Another Katatak Fiero Adventure! (Page 10/72)
katatak NOV 18, 06:58 PM
Hey Greg,

Thanks for stopping by. My plan is to basically cover all the console pieces with glass to make them smooth and uniform. After a bunch of prep and putty, I'll give them some kind of paint, coating, etc. I have not got that far yet but I would like to do that Lunitec stuff for the entire console in dark grey or black. No sketches - just a "look" in my head that I want. Which is a stock look but smooth/seemless.

I attempted my first bit of glass today. I got so wound up in it that I did not bother to take any pics. That glass work is a lot harder than I was thinking it would be. It's a good thing I can grind it back off if I have to.....I spent about 4 hours last night watching "how to" videos on You Tube. I though it was going to be easy. I had more resin and hairy fiber glass all over the place than I had on the part.

After I cut the inner part of the glove box out, I cut a piece of thin plywood to fit in the hole. Once I had it in place, I had a little "dish" in the face of the console. I decided that I would "build" up the dish and level it out with some glass plus I want this area to be fairly ridgid for the Sub mount if I ever do decide to mount a sub there. I went to Home Depot and bought some general purpose resin and a package of cloth and a package of mat. I cut 3 pieces of the cloth and 2 pieces of the mat to fit the face of the console. It took a lot more resin that I thought it would to "wet" in all those layers and when I was done, I only made up about half the thickness I needed. After it cures and drys, I will sand her real good and maybe add a few more layers. I do not want it to weigh a ton but it is what it is.

There is also a depression on each side in the back at the bottom. I was scratching my head trying to figure out a way to fill these spots so that I woud have a smooth flat side to glass over. Not sure if this will work but I had a can of "great stuff" so I filled each sopt with foam. I will let it set then file it down to where I want it. I did not want to try and build it up with filler. We will see how it works. I only took one pic today:


More later.

Pat

[This message has been edited by katatak (edited 11-18-2009).]

katatak NOV 18, 07:26 PM
Just went out to the shop to check on the drying of the glass. It's dry!!!!!! Wow, I thought it would take overnight to dry. I brought it in the house cause it's supposed to get down to 30 tonight. I was not sure I wanted to continue down the fiberglass path. I do not think I have the patience to do a good job but now that I have started it, i will have to finish it. After it has dired and I can see the "progress", I have decided that it is not that bad after all. Looking forward to laying on some more glass tomorrow. Still not sure if the foam is going to work. I'll have a better idea tomorrow.
Rick 88 NOV 18, 08:27 PM
Great job on the headliner! Have fun on the cruise. I would have liked to go but we had reservations at a B&B in Santa Fe this weekend. I think you will be much warmer than we will.
Sofa King NOV 19, 07:57 AM

quote
I attempted my first bit of glass today. I got so wound up in it that I did not bother to take any pics. That glass work is a lot harder than I was thinking it would be. It's a good thing I can grind it back off if I have to.....



Fantastic! Congratulations on your first steps. These first few steps are the hardest and will get easier as you go along. Just remember to spread the resin on the surface before you lay the fiberlgass - gives the glass something to grab onto and then use the brushes to help move the glass around. Taking pics during the process is next to impossible because you only have so much time before the resin dries - unless you have a helper?


quote
I though it was going to be easy. I had more resin and hairy fiber glass all over the place than I had on the part.



LOL! I can't help but laugh, because I think your first attempt was a better success than mine. I found resin on the walls 10 ft away. I found fiberglass cloth under the cars. Don't ask me how. And yes, the glass gets ALL over the place. As I mentioned, it gets easier.

When sanding use 40-80 grit on the high surfaces of the fiberglass and then switch to a higher grit paper as to not remove too much of the stock console. The fiberglass just sands away - OH use a mask.

Question: Are you going to leave the "vents" intact or cover those holes as well? I think the foam will work but you might have to glass over it or at the very least spread some resin into the foam areas to help seal it and then you can sand the area down. The glass cures in a matter of hours - even sooner if it's in direct sunlight. That's another reason why I've been having so much fun. The process just keeps moving forward with those quick drying times.

Again, congratulations on those first steps. I'm really excited for you and I'm looking forward to seeing your ideas become a reality. Take it slow, keep up the great work and lot's of pics.

G (SK)

[This message has been edited by Sofa King (edited 11-19-2009).]

Rick 88 NOV 19, 01:45 PM
Hey Pat, In you stockpile of Fiero parts do you have a beechwood console door in good shape?
katatak NOV 19, 07:07 PM

quote
Originally posted by Rick 88:

Hey Pat, In you stockpile of Fiero parts do you have a beechwood console door in good shape?



No Rick, I don't. Every one I have is grey and in the typical warped condition.

Pat
katatak NOV 19, 07:22 PM
Well I changed direction a little today. after reading more threads - and watching aome more you tube videos, I dediced that the foam "filler" was not the direction I want ed to go. So I tore all the foam out and will be making some "panels" out of glass to cover/buld up voids and low spots on the console. I have a new direction/idea that I think will look much better when finished.

Greg,

Yes I am going to cover the vent areas. Once installed , they can't really be seen and I do not need the "vent" for the ECM heat. If later I decide to build this into a sub box, I will want them plugged anyway. I wish I was good at photo shop and drawing. I have a few ideas that I would like to see in a pic before I dive in. I kind of like some of the Pisa dash's with the AC vent, radio and A/C control angled toward the driver. I also like the one with the "divider" on the passenger side. I will most likely stay with the clean seemless "stock" look as I want the interior to maintain the stock look with some modern features. This car will not have AC or Heat so I am thinking about moving the stereo up to the A/C vent - below that a sort of storage box thingie? I will put the Aux gauge pod on top with aftermarket gauges. I still have not decided how to make the shifter cover.

Pat
Sofa King NOV 20, 08:01 AM
Hey P,

Just read your post. I've looked at the PISA dash and I'm pretty sure I know which one you're referring to. That design was based on the C4 Corvette interior - particularly the 1991 Corvette Dash (always go to Google and type in "1991 Corvette Interior")

http://www.corvettefever.co...te_zr1/photo_06.html

Another option is to look at the Corvette Interiors of the same year(s) as the Fiero. The interiors were so similar, not just in design, that they used similar parts from the standard GM parts bin - always trying to save a buck.

http://www.motorera.com/cor...1987/87interior1.jpg

I have a good idea of where you're headed and I can try sketching out some designs for you. Just shoot me a PM listing "all" the things you would want to include any design elements (tilted dash, cup holders, cubbie, etc...) Keeping the dash looking stock is the biggest challenge. For example, I have an idea for the Fiero door panels - similar to the center console in appearance. What I do is start looking at Pontiac cars from that time frame - Grand Am, Grand Prix, Firebird, etc... I then venture out to other brands; Chevy, Buick, Olds, etc. and then ultimately to foreign cars. Most times I'll find several design elements from several sources and then work those elements into a single working design that, in the end, looks stock but updates the basic Pontiac design and adds more function. For example: reflectors in the door, power mirror switch in the door instead on the center console, a cubby in the door instead of a vinyl pocket.

I'm kinda rambling I know... Again, I think I know where you're headed and keeping it stock looking is going to be the toughest part. I'll be more than happy to help if you would like.

G
katatak NOV 20, 07:22 PM
More glass work today. I learned a lot today. I am pretty sure that I have been using too much hardner. The resin turns to jelly in under 10 minutes. I think I punched to big a hole in the hardner tube and the drops are probably twice as big as they are supposed to be. Nobody warned me that after sanding fiberglass, I would itch like a madman. It was only afterward that I learned that I should be wearing a long sleve shirt. Someone also suggested that I cover my exposed skin with baby powder or talc powder so that the little glass fibers will not get in my pores. When using general purpose resin, it has a wax in it. As it cures, the wax makes a film on the exposed surface. Before you go to put on more glass and resin, you have to sand the wax film off. I suppose you could wipe it off with some kind of solvent, thinner, etc.?

First thing I did was to make some "fill" panels. I used the old rear glass out of my 47 Chevy Truck, cleaned the glass real good then waxed the glass - I had measured all the little pieces I needed and came up with the size of panel to make. I wanted to see If I could minimize the waste. I used all but about a 1/2" wide by 10" long strip and I am sure I will find a use for the left over piece. Onse it was cured, the Wax paper peeled off very easy and then the panel released from the glass easy. I learned that instead of using masking tape to use packing tape of duct tape. The resin penetrates the masking tape and makes a mess of the glass when you take the panel off. Nothing a little goof off wont fix.

The Glass:

Waxed and masked:

Three layers of mat, rolled out with wax paper on top:

Through the magic of film, a couple hours later:


I will trim this up into various pieces I need for the ned phase.

Pat
katatak NOV 20, 07:50 PM
Once I trimmed up the panel, I went to work on the AC surround. I wanted to build a "lip" around the outer edge so that the trim bezel will fit flush when it's all finished. At first, I was going to build the panel with some dowel rod down one edge. As I was trying to get the mat and resin to conform to the dowel rod, the dowel rod kept slipping out of place. I just pulled the dowel out and would worry about it later.

While the panel was curing, I cut some pieces of dowel rod to fit the outer edge of the AC surround. I Gorilla Glued the dowel in place. After I cut the panel into pieces, I positioned the pieces around the AC surround and checked for fit. Once I was happy with the way it was going, I mixed up some resin and mounted the panel pieces to the AC surround. Something to remember here is to lightly sand both sides of the panel - need to remove the wax film and rough it up a little.

Trimmed the edge of the panel and ready to cut the indivdual pieces I need to form the lip:

Forming the inner lip structure:

The last piece:

More of the lip structure in place:

Just needs to cure:

Clamps off:

Can you see the lip?

You may have to use your imagination a little:

One more:


Can you see where I'm going now? As I add more mat and resin to the rest of the AC surround, I will build up the lip area. I will use my dremel to shape the lip and opening so that the trim panel will fit into the lip area - flush with face of the AC surround. There may be an easier way to have done this but it's what I have to work with - both tools and experience. What is cool about this is that I am learning a lot about glass and that's what keeps it interesting. More to come.

Pat

[This message has been edited by katatak (edited 11-20-2009).]