That's the intent, whether it's in the orginal Lambo or possibly in the Pantero or both.

I'll let Dave post any updated info he thinks should go out.

These are door panels from a Diablo kit I have. I made a mold so I could start resizing the panels to fit a stock Fiero, I kinda like their shape.

And I have this dash and center console from the same Diablo. I'm working on either resizing to fit a stock Fiero, or modifying the pod to get a more realistic Pantera dash look.

Both of these are very back burner projects. I've been playing around with them for my own use, only. When they are finished, and if folks like them, I'll have made molds so they would be available.

David Breeze

If it ever stops raining here, I'll take a couple of pics of what we did to the engine bay just before the Lexington Concours show. It's one of the oldest and easiest tricks, but it really made a big difference.

This is really too dark to see very well, but it is the view of the engine bay & vents from outside.

This is what we did. The good 'ol '84/''85 engine vent swap. It really cleaned up the view from outside, and made the initial view of the engine compartment more intrigueing, when you lift the rear clip back. The '84 grill is mounted on the stock hatch hinges, and the torsion rods are removed. This is what we replaced.

This is the "power hump" part of the '85-'88 deck lid. It was installed this way by the designer, and I think it is a clever method. With some cleaning up or original thinking, it could look real nice. This is how the Pantero was shown at Wheatstock.

Blackrams likes the '84/'85 grills so much that we are incorporating this style into his rear hatch. BTW, Blackrams has elected to go without a back-tilting rear hatch, and is also not using the stock Pantera hatch configuration as well. Instead, we are making a cutout something like this.

His rear clip will not tilt. Rather, the stock lid hinges will be used, and a more "Fiero like" rear lid will be created, giving easy access to the trunk space.

The aft section of the Fiero lid is also incorporated into whatever type rear clip configuration you use. Here it is bonded to the tilting rear clip, and when closed you have a weather tight seal.

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Ron
aka: Blackrams

Blackrams has decided not to have a tilt rear clip, as you know. We spent considerable time looking at how the original rear clip was mounted, and have come up with what we feel is a stronger, and easier to assemble mount. It can be used by both tilt and non-tilt rear clips, and can be easily modified for those who have removed the lower part of their trunk. We have the steel for this and hope to show it to you this weekend. The original mount has no problems I can see, except it might be a bit taxing to assemble. I'm looking for something the average guy can assemble in a day or less. The construction manual will detail all variations of mounting we know of.

This shows the aft end of the chassis, with the rear bumper removed. The original mount is a steel strap tackwelded to the rear of the trunk, with a reinforcing bar tacked to the frame. To this strap, hinges are at first bolted, and then welded. The bolts actually go into the interior of the trunk. I wasn't too impressed with that. So what we have is a square steel plate which mounts to the flared ends of the chassis rail, seen in the pic. To this plate, the steel strap is firmly welded. The hinges are welded onto the strap before installation, so bolts thru the trunk are not needed. Once the mount is completed, the stock bumber can be reinstalled, further reinforcing the square plate.

The arrow points to where the hinge line is. BTW, it's located just in-line with a square corner of a plate between the chassis rail and the trunk, so it's easy to find.

So, with the mounting issue resolved, we proceeded to cut and fit steel for the supportive skeleton underneath the rear clip.

The big holdup on fabricating the front clip, in my mind, was the wildshield wiper situation. This shows the stock Fiero location of the wiper posts, and the black trays where Pantera locates the wiper posts. The Fiero posts come out beneath the new skin, so they have to be raised or relocated, somehow.

David Breeze

But a simpler method involves disassembling the posts

and substituting a longer 3/8" bolt to achieve the desired height. The splined end is threaded, and then bolted in place, and the wiper arms have been relocated.

This is the method Blackrams will use.