed a flat screw driver in the connector for teh pink wire and connected a setr of jumper cables to the frame and the screw driver. I wanted to be able to give it plenty of current to see how quick the windows moved up and down, and the headlight motors speed.

I was also able to check out the headlight motors. Both worked good, and were much faster than the ones in my old 86 coupe.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-28-2010).]

josef644 OCT 04, 09:01 PM

quote
Originally posted by Carrluvr:


Joe on the my GT there was an orange cable with a fusible link that connected to the Post below the c500 that originally fed the V6 ECU. I used this to connect to both 12+ connectors to the caddy's. I am doing an auto tranny. i am running into issues with the cable bracket and linkage. I bought the setup from Rockcrawl but it wont clear the exhaust xover and the plastic cable wont stay connected to the post.



That was it. I found the fuseable link and the weather pack connector still connected to the 2.5 ECM connector. It shares a common connector eye with the Alt and its fuseable link. Orange wire as you said, and it splits into two leads. I just need to route it into the cabin for the ECM +12 Bat feeds. Ya just got a + from me.

Big Help
Thanks
Joe

Spent the last hour finding all of the fuseable links that go to the junction block by the battery. I will now be able to power up the whole car at the same time now, or power up some and disconnect the others as I wish. Gonna be able to get some real work done now.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-04-2009).]

josef644 OCT 05, 08:21 PM
Got my new battery support in the mail today. $30.00 more in the trash can

No progress today, had to work
CenTexIndy OCT 05, 08:45 PM
It will be well worth it! Work has to take precedent though over the car

Looking good. Can't wait to see the final job.
josef644 OCT 06, 03:14 PM

quote
Originally posted by CenTexIndy:

It will be well worth it! Work has to take precedent though over the car

Looking good. Can't wait to see the final job.



That might be a while. I am planning on removing all body panels for painting. I will not remove any of the body untill I have the engine and transmissionn running like I want it.

CenTex in this picture you posted it appears that you have connected fuel lines with brass connectors. DId you cut off the ends and use ferrels, or are those GM flare adaptors? If they are adapters where did you score them? Or did you do something else I cant see from these photos? This looks like a good cheap simple solution for fuel line connections.

Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-06-2009).]

josef644 OCT 06, 04:51 PM
I was looking for ways to make the AC work in my swap. I wanted to have a good working AC in this Coupe after the swap was finished. I went to:
http://www.acsource.com/ and found they sell GM compressor horizontal exit compressor hose blocks:

and a high pressure retro fit kit:


Problem:
My car was a 2.5 so it had the high and low pressure swirches in the rear of the compressor. Problem number two is that the Caddilac hose set will not work in the Fiero engine bay. When we try to use the Fiero hose set on the rear of the Cadillac compressor it gets VERY close to the front side exhaust mainifold. Picture borrowed from Dizzixx's thread. You can see that his manifolds aren't even on the engine. The muffler is close to the manifold area:


Not good. The muffler on the Fiero hose set is in the wrong place also. The Cadillac compressor has no provisions for HI/Low switches on or in the compressor. So I need external Hi/Low controls.

Fix
I can run the wire that goes to the rear of the car to the spare tire area and connect to the high/low switches in there. The accumulator has a port for the normally open low pressure /compressor control valve. The V6 cars do this already. The 2.5 accumulators have a place for this on them that is unused now. First connection. Wire in series. Second connection would be threw this always closed high pressure switch attached to the 134A high port fitting. Then return this wire line to the place it was cut from originally. Then to the rear so does what it was supposed to do, activate the compressor control relay position 'A'. This is the way it is wired in the 2.5's now with the V5 compressors. All 86-88's 2.5's. Just the switches in front now instead of the engine compartment.
I will need to attach the hose block to the compressor. Also the metal part of the Fiero AC hose , the part that connects to the body lines. Then just get a measurement between the two. Send them my old hose metal end part. They will make my hose to fit between the lines and the compressor, and send it back to me free shipping.

Any thoughts?

Just went to RockAuto and looked up the Cadillac compressor. It is a HR6. I know some 88 V6's used the HR6

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-06-2009).]

josef644 OCT 07, 06:19 PM
Today I flattened out the Ex speaker boxes from above and took them to a friend of mine that has a sheetmetal shear. He cut the metal for me so it is nice and straight. I am gonna cover the two speaker holes with this metal. He also cut me some 1" strips so I can make some 'stand off'' s for mounting up things.

The replacement piece just sitting over the hole not attached yet. This is good thick 55 Chevy fender thick stuff.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-07-2009).]